MTFCA Forum

So I started my model T with the starter, drove it to church. When I tried to start it again, nothing, nada, zip. I successfully hand crank started it and drove it home. Battery tested good, all the connections look good. I tried to direct connect it to the starter with jumper cable. Nothing. Is my starter toast? I have had this Model T and starter for 3 years and have not had a problem with it. I have no knowledge of what has been done to it prior to my owning it.

Is a take-apart like this http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/17 ... 1316499922 in my future?

-- IV

If you end up removing the starter, remember you must first remove the starter bendix or you will mess up the mag coils.

Has your starter been rebuilt or repaired since you have had the car? If it was in the car when you bought its probably time for a rebuild.
Parts are readily avaliable for it and it’s not that difficult. There is lots of information about how to do it on the forum. You can take the armature to a starter/generator repair shop and have them check and test the armature. If it checks ok your on the way to repair it.

Very often the post where the cable is connected comes loose inside the starter. There is a copper half circle strap soldered to the windings at each end and a post soldered in the center. That connection sometimes comes loose when you turn the nut to replace the cable. That's the first place I'd look. Also the brushes might be worn out.
Norm

Ignacio
Here is a photo of the starter fault mentioned by Norman Kling.
This is by far the most common failure of Model T starters.
It can be repaired by replacing the terminal bolt with a kit available from Lang's Old Car Parts. The kit has a new terminal bolt and buss bar that is silver soldered and far superior to the original soldered Ford part. Complete instructions are included with this part. The only special tool you will require is a 250 Watt soldering iron.
Ron Patterson

Apologies for this diversion, but I wish to thank Ron for posting this helpful response. Ron has helped me personally with Model T electrical challenges and has shared his knowledge selflessly with the greater Model T community. Ron, I hope you continue to share your knowledge through this Forum. Respectfully, jb

I’ll second the accolades for Ron, a true mentor indeed.

Here you go. The post is loose. The fork at the bottom of the post is clearly not attached. Can I solder it back on? The bake lite or plastic or whatever square retainer thing disintegrated. Unsure what to do about that. How can I tell if my brushes are worn out? They are worn. Also how do you retract the brushes to put the rotor back in?

First step if you want to fix it yourself is to get the DVD, restoring your starter.

All the parts are available.

Repairable for sure - brushes are mucked up and the brush end is sporting the original Babbitt bushing.

Ron Patterson wrote: ↑

Tue Feb 11, 2020 11:52 am

Ignacio
Here is a photo of the starter fault mentioned by Norman Kling.
This is by far the most common failure of Model T starters.
It can be repaired by replacing the terminal bolt with a kit available from Lang's Old Car Parts. The kit has a new terminal bolt and buss bar that is silver soldered and far superior to the original soldered Ford part. Complete instructions are included with this part. The only special tool you will require is a 250 Watt soldering iron.
Ron Patterson

I managed to solder my new bar on with an Oxyacetylene torch and small flame.I’d have rather used an iron, but couldn’t get a hold of one. If you go my route, be careful as you can easily melt the copper or catch any oil on fire, but it can be done with no trouble.

Here is the video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tCRdm6YiinM

No problem. The Bakelite, or plastic insulator is available from one of the many Model T parts suppliers. I’m glad you found the problem. Jim Patrick

While I am waiting for a starter, I wonder what I can cover the starter hole with and just crank start it? -- IV

ivaldes1 wrote: ↑

Fri Feb 14, 2020 11:49 pm

While I am waiting for a starter, I wonder what I can cover the starter hole with and just crank start it? -- IV

Yes, this works fine.

Just make a cover plate out of a piece of 20g steel (or whatever) and fix on with the starter bolts/screws...