New guy here

Discuss all things Model T related.
Forum rules
If you need help logging in, or have question about how something works, use the Support forum located here Support Forum
Complete set of Forum Rules Forum Rules

Topic author
Wags70ss
Posts: 12
Joined: Tue Apr 07, 2020 9:36 pm
First Name: Dave
Last Name: wagner
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: T14711755GA
Location: Kansas City Missouri

New guy here

Post by Wags70ss » Wed Apr 08, 2020 10:26 am

Hello everyone. My name is Dave & I'm from the Kansas City Missouri area. I just bought a model T & I know absolutely nothing about them! :shock: The title says it's a 1927. I'll post pictures of it here and maybe you guys can tell me all about it. In particular, I'd like to know what carburetor it has, and ignition coils as well. If you could give me some ideas about the value, that'd be great. Owner said it runs, has an older restoration with poor paint work. He said he hasn't driven it because it has bad tires. Tell me what you think!
Attachments
new camera photos 1994.jpg
new camera photos 1995.jpg
new camera photos 1991.jpg
new camera photos 1992.jpg
new camera photos 1987.jpg


Topic author
Wags70ss
Posts: 12
Joined: Tue Apr 07, 2020 9:36 pm
First Name: Dave
Last Name: wagner
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: T14711755GA
Location: Kansas City Missouri

Re: New guy here

Post by Wags70ss » Wed Apr 08, 2020 10:30 am

More pictures
Attachments
new camera photos 1988.jpg
new camera photos 2064.jpg
new camera photos 2065.jpg
new camera photos 2067.jpg
800px-Ford_model_t_suspension.triddle.jpg


Topic author
Wags70ss
Posts: 12
Joined: Tue Apr 07, 2020 9:36 pm
First Name: Dave
Last Name: wagner
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: T14711755GA
Location: Kansas City Missouri

Re: New guy here

Post by Wags70ss » Wed Apr 08, 2020 10:32 am

A few more
Attachments
new camera photos 2060.jpg
new camera photos 2061.jpg
new camera photos 2062.jpg
new camera photos 2062.jpg
new camera photos 2063.jpg


Topic author
Wags70ss
Posts: 12
Joined: Tue Apr 07, 2020 9:36 pm
First Name: Dave
Last Name: wagner
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: T14711755GA
Location: Kansas City Missouri

Re: New guy here

Post by Wags70ss » Wed Apr 08, 2020 10:34 am

A few more
Attachments
new camera photos 1998.jpg
new camera photos 1993.jpg
new camera photos 1991.jpg
new camera photos 1987.jpg


Topic author
Wags70ss
Posts: 12
Joined: Tue Apr 07, 2020 9:36 pm
First Name: Dave
Last Name: wagner
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: T14711755GA
Location: Kansas City Missouri

Re: New guy here

Post by Wags70ss » Wed Apr 08, 2020 10:36 am

Here's the title
Attachments
new camera photos 2066.jpg
new camera photos 1996.jpg
Ttitlefront.jpg


Topic author
Wags70ss
Posts: 12
Joined: Tue Apr 07, 2020 9:36 pm
First Name: Dave
Last Name: wagner
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: T14711755GA
Location: Kansas City Missouri

Re: New guy here

Post by Wags70ss » Wed Apr 08, 2020 10:39 am

The one with the 1925 tag isn't a picture of the car. Sorry about that lol. I was trying to figure out what the coil springs were on the front of it. ;)

User avatar

Rich Eagle
Posts: 6781
Joined: Fri Jan 04, 2019 10:51 am
First Name: Richard
Last Name: Eagle
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1909 TR 1914 TR 1915 Rd 1920 Spdstr 1922 Coupe 1925 Tudor
Location: Idaho Falls, ID
MTFCA Number: 1219
Contact:

Re: New guy here

Post by Rich Eagle » Wed Apr 08, 2020 10:41 am

Welcome to the affliction as they say. That looks like a Kingston "L4" carburetor. A fresh find with all sorts of adventures awaiting you. We are here to answer your questions in as many ways as possible. Some comments may help.
Those are Hassler Shock Absorbers.
Glad to have you on board.
Rich
When did I do that?

User avatar

DanTreace
Posts: 3285
Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 10:56 am
First Name: Dan
Last Name: Treace
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: '23 cutoff, '25 touring, '27 touring
Location: North Central FL
MTFCA Number: 4838
MTFCI Number: 115
Board Member Since: 2000
Contact:

Re: New guy here

Post by DanTreace » Wed Apr 08, 2020 10:46 am

Congrats!

Looks like a nice restoration project. It is indeed a 1927 Coupe, engine # on title shows it to have been mfg. Feb 8, 1927 along with 4,999 motors made that same day.

Needs paint job of course, but that can be after you get her running to see what the conditions are. The carb is factory, its a Kingston. The old water pump is an accessory and was likely placed there as the radiator is probably long gone in providing proper cooling.

So, you have a few things to do, new tires and tubes, some other new parts, and then it should be running at least to do a check ride.

Lots of others will post too, nice T to have as a new owner, seems solid without rust, and at least the replacement upholstery is good enough to get by.

Couple of observations, the spark advance rod to the timer is placed over that large hose, unlike stock, you may have to change that out to get good timing. The carb has extra rod to it, that is linkage to a foot feed accelerator on the floorboard. The radiator is older aftermarket. Lastly, the radiator outlet with fan pulley is the early 1926 version, with adj. bolt below, Ford changed that to new style with fan shaft and eccentric to provide belt adjustment.
The best way is always the simplest. The attics of the world are cluttered up with complicated failures. Henry Ford
Don’t find fault, find a remedy; anybody can complain. Henry Ford

User avatar

Steve Jelf
Posts: 6452
Joined: Fri Jan 04, 2019 9:37 pm
First Name: Steve
Last Name: Jelf
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1923 touring and a few projects
Location: Parkerfield, Kansas
MTFCA Number: 16175
MTFCI Number: 14758
Board Member Since: 2007
Contact:

Re: New guy here

Post by Steve Jelf » Wed Apr 08, 2020 11:12 am

The number on the title says the engine assembly date was February 8, 1927, so yes, it's a 1927 engine. Look on top of the right frame rail under the floorboard. If the number stamped there is the same, the car has its original engine. It seems that matching numbers are a big deal on muscle cars. On Model T's that's nice, but nobody really cares. The car came from the factory with a vaporizer, which has been replaced with an earlier carburetor. This is quite common, as the vaporizer has a reputation for being troublesome. The car also came from the factory with no water pump because the cooling system is designed not to need it. So your radiator may be bad. A water pump is often used as a Band aid for that problem. I can't comment on the coils, as I don't see a picture of those.

Ask the previous owner if the rear axle has been rebuilt. If he says no, or doesn't know, you should make it a top priority. Here's why: http://dauntlessgeezer.com/DG79.html.

This will give you a rough guesstimate of the value: http://dauntlessgeezer.com/DG99.html

You will definitely need this: http://dauntlessgeezer.com/DG80.html

You can look through my other Model T pages and see what applies to your car. As Rich said, welcome to the affliction.
The inevitable often happens.
1915 Runabout
1923 Touring


Fire_chief
Posts: 203
Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 11:09 am
First Name: Charlie
Last Name: Gagel
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 12 Tourings(2),14 Tourings(2),15 Touring,22Touring,22 TT,21 Fire Truck,14 Chief Car
Location: Orange, CT
MTFCA Number: 8377
MTFCA Life Member: YES
MTFCI Number: 22437

Re: New guy here

Post by Fire_chief » Wed Apr 08, 2020 11:19 am

Congratulations on your new car.
Get it running and enjoy it the way it is.
Join a local club, and you will find instant help.


Norman Kling
Posts: 4041
Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2019 1:39 pm
First Name: Norman
Last Name: Kling
Location: Alpine California

Re: New guy here

Post by Norman Kling » Wed Apr 08, 2020 11:45 am

It's hard to tell from the picture, but that carburetor could be a Kingston L4 or a Holly NH. Either kind is dependable and parts are available to rebuild. If you see a brass plug with a screwdriver slot across the top on the top of the carburetor just toward the front of the car from the adjustment needle, your carburetor is a Kingston.
The water pump is a trouble maker, they can easily leak and drain the cooling system. The original equipment just had a fitting on the side of the block with hose and pipe and another hose to the radiator. Usually the water pump was installed if the engine tended to overheat. With a clean cooling system and good radiator, the water pump is not necessary and in fact can actually cause the engine to run too cold in cold weather.
It looks like you have all the parts to make the car run. The Model T repair manual and the books published by the club, "Engine", "Transmission", "Electrical System", "Rear Axle" or "Ruxtell axle" and,"Carburetor" Are all do it yourself instructions and should be of great help in getting the car running or restoring it if you want to. Some just like to get the mechanical system working good and leave the body as is. Others like to restore the entire car, and others like to modify it by changing color or adding speed equipment.
You should also inspect the wheels very closely for loose or broken or deteriorated spokes. New spokes should be made of hickory. Other types wood are not strong enough for wheel spokes.
You will need a "rim spreader" to remove or install the tires. Someone in your local club will very likely have one. They are good tool to look for at swap meets, or even antique stores.
Norm


Sarikatime
Posts: 621
Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 12:47 pm
First Name: Frank
Last Name: Seress
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1912 Towncar, 1915 Touring
Location: Prescott, Arizona
MTFCA Number: 27707

Re: New guy here

Post by Sarikatime » Wed Apr 08, 2020 11:52 am

Dave, you have received a lot of excellent advice but the best would be to contact one of the club members in your area and have them look over the car with you. The car looks like it has stood out in the rain and snow for many years so shake the body and doors well in case the small amount of wood there is may be dry rotted, or the upholstery may look good but will crumble as soon as you touch it. If things are checked out by the local experts and the price is what you feel comfortable with, get it running and have a great time. You could always enjoy it a couple seasons or years and sell it and buy what you really like or would rather have now that you know what you are getting into. Just a thought. Frank

User avatar

DLodge
Posts: 592
Joined: Sat Jan 05, 2019 8:14 pm
First Name: Dick
Last Name: Lodge
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1924 Touring
Location: St. Louis MO
MTFCA Number: 19659
Board Member Since: 1999

Re: New guy here

Post by DLodge » Wed Apr 08, 2020 11:56 am

Dave, you're on the wrong side of the state for me to recommend our club here, but looking at the chapter listing, I found the website of the KC chapter:

http://www.kcchuggers.com/

Have fun!


jiminbartow
Posts: 2193
Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 10:55 pm
First Name: James
Last Name: Patrick
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926 Coupe
Location: Bartow, FL
MTFCA Number: 50126
Board Member Since: 2001

Re: New guy here

Post by jiminbartow » Wed Apr 08, 2020 12:20 pm

Hi Dave. Welcome and congratulations on your purchase. You came to the right site. There is a lot of experience and knowledge here from people who want to help those like minded people who recognize the importance of the Model T and wish to enjoy and preserve them for future generations. You should think of yourself as a temporary custodian, preserving a historical artifact while you inhabit the earth. Hopefully, it will continue being a Model T, that will be passed to a future custodian, after you are gone, instead of being converted a rat rod. Once a Model T has been drastically altered, it ceases to be a Model T and is lost forever. While many were made, they are disappearing every day and may one day, become very rare, if we are not careful.

Model T’s were manufactured from 1909 (a few in 1908) to 1927. Over fifteen million of them were made and until the VW, they held the record for the most cars produced. For that reason, parts are very easy to get and it remains as one of the easiest early 20th century collectible cars to restore. For the same reason, it is not really an investment, because there are so many, you will never get a sufficient return on your investment of money and time involved to restore it. Strictly a labor of love, like raising a child.

The engine number, is stamped on the left side of the engine on a boss above the water inlet. There is also a number stamped into the top of the chassis under the floorboard. Mine is on the driver’s side next to the emergency brake ratchet, but it has also been reported to be located on the passenger side. If the 2 numbers match, you have a more desirable T, for it means it has the original engine it left the factory with in 1927. The number is the chronological number of your car assigned at the time it was manufactured and listed the order your T was completed and rolled off the line.

Your T is referred to as the “improved Model T”. In an effort to revive the fall in sales of the Model T, in 1926 the improved T was a redesigned Model T designed to try and entice new customers to come back to Ford in order to compete with the competition, who caught up to and surpassed Ford in the design of the cars they offered, but Henry Ford was stubborn and refused to admit that the T was obsolete. The improved T was an all steel body, lower, less spindly looking and more aerodynamic and came in colors. Yours would have originally been Green with pinstriping and black fenders. The 1926 and 1927 Model T’s are identical and even though they were an improvement, sales continued to fall and production of the Model T finally ceased in 1927. The Ford Model A came out in 1928.

