Intake manifold leak
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Topic author - Posts: 408
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 10:43 am
- First Name: Art
- Last Name: Ebeling
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1911 touring 14 runabout
- Location: Hillsboro IL
- MTFCA Number: 50718
Intake manifold leak
Yesterday was a big day here at Artland. I got the 11 to start and run. However, it runs pretty rough and shorting out the number three and four cylinders does not make much difference. I determined I have an intake manifold leak by spraying brake clean at the rear manifold to block port and slowing or stalling the engine. I have looked thru some old posts that have links to recommended gaskets but the links no longer work. I used the original style gland rings and copper rings and the copper rings appear to be crushed all around and the manifold seated. What gaskets do you recommend? What about the one piece solid copper gland ring and gasket from Snyder's or the three in one style like on a Model A? Thanks, Art
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- Posts: 1069
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 12:18 pm
- First Name: John
- Last Name: Warren
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 14 Roadster, 25 Pickup , 26 Canadian Touring , and a 24-28 TA race car
- Location: Henderson, Nevada
Re: Intake manifold leak
I like the gland and copper rings the best , It probably needs adjusting or just tightening. Sometimes you can just give them a wrap with a hammer and tighten them a little more to fix this type of problem. Also I use silicone to hold all the pieces in place and to help seal things while assembling. The flat ones work but without the glands there could be an alignment problem. Good luck!
24-28 TA race car, 26 Canadian touring, 25 Roadster pickup, 14 Roadster, and 11AB Maxwell runabout
Keep it simple and keep a good junk pile if you want to invent something
Keep it simple and keep a good junk pile if you want to invent something
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- First Name: Val
- Last Name: Soupios
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: '10 touring, '12 touring, '13 hack, '14 runabout, '14 touring, '14 speedster, '22 centerdoor, '27 touring
- Location: Jupiter Florida
Re: Intake manifold leak
I ran into an issue like that a few years ago. I had purchased new rings and glands and it turned out that the rings were keeping the manifold from crushing the glands. I don't know if it was because the rings were too wide or that the depressions in the block and/or the manifold that the rings set in were not deep enough but simply grinding down the end edge of the rings solved the problem.
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- First Name: Adam
- Last Name: Doleshal
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: ‘13 Touring, ‘24 Touring, ‘25 TT dump truck, ‘26 Tudor, ‘20 Theiman harvester T powerplant, ‘20 T Staude tractor
- Location: Wisconsin
- MTFCA Number: 23809
- MTFCI Number: 1
- Board Member Since: 2000
Re: Intake manifold leak
Generally, spraying anything or even just dripping a little gasoline or anything similarly volatile around the rear intake port usually leads to a mis-diagnosis. The vapor tends to get sucked in by the carb and significantly changes the idle speed even if there is no leak at the manifold to block connection. I like to soak the connection with a small amount of mineral spirits. If there is a leak, the raw solvent will get sucked in and you will notice a change at idle but the vapor is not as volatile and won’t cause as much of a change unless you use way too much.
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- Joined: Sat Jan 05, 2019 1:57 pm
- First Name: Mark
- Last Name: Gregush
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1925 cutdown PU, 1920 Dodge touring, 1948 F2 Ford flat head 6 pickup 3 speed
- Location: Portland Or
- MTFCA Number: 52564
- Board Member Since: 1999
Re: Intake manifold leak
Tighten them up a bit more, maybe. Did you remember the gasket between the carb and manifold?
I know the voices aren't real but damn they have some good ideas!
1925 Cut down pickup
1920 Dodge touring
1948 Ford F2 pickup
1925 Cut down pickup
1920 Dodge touring
1948 Ford F2 pickup
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- First Name: Dave
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- Board Member Since: 2018
Re: Intake manifold leak
Also make sure it is square to the block. You can kinda see underneath with a mirror...
Warm it up a little and then retighten them.
Propane works as a leak test without getting into the carb as easy.
Warm it up a little and then retighten them.
Propane works as a leak test without getting into the carb as easy.
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- Posts: 4095
- Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2019 1:39 pm
- First Name: Norman
- Last Name: Kling
- Location: Alpine California
Re: Intake manifold leak
Several possibilities:
1. The bolt is bottomed out before crushing the gasket. Try removing the bolt and then remove the keeper and thread the bolt back in and measure the distance from the block to the head of the block. Or if you have studs, the nut might bottom out before crushing the gasket. Put the keeper on a flat surface and measure the distance between the flat surface where the keeper pushes on the manifolds and where the head of the bolt might be when in place. That should be greater than the distance between the head of the bolt and the block. If so, grind some off the bolt and the problem should be solved. Note, different style keepers, so you will need to make this measurement yourself.
2. The block has been machined and the distance for the glands to go into the block has decreased. You need to measure both the manifold and the block and possibly grind off a bit from the glands to make them fit.
3. The surface is so eroded that it is impossible to get the rings to seal. You might be able to get the type of flat gaskets to work, especially those which have crush seals around the holes. Last fix would require machining the edge of the block, or maybe even welding onto the block to fill in and then machine. That would take a lot of work and need to pull the engine.
Norm
1. The bolt is bottomed out before crushing the gasket. Try removing the bolt and then remove the keeper and thread the bolt back in and measure the distance from the block to the head of the block. Or if you have studs, the nut might bottom out before crushing the gasket. Put the keeper on a flat surface and measure the distance between the flat surface where the keeper pushes on the manifolds and where the head of the bolt might be when in place. That should be greater than the distance between the head of the bolt and the block. If so, grind some off the bolt and the problem should be solved. Note, different style keepers, so you will need to make this measurement yourself.
2. The block has been machined and the distance for the glands to go into the block has decreased. You need to measure both the manifold and the block and possibly grind off a bit from the glands to make them fit.
3. The surface is so eroded that it is impossible to get the rings to seal. You might be able to get the type of flat gaskets to work, especially those which have crush seals around the holes. Last fix would require machining the edge of the block, or maybe even welding onto the block to fill in and then machine. That would take a lot of work and need to pull the engine.
Norm
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- First Name: Scott
- Last Name: Conger
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: '13, '15, '19, '23
- Location: Clark, WY
- Board Member Since: 2005
Re: Intake manifold leak
#3 above can be augmented by a very slight schmeer of high-temp silicone sealant on the engine side of the copper gasket. I would guess somewhere near 10+% of all old T motors could benefit from this, though probably less than 1% actually get treated with it. Poor running seems to be almost a bragging point for some folks, feeling like they are motoring like "back in the day". Nothing could be further from the truth.
Good luck. You'll whip it.
Good luck. You'll whip it.
Scott Conger
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured