Checking bearing surfaces
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Topic author - Posts: 117
- Joined: Fri Jan 11, 2019 11:16 pm
- First Name: John
- Last Name: Chady
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1924 Fordor
- Location: Jefferson WI
- Board Member Since: 2016
Checking bearing surfaces
Hey guys, I wanted to replace my pan gasket as it was leaking in a few spots. I figured since I was under there, I may as well pull the connecting rod caps and check the bearing surfaces. I know what Good looks like, problem is, I have no clue if what I'm looking at is Ok or No good. What do you guys think? Is it worth pulling main caps to look at those?
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- Posts: 1707
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 12:23 pm
- First Name: Jeff
- Last Name: Humble
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926 Canadian built coupe, 1924 TT C-cab, survivor 1924 roadster
- Location: Charlevoix, Mi
- MTFCA Number: 28034
- Board Member Since: 2006
Re: Checking bearing surfaces
Were there any shims when you took them off?
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- Posts: 215
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 12:55 pm
- First Name: Walt
- Last Name: Berdan
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: '18 Speedster had 25 touring and 26 coupe
- Location: Bellevue, WA
- MTFCA Number: 16421
Re: Checking bearing surfaces
Looks one cap looks good to me but the rest of this seems rather sad. If it was mine, it would be coming apart and getting freshened up. Time to mic the crank to ensure the journals as straight and round. If the crank is good and if there were shims, it might be possible to use TimeSaver to clean up the surfaces I guess it depends a bit on how much you really expect out of the car. An occasional run for coffee or ice cream requires a lot less than real touring. Somewhere the budget may have an impact as well.
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Topic author - Posts: 117
- Joined: Fri Jan 11, 2019 11:16 pm
- First Name: John
- Last Name: Chady
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1924 Fordor
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- Board Member Since: 2016
Re: Checking bearing surfaces
There were shims on most of the bolts.
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- Posts: 71
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 1:21 pm
- First Name: Bill
- Last Name: Coyle
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 26 Roadster
- Location: Port Clinton, OH
- MTFCI Number: 24067
Re: Checking bearing surfaces
Looks like you made a good decision to check the bearings. The second picture shows the babbitt is worn thru to the steel cap. So that rod needs to come out and be rebabbited or exchanged for one of the correct diameter. I would look at the babbitt on the upper half of the rod bearings as well. The newer good looking cap doesn't appear to have a chamfer at the inside edges to catch and hold oil...
I agree with walber on measuring the crank journals and at least freshening up the engine bearings... so you can be confident driving it. You have a little work ahead of you before the summer driving season. Bill
I agree with walber on measuring the crank journals and at least freshening up the engine bearings... so you can be confident driving it. You have a little work ahead of you before the summer driving season. Bill
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- Posts: 1707
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 12:23 pm
- First Name: Jeff
- Last Name: Humble
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- Location: Charlevoix, Mi
- MTFCA Number: 28034
- Board Member Since: 2006
Re: Checking bearing surfaces
John, I would not pull the main caps at this time, you have seen what you need to see. The rod bearings look tired and it is probably a good indication of the overall health of the engine. If it were mine, I would pull the engine and go through it top to bottom. In earlier times some people kept their model T's running with sawdust in rear ends, rice in the radiator, and leather belts as replacement for rod babbit, although that may work for a time, I would not recommend it. Continued use in its current condition will likely make your crankshaft unserviceable.
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- First Name: DEAN
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Re: Checking bearing surfaces
I disagree your rods look nearly new.
Your second picture shoes an oversized rod fit tight on an undersized journal heat caused the smear.
All of your pictures Indicate the same to me.
Give me a call 319 331 828five.
Your second picture shoes an oversized rod fit tight on an undersized journal heat caused the smear.
All of your pictures Indicate the same to me.
Give me a call 319 331 828five.
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- Posts: 4094
- Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2019 1:39 pm
- First Name: Norman
- Last Name: Kling
- Location: Alpine California
Re: Checking bearing surfaces
What is that blue on the shaft? Unless you were using prussian blue to determine the wear pattern that would be an indication of heat. Heat would occur if the bearing were too tight and/or there was not enough oil. Did the engine knock before you opened it up? If it were mine, I would look at side of the bearing in the rod, and if it looks as bad as the caps, I would for sure replace the babbit. If the upper side looks good, and the crank is not out of round, I might experiment with scraping the caps and re-fitting them. If any steel is exposed on the caps, I would re babbit them for sure.
Norm
Norm
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- First Name: Herman
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Re: Checking bearing surfaces
Top three caps shot. Tin Babbitt.
Bottom cap, Rod, is lead babbitt, must have been replaced by it's self, one time.
The shaft Blue looks like Prussian Blue to me, that was not taken off when fitting. If the shaft got that hot to turn it Blue, all the rods would have melted out.
Normally, the babbitt melts out, and doesn't effect the color of the shaft.
Herm.
Bottom cap, Rod, is lead babbitt, must have been replaced by it's self, one time.
The shaft Blue looks like Prussian Blue to me, that was not taken off when fitting. If the shaft got that hot to turn it Blue, all the rods would have melted out.
Normally, the babbitt melts out, and doesn't effect the color of the shaft.
Herm.
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Re: Checking bearing surfaces
Is it just me, or does the second crank journal photo seem to show a crack running diagonally across the journal surface?