Delivery Car Project Build

[Rich Eagle]

The pictures in progress are wonderful. I'm sure in person it is much more impressive. How wonderful the youngsters get a chance to see it. It's something they surely will remember.
Rich

[Tbird]

Well, after some months of planning I’m getting closer to getting the steam bending project rolling
I had to make a crude steam tube… being on the cheap side I sourced secondhand metal gas can and Coleman stove. I used old cabinet doors to hold the steam tubes.
I found an old work table someone was throwing away so I could mount the jig to.

I also had to figure up the spacing of the roof slats so I could make up a spacing jig when I go to fasten them to the top. I opted to do some beading on the roof slats that will give it some nice details. The original delivery car that John Regan has shows that detail. A few more steps will be involved in making them but I think it will be worth it. I’m testing out the jig for shape… really trial and error till I get it right.

[Tbird]

It’s starting to get cold here in IN which means I need to start working ahead when I can to stay focused and keep the end goal in sight. Tonight I started laying out some patterns in poster board for the metal skin. Also figuring out how all the exterior moldings intersect and cover the metal seams.

[Tbird]

[TWrenn]

Looking really good Mike! Man you got way more skill and patience than I've got!!

[Rich P. Bingham]

Beautiful work ! It's an inspiration to see !

[Tbird]

Looking really good Mike! Man you got way more skill and patience than I've got!!

Thanks Tim! My wife still remembers your car at Richmond and always says that the dash on the delivery car better look as good as yours… lol

[Tbird]

Beautiful work ! It's an inspiration to see !

Thanks Rich!

[Allan]

Mike, if the steam bending does as well as my attempt, I wish you luck.

On a New Zealand tour I was given a wonderful visit to see a craftsman at work bending wheel felloes. Rather than steam, he boiled the hickory blanks in a section of roof gutter, fuelled by a wood kindling fire. It was a soft as butter to see. His former was mounted to a tree stump still in the ground. Once the blank was bent, a dipper of cold water was applied and the bent timber clamped in an old rim to hold its shape until it dried.

If your steamer does not work well for you you might give his method a try.

Allan from down under.

[TWrenn]

Looking really good Mike! Man you got way more skill and patience than I've got!!

Thanks Tim! My wife still remembers your car at Richmond and always says that the dash on the delivery car better look as good as yours… lol

THANKS! I appreciate the compliment, and yes I am a bit biased about Clara's dash!

[Dallas Landers]

Looking great. Thanks for photo update. Nice to see the progress and follow step by step.

[Tbird]

Mike, if the steam bending does as well as my attempt, I wish you luck.

On a New Zealand tour I was given a wonderful visit to see a craftsman at work bending wheel felloes. Rather than steam, he boiled the hickory blanks in a section of roof gutter, fuelled by a wood kindling fire. It was a soft as butter to see. His former was mounted to a tree stump still in the ground. Once the blank was bent, a dipper of cold water was applied and the bent timber clamped in an old rim to hold its shape until it dried.

If your steamer does not work well for you you might give his method a try.

Allan from down under.

That sounds very interesting and probably a sight to see!

[Tbird]

Looking great. Thanks for photo update. Nice to see the progress and follow step by step.

Thanks Dallas!

[Allan]

Mike the really interesting bit was the spring steel band used. One end was fixed to the former
The supple blanks were butted up against it. Then an adjustable stop was fixed hard up against the other end of the timber blank.
This meant that the outside of the curve was fixed and the inside was the under compression.. The result was there was no breakout in the outside of the bend, critical for a strong, neat bend.
So simple and effective.


Allan from down under

[jiminbartow]

Are you going to paint a period advertisement on the sides? I have several models of Model T C-cabs with period logos on the sides if you need any ideas. Jim Patrick

[jiminbartow]

[Allan]

Surely this one is more appropriate!

Allan from down under.

