MTFCA Forum

I need to store some restored painted model T parts without damaging the new finish. These are rattle can enamel painted moldings, etc that are hanging and cluttering my limited heated area work space. I plan to use polyethylene bubble wrap and place wrapped parts in cardboard cartons and store the cartons in unheated spaces. Anyone see problems with this, will the polyethylene react with the new but cured finish over time? Alternative suggestions? thanks, jb

If you are worried about that I wonder if they were wrapped in wax paper too. That might help things from sticking. I really don't know if that is a good idea, it's just a suggestion.

Thanks, Herb, I had considered that too, maybe others will confirm its use. Stay safe, thanks, jb

Yes, to what Herb just stated!

Hank

I’ve had good luck with hanging sandblasted and rattle can painted parts on a wire on a finish nail up high on a rafter or post. No rust and it’s not outta sight/outta mind Covered in bubble wrap in a cardboard box. FWIW

I'm not sure about wrapping them but agree with what George says. Also, I hope you sealed the back side of the parts. Rust can come from inside as well as outside. Especially in damp or humid conditions. Many years ago I lived about 30 miles inland from the Pacific Ocean and had some bare Model A parts stored inside the garage. They did not rust, however we moved down within 2 miles from the beach and the same parts stored inside the garage rusted. Not only was there more fog and dampness in the air but it actually had some salt in it. A neighbor's car had been in an accident and had a new top welded on it. The body work looked very good and the outside was all painted. However, the top rusted around the weld from the inside and ruined the top of the car.
Norm

I hang my painted parts like George with great success. Some parts for an airplane I'm building were stored that way for years without problems except maybe a little dust. I think they cure better in the open air.

I am doing a restoration of a non Ford car and am in the 4th year of the project. After allowing the parts to air cure for a week after painting I wrapped them in bubble wrap and stored them in boxes in my storage space. Four years later I am now in the process of unpacking those parts and everything is fine.

Thanks, everyone. Must be a bunch of people hunkering down given the level of response to this mundane query. Stay safe, everybody. jb

I would be leery of bubble wrap to protect painted parts. In storing model trains, it has been found to leave marks on the painted surfaces of the trains.

David

Same here, wrapped enamel painted parts and when un-wrapped could see round 'bubbles' on the shiny paint.

Think the best is to really let the painted parts cure fully, degassing, for enamel would be a couple of weeks IMO. Then wrap in butcher paper, then some bubble for outer protection. Once laid the kids round wading pool donut on a hood, only let it there for 1/2 day. Yep, the plastic float left its mark in the paint, had to rub the shadow out.

I'm with David D. and Dan T. on the use of bubble wrap. I had some exhaust collector parts (not a T) Jet-Hot coated a couple of years ago. Jet-Hot is sorta like powder coating only for very high temperature operation. When I picked the parts up the pieces each one beautifully wrapped in bubble wrap.

The lady at the counter asked me if I was going to install them right away or store them for a while. Told her I needed to store them for a while. She said to unwrap them as soon as I got home and remove them from the bubble wrap. Her reason was that the bubble wrap would leave marks on the finish.

Now, this finish is cured at a very high temperature; higher even than powder coating. If the bubble wrap leaves marks on a heat cured finish, it's a cinch that you are taking your chances with any room temperature cured enamel.

Dick