MTFCA Forum

I'm swapping the Kingston that was on the car when I got it, for a rebuilt NH I bought from the classifieds here - I noticed while installing that the Kingston choke spring holds the butterfly open, and the NH spring holds the butterfly closed -- I'm assuming the NH spring is installed incorrectly, but figured I'd ask here before trying to change it.

oops - I should've specified - this is for my '23 center door. Trying to hook up all the linkages as original - mixture adjustment from inside the car, choke from inside the car, and choke from the front of the car

Yep - back asswards !

Really not sure how that’s possible if it’s a vendor spring, can’t imagine getting the hook through the set hole and bending the straight part of the spring around the post. Just rebuilt an NH last week including removing the brass plugs to clean the passage ways the tapping for Allen screws & replacing the spring. Unless the made their own spring with .031 spring wire can’t picture that happening but I guess anythings possible.

pictures of my spring, which appears distorted

Correct Spring
like you said...distorted

got it ! easy fix. Thanks gang !

next question - does this look right for the choke rod orientation, before I bend the ends to keep them from falling off, and before I mount the bell crank

Usually having the bend horizontal allows the choke wire to the radiator to be removed more easy by just bending the wire up river, that allows the little jog to pull out of the lever. Same with the bell crank pull wire.

Just be sure your wire set won't interfere with each other and lock up on pull. They need to be independent

I like your adjusted spring placement but my experience is the part of the spring in the arms needs to be proud of the hole and bent over, just my 2 cents. Dan is the man, nice tip to pass on with the choke wire but more impressed with steel fuel line. I don’t know how many copper tubes I see being used for fuel lines.

GRRRRRRR.....

new problem...

turned on the gas, bowl drain leaks like crazy.

I bought this carb from the classifieds here, (to FIX issues, not CREATE them !) "rebuilt", from a "reputable" vendor. Choke installed incorrectly, bowl drain leaking... what next ?

Hey don’t get frustrated it’s probably just a stuck fuel cutoff needle. Take a drive extension for your ratchet wrench and tap on the top of the carb base closest to the engine where the bowl meets the body. Should stop it from overflowing. You may also need to adjust the tab on the float.
Be patient you’ll get it done. Oh you can adjust the tab to 1/4 inch to 5/16 inch that’s the distance from the top of the float to the bottom of the base. The fuel level is correctly set as the carburetor comes from the factory, However, should it become necessary at any time to check up on the fuel level. the sketch below will be of assistance. (1/4” is the distance to float, not the fuel level.)
To secure the correct fuel level, the float lever should be bent so the distance from upper edge of float to under machined edge of mixer-chamber is 1⁄4 to 5/16” as shown in the drawing above. For metal floats, distance should be 3/16 to 1/4 inch.

Going from dead dry, to filled up, there are some instances where the lifting lever on the float will try to jam the float valve against the side of the valve body. The geometry of these things is primitive and it is really designed to work smoothly in a very limited range. Like John said, a light "whack" of vibration releases this little bit of stiction and you should be good from here on out. As far as bending things, I really would not suggest that, and though it is frustrating, If you bought this from the fellow who rebuilt it, then let your supplier deal with this. I am sure they will be happy to if given the chance. If it was bought from someone who bought it with other items and was "told" that it was rebuilt, then you may not have recourse. Still, I'd give that a try first...at least make a phone call or otherwise reach out to them.

pulled the bowl off this morning. The needle was indeed stuck. put all back together, it appears it's leaking around the gasket area between the bowl and the drain valve. PM'd the seller.

Either the bowl drain needs a smidge more wrench OR the float level is set too high.

well, the float isn't too high -- see pic.
also notice the massive dent
the rim around the main jet, where the bowl would sit - is also suspect - notice the sharp edge on one side.

I've included a picture of the float, and the rim around the main jet, out of my junk carb for reference

This would be funny if it was given to you for free, but I'm sure you're not laughing.

If the person you bought it from is the one who rebuilt it, then return it for as much of a refund as you can wrangle.

If they claim that's how THEY got it and just passed it on as "I was told it was rebuilt", then you likely own this, and you know who's on the "do not buy from" list now.

My list is short, but it does exist.

And finally, realizing you are new to the hobby very recently, and likely have little exposure to some of the wonderful suppliers to the hobby, please do not let this unpleasant experience color your view of the hobby, the participants, or the suppliers. In the future, however, being new to it, you may wish to solicit recommendations regarding particular parts, parts suppliers, or services. Folks will jump to help you and it will be based on GOOD experiences that they've had. Please try to return this thing.

thanks Scott !

I originally bought this carb to put on a '26 engine and trans on a stand. Then I bought my center door, which is drivable. It came with a Kingston L4 which runs fine, but has a thumbscrew on top for mixture adjustment. I want all the proper linkages hooked up, so I figured since the NH in question has the two - hole needle for the rod through the firewall, that I'd swap the carbs and run the NH on the car, and the Kingston on the stand.

guess not.

I can buy the needle with the two hole bracket for the kingston, but I still want a second carb, for the engine on the stand

Who is a reputable rebuilt carburetor supplier, or carb rebuilder ? I don't want to buy cores sight - unseen to rebuild myself. Not that I'm scared of rebuilding - I'm scared of getting junk. hmmmmm....

I figured buying a rebuilt from here would be the safe bet.