[Tbird]

Are you going to paint a period advertisement on the sides? I have several models of Model T C-cabs with period logos on the sides if you need any ideas. Jim Patrick


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Thanks Jim! The striping and ornamentation on some of those is really neat. Thanks for sharing

[Tbird]

Surely this one is more appropriate!20231203_225738.jpg
Allan from down under.

Allan! lol definitely appropriate! My wife actually makes soap on the side and she wants to use it as advertisement for her soap… can’t complain with that.

[jiminbartow]

If you need better closeups of the detail, let me know and I will post them for you. Jim Patrick

[Herb Iffrig]

I just thought I would contribute this to this thread.

[jiminbartow]

Here is another suggestion for a nice looking paint job for your delivery van:

[Tbird]

Here is another suggestion for a nice looking paint job for your delivery van:

Very cool! Thanks
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[Allan]

Using the livery of a real/existing business will require permission/possible fees/specific requirements etc. all of which might be a real pain in the butt.
When I built my 1912 van, I approached a local family owned company for permission to use theor livery. They were only too pleased to oblige. The result was a hand enameled design taken from old packaging, for which they paid. I have been doing promotions/parades ever since.

Allan from down under.

[Tbird]

Making some more progress. Finally got all the sheetmetal for the exterior ordered and cut down to size. Made up some templates and started cutting out the drivers side top piece. I used an air nibbler tool from Harbor Freight to cut out the shape. That tool was the best $70 I spent. It cuts it out so slick and all I needed to do was a little clean up with a small grinder. Overall very pleased with the results.

[michaelb2296]

Looks great!!!!

[Tbird]

Made some more progress today. Cut out the other side top section and cut out both bottom sections as well. I clamped one side in place to get a visual. Next I’ll tackle the metal for the doors.

[Tbird]

Making some more headway. I stripped everything down for painting and staining. I also began metal fitting for the rear doors. Still working out the details for nailing the metal onto the wood frames.

[Tbird]

[Mark Nunn]

Outstanding progress, Mike. It looks like the steel panels on doors don't have flanges on their edges. Is that how Ford made them and how will they attach to wood frames? I'm enjoying following your progress.

[Tbird]

Mark, good question! Yes the panels are nailed in the perimeter of the exterior. There is a half oval trim piece that covers the nails. On the sides it is the same except there is a flange on the lower section that will nail from the bottom. Thanks!

[Tbird]

Was able to get some more details done on the rear doors:
Mounting the rear window frames was quite the job today. Very happy with the results. Next project will be getting the moldings that go around the perimeter of the doors cut, shaped, and drilled for mounting.

[tom_strickling]

Look great. I hope that big C is laminated or it is very likely to break anywhere the grain runs across the piece instead of along the length of a piece.

[Tbird]

Look great. I hope that big C is laminated or it is very likely to break anywhere the grain runs across the piece instead of along the length of a piece.

Thanks Tom! Always good points to remember.

[JTT3]

Very nice work Mike the body is looking great. Tom nice pickup & suggestion on the Big C.
Mike hate to be a Debbie Downer & I know it’s your T but on the drive train the wheels are entirely to small & I don’t see how it would possibly work without steering linkages to the front wheels or a drive line to the rear wheels. Could be wrong. Best my friend you’re really bringing the Vision to a reality.

John

[KWTownsend]

Mike,
Beautiful craftsmanship. Your detailed documentation will be a benefit for all future restorers of delivery cars. Your endeavor is publication worthy.

: ^ )

Keith

[RGould1910]

Did you make the oval window trim? If so Id be interested to know how you did that.

[Tbird]

Very nice work Mike the body is looking great. Tom nice pickup & suggestion on the Big C.
Mike hate to be a Debbie Downer & I know it’s your T but on the drive train the wheels are entirely to small & I don’t see how it would possibly work without steering linkages to the front wheels or a drive line to the rear wheels. Could be wrong. Best my friend you’re really bringing the Vision to a reality.

John

Thanks John! I really appreciate your input on the situation. I may go the cheaper route and just make this into a go kart… lol

[Tbird]

Mike,
Beautiful craftsmanship. Your detailed documentation will be a benefit for all future restorers of delivery cars. Your endeavor is publication worthy.

