BOLT CHART version 2

[A Whiteman]

Please see below version 2.0 of the Bolt chart.
This was started by members in Montana I think and updated by myself over the last few days.

THIS IS A DRAFT! READ BELOW PLEASE

COVERAGE

a) MAIN bolts (with hex or carriage heads), studs and machine screws (bolts with slotted or domed heads).
b) Excludes some body and accessory (for example generator/starter) small items.
c) Excludes parts with threads on them (such as spring shackles or perches)
d) Does not include NUTS - that was getting a bit too complex for me....
e) Sources used are Parts Lists from 1911 to 1927, Mac's Catalogue, Snyders' Catalogue and period adverts from suppliers - cross checked until my eyes got cross eyed

While the original authors and I have done our best I would suggest that they and myself may have made errors or typed wrong details, so please be kind and let me know but remember it is rather confusing to keep the 3/8's in a straight row !

YOUR HELP PLEASE

I would like to ask you to look it over and give me feedback:

1) errors - with correct values and reference if possible
2) missing items - bolts you know of but not on the list
3) confirm, provide or correct data in YELLOW cells please. I just don't have this but some would be easy to get I hope.

NEXT STEPS

When I have sufficient feedback I will arrange a version "2.1"
I will check with the ADMIN and see if we can park the "2.1" somewhere like the gallery maybe or a "new" technical section, or maybe the Encyclopaedia section? - what are your suggestions?
I plan to post PDF versions (A3 format) and an Excel version that you can search/ sort/ filter as required.

Following that I plan to blend the chart with the Ford of Canada Spanner chart posted elsewhere. At the moment another member is scanning the original spanner chart in high res which will allow better detail on numbers. This will also give added info of bolt head spanner size and location on the car.
It will not, however, cover all the bolts on the chart but will go a long way

Thanks in advance for your help.

Cheers,
Adrian


Sorted by area:

Bolts, Studs and Machine Screws v2_0 - sorted by Area.pdf

(613.51 KiB) Downloaded 216 times

Same chart, this time sorted by part number:

Bolts, Studs and Machine Screws v2_0 - sorted by Part Number.pdf

(613.14 KiB) Downloaded 159 times

[jab35]

Thanks, Adrian

2584 and 2584B were both 16 TPI

[Luxford]

The thread sizes can be shrunk down to a small list of the sizes.
Years ago I was given a set of taps and dies by some Model T guys while I was in the USA after they had stayed with my wife and myself when they visited Australia. I had planned to buy a set when there from a large engineering company but they got there first. Attached was a list of what they were for.

May be there are more but so far I have always had the one needed to clean up any poor threads. I made a box which they now live in.
No hub cap thread tap or die was available, though now it is possible to get a die to clean up the hub. Never have found oneof the tools available at the time for the Model T.

[Don D]

To add to Peter's work I have typed the Tap & Die document into an MS Excel Spreadsheet to make it more easily read and future updated as needed.

Stay safe and wash your hands,
Dom

Model T Ford Taps and Dies Chart.xlsx

(10.08 KiB) Downloaded 168 times

[Steve Jelf]

I believe the best tool for hub threads is the Stevens 181. Currently available thread chasers have to be screwed on from the outside, which is typically where the threads are most boogered up. With the Stevens tool you can start where the threads are good and work your way out. I don't know of a reproduction commercially available, but Andre Valkenaers posted pictures of a very nice one he made himself.


Here's an original that was on eBay.

[CudaMan]

This type of commercially available thread chasing tool can clean threads without having to be screwed in from the top, and it has several different dies to allow chasing of a variety of thread sizes. I have one and it works well.


https://www.tooltopia.com/otc-tools-740 ... gKDYPD_BwE

[jab35]

Peter's comment regarding Bendix cap screws p/n 5059, and FH brass magnet clamp machine screws p/n 3278 being 1/4-24 should have a footnote. Originally, 3278 was 14-24, new ring gears are 1/4-24, vendors offer both bolt types, they are not interchangeable.

Bendix cap screws are 14-24, unless hogshead threads have been 'modified/re-taped' to 1/4-24. Respectfully, jb

[Allan]

I believe Jack Putnam reproduced some Stevens T 181 tools. Still not cheap, but far better than the prices paid on Ebay for a couple of them. I bought my original on spec going on the T181 number and the Stevens branding. I thought it had to be something to do with T's.

Allan from down under.

[Don D]

FYI, I spoke with Jack yesterday about another subject. He mentioned he sold all of these tools and was not going to make more due to the extensive process required to do them right and the loss he took on them. His wife is having health issues so I wanted to save him from the need to reply to multiple inquiries looking for them at this time. Please keep Marilyn and Jack in your prayers.

Dom

[A Whiteman]

Hi all. Trust you are well. Any further info out there? Don't be shy!

Question - what is the difference between 14-24 and 1/4" 24 bolts (size wise)? That was raised regarding Bendix cover and magneto bolts.

They are not the same, but close. #14 gauge works our at 15/64" while 1/4 is 16/64"

[DanTreace]

The Bendix cover machine screw is an obsoleted thread size. ASME #14 - 24 thread.

Here is the Ford print. The vendors do still get these made today, and are a must have to do the job right. Some use a metric size screw but the correct thread is best. Would hate to re-thread a hogshead, unless the old holes are so messed up. Even this would think of some way to mark the hogshead or at least the Bendix cover of the size threads made in the hogshead at the starter opening.

1068.jpg (43.18 KiB) Viewed 3627 times

The magnet screws are made in modern 1/4" size thread ONLY because of the mistake made years ago with reproduction ring gears of today, the ring gears are made of the wrong size threads by mistake, so a new ring gear needs modern 1/4" dia. brass screws.