Early fittings on a late frame issues.

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ivaldes1
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Early fittings on a late frame issues.

Post by ivaldes1 » Wed Apr 07, 2021 11:00 pm

Hay wagon to Speedster project is a 1926-27 frame with a 1915 theme. Also it's builder has limited knowledge. Questions:

1) Will a Lang's 3640C firewall bracket work ok on a old style wood firewall with a 1926-27 frame without drilling or modifying?
IMG_0202 (1).jpg
2) I assume that the top of a skirt fastens to the Speedster body but with how many and what kind of fastener? Lots of holes of various sizes, what goes in them? See picture. Also some cutouts of unknown function from the previous owner.
IMG_0201 (1).jpg
3) How many and what kind of fastener attaches 1915 front fenders to a frame? Will I have to drill much? See pictures, one of just the frame, the other with the fender. This will have wood motor shelves covering the fender flange. There will be at least 2 hood fasteners per side, big hole or small hole? That leaves 4 more un-accounted for.
IMG_0198.jpg
IMG_0199 (2).jpg


kmatt2
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Re: Early fittings on a late frame issues.

Post by kmatt2 » Thu Apr 08, 2021 2:57 am

You will have to drill the top of the 1926 frame to take the 1915 firewall brackets. The large holes in the splash aprons match the body mount locations on the 1925 and earlier frames. You can mount your Speedster body using the 1926 body mount locations and mount the splash aprons to the Speedster body. Mount the front fender to the fender iron with a stock I bolt, the front hole in the inner pannel should match the radiator mount hole. You will have to drill the 1926 frame top to mount the 1915 style wood hood shelf's. Hopefully the Speedster body will cover up the extra cut out areas of the splash aprons. There will be holes in the 1926 frame that you will not use for your 1915 Speedster.


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Re: Early fittings on a late frame issues.

Post by TXGOAT2 » Thu Apr 08, 2021 9:42 am

The cut-outs look to be poorly done. I'd consider repairing them or replacing those parts, or at the very least, radiusing the square corners. Square cornered holes in sheet metal often lead to cracks, and even if the cut out areas don't show when the car is assembled, they are likely to cause issues with dust or mud and water.

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Rich Eagle
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Re: Early fittings on a late frame issues.

Post by Rich Eagle » Thu Apr 08, 2021 1:11 pm

For the firewall brackets you could make an L shaped bracket that would mount to the 2 holes in the side of the frame It could bend over the top of the frame where the other 2 holes should be. Countersinking for flat head screws could then be used to mount the brackets you have. The only problem is that the firewall holes would be a bit higher.
brakkkit.jpg
I don't like to drill any more holes in the frame.
When did I do that?

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George House
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Re: Early fittings on a late frame issues.

Post by George House » Thu Apr 08, 2021 4:06 pm

All the above advice is correct but more trouble than its worth. Why don’t you just get the correct frame with forged running board brackets from me next time you go to SA or the NB Swap Meet ?
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Re: Early fittings on a late frame issues.

Post by Les Schubert » Thu Apr 08, 2021 4:21 pm

So many things changed on the 26-7 frame!!
The Chanel got bigger. The steering bracket changed dimensions and shape and bolt spacing.


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Re: Early fittings on a late frame issues.

Post by speedytinc » Thu Apr 08, 2021 4:48 pm

You are building a "hot rod" T.
Modification is the name of the game.

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Ed Fuller
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Re: Early fittings on a late frame issues.

Post by Ed Fuller » Thu Apr 08, 2021 5:30 pm

I agree with George. If you are trying to use earlier parts it will be much easier to use a pre 26-27 frame.


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Re: Early fittings on a late frame issues.

Post by speedytinc » Thu Apr 08, 2021 5:46 pm

To use those early brackets, you still need a pre 16 frame or drill holes.
Are you aware of the interference problems using early F/W brackets with an electric start? More modifications.


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Re: Early fittings on a late frame issues.

Post by Allan » Thu Apr 08, 2021 7:14 pm

It would be simpler to use the next type of firewall brackets. They suit the wood firewall and will utilise the existing holes in the side of the frame.

Allan from down under.


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Re: Early fittings on a late frame issues.

Post by schwabd1 » Thu Apr 08, 2021 10:15 pm

"Are you aware of the interference problems using early F/W brackets with an electric start?"


Could you fill me in? I'm using a torpedo hood ..... still a problem?


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Re: Early fittings on a late frame issues.

Post by Allan » Fri Apr 09, 2021 12:46 am

The early firewall brackets that bolt to the top of the frame have to be removed when pulling/replacing the motor. If you go with the next style I suggested, they do not require removal and will use existing frame holes for mounting. Your choice. There may be an interference problem fitting the hood former over the later brackets, so get hold of one first and try it.

Allan from down under.


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Re: Early fittings on a late frame issues.

Post by speedytinc » Fri Apr 09, 2021 8:17 am

The upper left starter mounting screw is behind part of the early style firewall & bracket. Hard to get to. Can be done with allen bolt & ball end allen wrench. No straight shot for a slotted screw. I dont think a torpedo hood changes the issue either way.

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Re: Early fittings on a late frame issues.

Post by DanTreace » Fri Apr 09, 2021 8:44 am

With doing a speedster, mods to the firewall should be fine. So, do the old time trick and cutaway a notch on each side, on the left, for the added starter, make the notch a tad larger to see the top corner mounting screw. Engine pulls made easier too.

IMG_9580.JPG
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speedytinc
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Re: Early fittings on a late frame issues.

Post by speedytinc » Fri Apr 09, 2021 11:51 am

It aint that easy.

1) cutting the notches will allow one to slide a NON STARTER motor forward on the frame AFTER the F/W brackets are removed.
2) The drawing you provide does not accurately show the actual amount of firewall on the inside.
3) The F/W brackets dogleg inward over the top of the inner frame edge. The F/W mounting holes are in line with the inner frame edge. Obscuring that 1 starter screw.
One would have to notch the F/W upper bracket to clear that starter bolt, substantially weakening it along with a lot more of the F/W wood.

2 notes:
1)It is easier to remove the F/W with brackets to R&R a motor in my opinion. Removing from a 15 is fairly simple. From a 14 & earlier,obviously, the windshield has to go too.
2) Were I to put a starter motor engine in an early F/W bracket t, I would consider welding the bracket mounting nuts in the frame. Its a fight to mount those early F/W brackets with a starter already on the motor.

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