: ^ )

Keith

Thanks Keith!
Hopefully it will inspire others who have the desire to make and learn something new.

[Tbird]

Did you make the oval window trim? If so Id be interested to know how you did that.

Richard,
Yes I did make the window frames. It was a nightmare trying to find ones. Oval frames are not as popular as they once were. I did find a company in CA that made frames and I asked if they were wood they said yes. I ordered a couple and upon arrival they were MDF… so I made a CAD drawing and cut them out using a CNC machine. They are 11x14 and made to the dimensions of the glass drawing for the delivery car.

[Tbird]

Shot some color today on the underside platform. I went with a very dark red. I’m very happy with the results. It’s a single stage paint from Limco Supreme that I’m using.

[Jerry VanOoteghem]

Shot some color today on the underside platform. I went with a very dark red. I’m very happy with the results. It’s a single stage paint from Limco Supreme that I’m using.
IMG_2548.jpegIMG_2549.jpeg

Happy to see this. I was biting my tongue on the Robin's Egg Blue.

[Tbird]

Shot some color today on the underside platform. I went with a very dark red. I’m very happy with the results. It’s a single stage paint from Limco Supreme that I’m using.
IMG_2548.jpegIMG_2549.jpeg

Happy to see this. I was biting my tongue on the Robin's Egg Blue.

Couldn't agree more!

[Tbird]

Made some more progress. All the metal panels are now fitted and I began working on drilling the holes for the step bolts to pass through the metal for the interior braces. Next I will be drilling several 1/16” holes along the perimeter of the panels for the body nails. Last thing to do before I can permanently mount the panels will be to prime and paint the inside of the panels the red body color.

[johnr]

My question is did you make your dash/firewall. If so could you give me the overall height of the dash.
Ford drawing I have is missing this information.

Thank you

JohnR

[RGould1910]

Most impressive. I really like the look of the interior vertical braces. Its been quite an undertaking.

[Tbird]

My question is did you make your dash/firewall. If so could you give me the overall height of the dash.
Ford drawing I have is missing this information.

Thank you

JohnR

John, I’m using the two piece dash on this project and I making my own dash. I drew it up in CAD using the drawings from The Henry Ford. I do have a repo from one of the vendors I was using just for mock up/measurements. I guess really depending on your year of car would determine which dash your using. The two piece dash changed dimensions when it went to the one piece dash as did the brass windshield going from equal panes two a larger pane on the bottom and smaller pane on the top. The larger pane made up the difference in the dash filler panel. What year/ make is your T?

[Tbird]

Most impressive. I really like the look of the interior vertical braces. Its been quite an undertaking.

Thanks Richard! I really like the look of the wood as well. It definitely gives it a lot of character and warmth. I purposely chose certain sections of maple and ash that had some unique characteristics and grain. It really has been a challenge but a good challenge.

[johnr]

T bird
My T is starting out as a mixture of parts depending on which section your looking at. Kinda of like johnny Cash. The ultimate goal is
a vehicle in the 12 to 14 range.
The grand kids are helping on this project.
They want another hack or light delivery.
What would it take to get a copy of your cad files on your project ?
Also I want to commend you on your craftsmanship.

Johnr

[Tbird]

Starting the tedious process of skinning the body. I’m really liking the look of the stained wood with the carmine red color. Nailed felt on on the pillars and anywhere else that I think might rattle.

[Allan]

Mike, if you haven't already tacked the panels to the rear doors, it would be better to clamp a thin lath of timber over the panel with those same three clamps. This will help to load the panel more evenly against the frame rather than just at the clamping points.

When I built my Chocolate van I used an adhesive when clamping the panels on. When that had cured, the clamps and laths were removed before the nails were driven. I drilled the panel so there was less distortion in the panel and less chance of a miss strike when driving them through the panel. The moulding I used was concave on the back side, so the nails did not need to be pounded flat.

