MTFCA Forum

As a preview, this is a survivor 26 roadster that has been much hacked upon that I’m trying to resurrect as a roadster pickup. Bottom of cowl and cab patch panels have been welded in. I have found evidence a previous owner also welded in new front cowl supports (the triangular uprights down by driver/passenger outside feet) on the body subframe and think this might be part of my problem now. I have bolted the body down with the body wood pieces in place in front of the seat pan, under the seat, and at the back spring perch. So now I’m attempting to fit doors. The drivers side seems close and needs only a little tweaking to latch, probably in the hinge area. The passenger side is WAY off! It almost seems the body subframe needs to be cut/bent and re-welded to make the door opening correct.

Here’s a pic of the front body mounts, are these supposed to have a block between them before bolting up? Here’s a shot of the passenger door...yikes...
Hmmm, sorry these show up turned 90°....

Here’s the body subframe where the weld occurred replacing the cowl support..
Ideas? Opinions?

I would assume so
'26-'27 Coupe and Roadster hardwood body block set. Mounts body to frame. 10 piece set.
https://www.modeltford.com/item/3600B.aspx

The front body mounts do not have a wood block.

That’s what I thought, so pulling/bolting that mounting spot together just pulls the cowl down even more and opens the door gap even farther.....

If the body patch panels were welded in without careful attension to door fit and frame mounting location, the you may have to do surgery to make it right. That door is way out and like you say will get worse when bolted to the frame.
I chased door fit problems on my 26 roadster and used shims to make it work with a bent frame. I just replaced the frame and doors seem to fit well with no shims. Please keep us posted on progress.

By frame replacement, I assume (or hope!) you're talking about body subframe? This was a first test fitting and I reckon I need to make sure the wood blocks sit down tight against the chassis when the body bolts are tight in the mounting ear. And I guess I can check the gaps where the wood blocks sit on the chassis frame and see if that gap matches the front mount gap? Should that space be equal?

Did you check the chassis frame first that it is straight?

I did not, and probably should, this is a pretty hacked on car....

Just a view point,

I take nothing for granted by another as it has put me in bad situations such as this. I always go back, level the frame on jack stands, shims etc. Then X the frame dimensions. Now set the body with appropriate blocks/mounts. Cut prior welds by others to get it into proper fit. Weld back as required.

Hope this Helps!,

Hank

Yup....it’s apparent the “repaired” body subframe side is the most out of whack. The drivers side is pretty good as this pict shows, this is just a shim away from a nice closing door. I still have the issue of those front mounts being 1/4-1/2” inch apart, I imagine I can always shim that spot as well if body fitment works elsewhere. Maybe an elevated body at that point makes for a hood fitment issue?

Thanks folks! Ideas are always welcome...

Rob, you are correct. The hood will not fit right. As Hank said, make sure the frame is straight and square. Then go from there. Hopefully your frame is straight and then its just dealing with the body.

Frame check turned out OK with check measurement methods I found on the board here. One other question, the body blocks DO need to sit right on the chassis frame, right? After tightening the body bolts down, the wood still sits about 1/8' above the chassis frame top, so I reckon some sanding is in order around the chassis frame mounting ear?

Asking this question again in this same thread, hopefully folks will read down to here. Here’s a few picts of the new body blocks under the body subframe, showing how high the body frame sits above the chassis. Should these blocks be sanded down to close this gap? Should the blocks actually be sitting on the chassis as well as the chassis mounting ears? I guess it shouldn’t sit down far enough to have the body frame member touching the running board bracket, so the block should hold it up proud of that?
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Sometimes sanding down your blocks causes other problems such as the hood/firewall/radiator etc not fitting correctly. Instead use plastic horse shims that are used in commercial doors. You can buy them at the major box retailers. Will make things align better anyway, you can adjust where need be for perfect body alignment.

Hope this Helps,

Hank

Just wondering if there was a “too high” point for body to be above the chassis because of block thickness....