MTFCA Forum

I have a 1940 Chevy truck that I allowed to sit to long and now the clutch is stuck, This happened last year also but it freed up quick just by warming up the truck and driving it with the clutch pedal pushed in. This time it didn't work. Any ideas on how to get to come loose?. Oh, I'm try to swap it off for a 64 to 68 Mustang for my wife if there is any interest.

You might try loosening the transmission to bellhousing bolts a couple of turns, then holding the pedal down and rocking it or hitting the starter. I think some Chevrolets had the bellhousing bolt heads inside the bellhousing, so that may not be easy to do. If you can access the bolts, loosening them a little then applying torque with the pedal held down will usually break a stuck clutch loose. Another trick is to remove the clutch access pan and wet down the clutch assembly with water, then try the pedal down procedure. If you can reach the pressure plate bolts, loosening each one about 2 turns, then doing the pedal down operations might free it. Be sure to re-tighten the pressure plate bolts evenly. Clutches usually stick due to rust. I have an older Kubota 16 HP diesel tractor, and it came with a wooden block for holding the clutch pedal down when the tractor was stored to prevent it sticking.

That often happens with tractors. I would put it in 3rd with the clutch held down and rock it back and forth. If no luck you could try to start it in 3rd with the back wheels off the ground and with clutch depressed jab the brakes until the clutch breaks loose. Use caution on second method because (obviously) if it drops to the ground don't have anything in front of you! Second method could be risky so really plan it well or just skip it and go with tear down.

I would find a way to store it with clutch pedal depressed after you get it disengaged.

Tim Moore

So far I have tried just warming up the engine, Driving in circles in the front yard and jerking the throttle. I also tried jacking up a back tire and applying brake pressure but that so far has not worked, I'm soaking with WD40. I'm busy this weekend so next week I'm going to try and start it in gear and pull my modern truck down the road with while my wife gives some light braking. The bolt from the clutch assembly to the plate are easy to get at so I might like you said loosen them a couple of turns also. I'm certain it will free up, Its just stuck a little harder than last year. I keep the clutch blocked down with a 2 x 4 on the steering wheel. Next summer I will keep the pedal blocked down. Its interesting, I drove that truck just two months ago to show it to a guy that had a Mustang, The wife didn't like the car so we drove the truck home. That said we have had a lot rain in the last two months.

Adjusting the clutch linkage to push the pressure plate fingers farther might help, too. (If you try this, re-adjust the linkage to the correct setting, if and when the clutch frees up) Adjust all the free play out of the clutch linkage and then do the driving with the pedal held down procedure again.

We used to free them up by holding the clutch down in low gear parking brake engaged and bumping it with the starter. Then we learned if the truck was going to sit for awhile we made a wooden block to keep the clutch pedal depressed never had a stuck clutch again

Is it possible the throw out bearing has failed an is not releasing the pressure plate? If it worked fine 2 months ago and not now , that may be the problem. Les

Failure of the throwout mechanism is a possibility, but it will usually show up by a slack pedal. Once in a while, a problem within the pressure plate can cause drag or failure to disengage. But in this case, it's most likely that moisture has caused the friction disc to bond to the flywheel face.

FYI, The clutch freed up. What I did was to spray it with WD40 and just let it sit with the pedal blocked down. I got into it yesterday and tried to start it in gear and it was free! The next time I let it sit for an extended amount of time I will block that pedal down.

Be sure that there is no abnormal access for water to get into the clutch housing, such as rainwater drips or a lack of a cover, boot, or gasket designed to keep road splash out of the clutch. It's a good idea to drive a vehicle at least ten miles or more any time it is started. More is better. Doing so will allow the engine and transmission and rear axle to reach full operating temperature, which will drive off moisture resulting from normal engine operation and from atmospheric condensation. Running the vehicle on the road for half an hour or more, preferably more, will allow a full warm-up and allow time for the heat to expel moisture from the enclosed spaces in the engine crankcase and driveline, including the clutch assembly. I'd be very cautious about putting any kind of lubricant on the clutch, since it often leads to a grabbing or slipping clutch, and it could have an adverse effect on the throwout bearing and pilot bearing and the driven disc friction damper.

In the summer when its to wet and to hot to drive it I keep it in my pole barn in the back yard. Its good cover but this year we got a couple of storms that dumped over 4 inches of rain in just a couple of hours thus flooding the floor of the pole barn. I suspect that even though the water was only a couple of inches deep in the barn just sitting the damp barn is what caused the issue. Each time we would get a storm like that I would pump out the back yard but it still stays damp for a long time. I think if I still have the truck next season I will bring it up front in my car port. It just wont be as protected form the wind as it would be in the barn.

High moisture is a major contributor to clutch sticking. Drier storage will benefit the entire vehicle. You can prevent clutch sticking by putting the transmission in any gear, then holding the clutch down and bumping the starter for a second or two every couple of weeks that the truck sits. That will break any rust bonding that may be underway. It is not necessary to start the engine, and I would NOT start it unless I was going for a drive of at least ten miles. If the truck is on a level floor, holding the clutch pedal down and rocking the truck with the transmission in gear would give about the same result. The idea is to break up any sticking that may be underway before it gets severe, and to leave the clutch disc and flywheel contact in a different position than it was before. You could also jack up one rear wheel, hold the clutch pedal down, put the transmission in any gear, and spin the rear wheel to exercise the clutch. Personally, I'd try to find time to take it out on the road for half an hour or more once a month. That will benefit the entire vehicle, including the tires, and offer an opportunity to top off with fresh gas. (Preferably non-ethanol) Doing so will keep the brakes, clutch, and parking brake working freely, charge the battery, prevent flat-spotting the tires, keep the fuel system in good order, and drive condensate out of the engine, transmission, gearboxes, and exhaust system. This is especially important in areas where high humidity is prevalent.