The adhesive I used has now begun to let go, letting the panel vibrate against the frame. More modern auto panel adhesive/sealers should last better.

Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.

[RGould1910]

Really a good idea using something to to dampen rattles between the frame and body panels.. Dont personally have experience but a friend did the same with a Model A sedan to keep the drumming noise down.

[Tbird]

Mike, if you haven't already tacked the panels to the rear doors, it would be better to clamp a thin lath of timber over the panel with those same three clamps. This will help to load the panel more evenly against the frame rather than just at the clamping points.

When I built my Chocolate van I used an adhesive when clamping the panels on. When that had cured, the clamps and laths were removed before the nails were driven. I drilled the panel so there was less distortion in the panel and less chance of a miss strike when driving them through the panel. The moulding I used was concave on the back side, so the nails did not need to be pounded flat.

The adhesive I used has now begun to let go, letting the panel vibrate against the frame. More modern auto panel adhesive/sealers should last better.

Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.

Good idea!

[Tbird]

Have one side on now. Doing a cut and buff on the second side panels.

[South Park Zephyr]

This has been fascinating to watch the progression.
Thank you for sharing your work

Scott

[Tbird]

Back at it again…
Finished nailing the other side on.

[Tbird]

Had to rethink the rear door/windows.
Originally my plan was to use two oval frames one inside and one outside with the glass and metal sandwiched between. I then was able to find a high resolution image of a delivery car with the open doors. The image showed that the metal was pushed in to form an oval flange on the inside. The oval wood frame was then simply screwed onto the metal from the back side.

I tried my hand at hand forming with a buck, but it was a very poor job, so then I made a die using 3/4” plate steel and used my friends hydraulic press. I quickly realized that the die needed to be beveled as the material was being pushed out and ended up cracking in a few areas. Only took about 5 tries to get it dialed in, but the result was fabulous.

[Tbird]

[Tbird]

Starting to fasten all the 1/2 oval moulding on.
It uses three different sizes:
3/4” along the bottoms and sides (vertical pieces)
The center section is 7/8”
The rear door moulding ( not on yet) uses 3/4” for the sides,top and bottom pieces and a 1” piece that goes down the length of the two doors where they meet in the middle. The piece overlaps on the other door to hold it closed.

[Mark Nunn]

Outstanding progress, Mike. I always enjoy seeing your work.

[Tbird]

Was able to make some more progress with the rear doors and moulding. I know it may not seem like much, but getting all the gaps even for the rear doors was important for me. Now that I’m satisfied with the gaps I can finally move onto steam bending the roof slats!

[JTT3]

Mike I was going to wait to offer this but decided to forge forward. Reading all your post and feeling the frustration on things that were trial & error, I want to let you know that after careful consideration I’m willing to let you give me the body once buttoned up & painted. I know that’s a generous offer on my part but at the end what are friends for? I’d even go so far as having you ship it to me and wouldn’t try to insult you by offering to pay the freight. I’ll go ahead and let you eat that too. What are friends for if I can’t do that for you. Ha!

Mike, I’m overwhelmed by your progress, talent & innovation. Your attention to the details and the execution on the build is far far past my ability, even in my dreams!
I can’t wait for the video link of you driving your delivery down the road. Thank you for involving us in this build. The notes & post will be an asset to future hobbyists. John

[Allan]

The top on the 1917 shooting brake I built had the double curve in the roof slats, but the curves were not as extreme as yours. I used 1/4" thick slats of western red cedar over which the canvas cover was fixed. Even if the cover is soaked, it will not damage the cedar.

My curves did not require steam bending. They were screwed down at the front and over the cab they were nailed down. At the back of the cab I screwed them to stop the applied tension from pulling them out.
I don't know if your slats with their deeper curves could be fitted in the same way, but it would cost nothing to explore.

Watching a New Zealander bend wood wheel felloes, I would suggest you do as he did and immerse the slats in boiling water to make them supple. It looks to me to be a more easily managed process than steam bending.

Just a couple of ideas which may, or may not be of use.

Love your work Mike.

Allan from down under.