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Connecting rod side play
Posted: Tue Feb 18, 2020 10:55 am
by Mel King
Does anyone know what the rod side play should be on a rebuilt engine that has not been run much ? What is it suppose yo be originally? MEL.
Re: Connecting rod side play
Posted: Tue Feb 18, 2020 1:38 pm
by Mustang1964s
Might want to check out Mike Benders youtube videos.
He has one that he installed the connecting rods.
Lot of good information there.
Re: Connecting rod side play
Posted: Tue Feb 18, 2020 3:37 pm
by Joe Bell
Side play varies from crank grinding, a little side play does not hurt anything as long as the rod is straight and in tolerance with the journal, they are made to float in the piston and that way you get more oil in for lubing. Just my thoughts .
Re: Connecting rod side play
Posted: Tue Feb 18, 2020 3:52 pm
by Kohnke Rebabbitting
Mel King wrote: ↑Tue Feb 18, 2020 10:55 am
Does anyone know what the rod side play should be on a rebuilt engine that has not been run much ? What is it suppose yo be originally? MEL.
Rod should be, an 1.500, wide. Side clearance has always varied, from crank, to crank, on Model T's.
At that, side play should should not be under .005, and not over .008. .010, and .012 is getting loose, although, many are, but it still doesn't make it right.
We always cut them to fit the crank, on the engines we built.
Just make sure the rods are in Aliment for, Twist, Bend, and off set. There is a large percentage they are not, or not done we built.
Herm.
Re: Connecting rod side play
Posted: Tue Feb 18, 2020 5:42 pm
by Mel King
The reason I asked is the ones in my 15 have up to 60 tho side to side play on almost new babbitt . MEL
Re: Connecting rod side play
Posted: Tue Feb 18, 2020 9:22 pm
by Joe Bell
There is a std. size the crank is original but with crank grinding and spot grinding the radius they tend to grow, if your rods where std. width and your crank has been reground then you have some thing wider now, as Herm said as long as they are straight and not bent you are good to go.
Re: Connecting rod side play
Posted: Tue Feb 18, 2020 10:23 pm
by RichardG
ON THE MODEL T THE ROD IS BOLTED TIGHT TO THE WRIST PIN AND THE PIN IS SNUG IN THE PISTON BOSS,THEREFOR EXCESS SIDE DRIFT CAN BE CAUSED BY ANY OF THOSE POINTS THAT HAVE BECOME WORN, WE USED TO CALL IT PISTON SLAP, THE-- T-- ENGINE NOT BEING THE QUIET KIND, YOU CANT HEAR THIS, IF YOU HAVE THE IRON PISTONS THEY WILL SHRINK WHEN COLD, GIVING SIDE PLAY NOT MUCH MIND YOU AND UNTIL THE PISTON HEATS TO EXPAND TO SIZE, THIS MOVEMENT WILL TAKE PLACE, THE CRANK END OF THE ROD IS LETS SAY FIVE INCH FROM THE WRIST PIN, ANY SIDE MOVEMENT OF THE PISTON OR WORN PARTS WILL INCREASE THE DRIFT, THE BABBITT ON ETHER SIDE OF THE ROD WILL BECOME NARROW DUE TO THIS PRESSURE IN THE MOVEMENT RUBBING ON THE SIDES THE CRANK JURNIL, UP AND DOWN, IN OTHER WORDS THE ROD ON DOWN PRESSURE IS FORCED TO ONE SIDE AND ON THE UP MOVEMENT ITS FORCED IN THE OTHER DIRECTION. 60 THOW IS A BIT MUCH, THIS COULD BE CORRECTED SOME WHAT BY ADJUSTING THE RODS, IF YOU HAVE SHIMS, THE JOB WILL BE FAIRLY EASY, MY TEST IS A TINY BIT OF TOILET PAPER ,WHEN YOU FINNISH THE ADJUSTMENT PLACE THIS PAPER BETWEEN THE CAP AND CRANK, IF THIS LOCKS THE MOVEMENT, [DON;T PRY TOO HARD] YOUR OIL CLEARANCE IS FINE. HOPE THIS HELPS. GOOD LUCK.
Re: Connecting rod side play
Posted: Wed Feb 19, 2020 3:56 pm
by Kohnke Rebabbitting
Richard G wrote: ↑Tue Feb 18, 2020 10:23 pm
ON THE MODEL T THE ROD IS BOLTED TIGHT TO THE WRIST PIN AND THE PIN IS SNUG IN THE PISTON BOSS,THEREFOR EXCESS SIDE DRIFT CAN BE CAUSED BY ANY OF THOSE POINTS THAT HAVE BECOME WORN, WE USED TO CALL IT PISTON SLAP, THE-- T-- ENGINE NOT BEING THE QUIET KIND, YOU CANT HEAR THIS, IF YOU HAVE THE IRON PISTONS THEY WILL SHRINK WHEN COLD, GIVING SIDE PLAY NOT MUCH MIND YOU AND UNTIL THE PISTON HEATS TO EXPAND TO SIZE, THIS MOVEMENT WILL TAKE PLACE, THE CRANK END OF THE ROD IS LETS SAY FIVE INCH FROM THE WRIST PIN, ANY SIDE MOVEMENT OF THE PISTON OR WORN PARTS WILL INCREASE THE DRIFT, THE BABBITT ON ETHER SIDE OF THE ROD WILL BECOME NARROW DUE TO THIS PRESSURE IN THE MOVEMENT RUBBING ON THE SIDES THE CRANK JURNIL, UP AND DOWN, IN OTHER WORDS THE ROD ON DOWN PRESSURE IS FORCED TO ONE SIDE AND ON THE UP MOVEMENT ITS FORCED IN THE OTHER DIRECTION. 60 THOW IS A BIT MUCH, THIS COULD BE CORRECTED SOME WHAT BY ADJUSTING THE RODS, IF YOU HAVE SHIMS, THE JOB WILL BE FAIRLY EASY, MY TEST IS A TINY BIT OF TOILET PAPER ,WHEN YOU FINNISH THE ADJUSTMENT PLACE THIS PAPER BETWEEN THE CAP AND CRANK, IF THIS LOCKS THE MOVEMENT, [DON;T PRY TOO HARD] YOUR OIL CLEARANCE IS FINE. HOPE THIS HELPS. GOOD LUCK.
Warning!!!! When using the Toilet Paper method," DO NOT REUSE THAT PRODUCT " for what it was originally intended, as now with the oil impregnation, it may have a tendency to leave an oil slick, or streak, and slide past the intended Target.
Herm.
Re: Connecting rod side play
Posted: Wed Feb 19, 2020 4:00 pm
by Scott_Conger
Herm
that is too funny
Re: Connecting rod side play
Posted: Thu Feb 20, 2020 12:33 pm
by TWrenn
Pissing my pants laughing at that one Herm!
Sometimes we need a good shot of humor here!
Re: Connecting rod side play
Posted: Thu Feb 20, 2020 12:56 pm
by Mel King
Whoops! There it goes!
Re: Connecting rod side play
Posted: Fri Feb 21, 2020 10:14 am
by Mel King
Thanks for all the advice . MEL.
Re: Connecting rod side play
Posted: Fri Feb 21, 2020 10:40 am
by Dallas Landers
Only use "new" TP for this. You dont want that $h;# in the bearings.
Re: Connecting rod side play
Posted: Fri Feb 21, 2020 10:40 am
by Dallas Landers
Only use "new" TP for this. You dont want that $h;# in the bearings.