I have a 1926 coupe, just like yours that I bought for $600.00 in 1970 when I was 16. It took me 2 years and all the money I made bagging groceries, but I completed it in 2 years, in the summer of 1972. There was no internet or MTFCA, so, I was on my own with 3 books to guide me. I suggest you get the 3 books, I used which are still available. One of the links I am listing here is the link I posted in 2011, documenting the completed restoration of my T that corrected the mistakes I made during the first restoration in the early 70’s when I had no experience, no guidance and very little money. It may give you inspiration to see what yours may look like one day, should you choose to restore it to new condition. The other link shows the 3 books you should consider getting to familiarize and educate yourself on your Model T. The black Model T service book is for the 1926-‘27 improved Model T.

Mine was made in March of 1926 when Ford was still changing over to the new production. T’s had always been painted black, so offering them in a variety of colors was a new logistical assembly line problem Ford had to work through. I was never able to find any evidence that mine was ever painted green, so it was determined by Bruce McCalley (a Model T expert who wrote the definitive encyclopedia of the Model T) that, mine was painted black, due to some problem on the line at the time. To Ford, the most important thing was to keep the assembly line moving 24/7 and a small problem such as running out of green paint, was not about to delay the line. They simply used what they had and they always had plenty of black. Good luck. Jim Patrick

PS. You can do keyword searches to find old posts that can answer your questions. There is also an encyclopedia and other references on this site you can use to educate yourself. Take sometime to explore this site. It is very helpful.

www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/118802/174776.html
www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/118802/161571.html


John kuehn
Posts: 3891
Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 8:00 pm
First Name: John
Last Name: Kuehn
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 19 Roadster, 21 Touring, 24 Coupe
Location: Texas
MTFCA Number: 28924

Re: New guy here

Post by John kuehn » Wed Apr 08, 2020 1:49 pm

Hello Dave!
Looks like you have a good car to start with in your Model T adventure. Yes a lot of information can be found here. This is the place to go to.
One of the best things you can do is to buy the Ford service manual for T’s. Read and study it as you go along. Also the T repair manuals that are available for the different aspects of T’s are really helpful in making repairs. Take your time and study your manuals. And remember that your dealing with 100 year old technology. That makes it fun!
Good luck!


John kuehn
Posts: 3891
Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 8:00 pm
First Name: John
Last Name: Kuehn
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 19 Roadster, 21 Touring, 24 Coupe
Location: Texas
MTFCA Number: 28924

Re: New guy here

Post by John kuehn » Wed Apr 08, 2020 1:58 pm

I was looking again at your pics of the engine. In my earlier post I mentioned getting the T manuals to help you out. The previous owner added a water pump to it. You won’t find anything about water pumps in the T manuals because the didn’t come with a water pump!

Water pumps on a T is another thing you will learn about! But get it running like it is and then
deal with the water pump later. Good luck.

User avatar

CudaMan
Posts: 2373
Joined: Fri Jan 04, 2019 4:17 pm
First Name: Mark
Last Name: Strange
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1924 Cut Off Touring (now a pickup)
Location: Hillsboro, MO
MTFCA Number: 30944
MTFCI Number: 23667
Board Member Since: 2013

Re: New guy here

Post by CudaMan » Wed Apr 08, 2020 2:10 pm

Nice project! My opinion - get it running and make it safe, then drive and enjoy it while the weather is nice. You can pick away at other things on the car as time allows, but keep it driveable! Too many times a car project gets completely torn down immediately, which renders it undriveable and can dissipate the initial enthusiasm. The car then ends up as an unfinished pile of parts that eventually gets disposed of at a loss.

Make it safe, then drive it and enjoy it! :)
Mark Strange
Hillsboro, MO
1924 Cut-off Touring (now a pickup)

User avatar

ChrisB
Posts: 363
Joined: Thu Jan 03, 2019 1:38 pm
First Name: Chris
Last Name: Brancaccio
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1909 Roadster 1915 Coupelet 1923 Coupe 1926 Touring
Location: Calgary AB
MTFCA Number: 443
MTFCA Life Member: YES
MTFCI Number: 23136
Board Member Since: 2005
Contact:

Re: New guy here

Post by ChrisB » Wed Apr 08, 2020 2:14 pm

Here is a link to an old document, "Removing a T from Mothballs", looks like from the Towe Auto Museum.

http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/70 ... 762335.doc

There is a lot in the document but if you take one thing at a time you will be fine.

Chris
Chris Brancaccio
MTFCA Webmaster
MTFCA Forum Admin

User avatar

Thorlick
Posts: 215
Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 7:17 pm
First Name: Terry
Last Name: Horlick
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1927 Roadster Pickup "Mountain Patrol vehicle" from Los Angeles City Fire Department and a 1912 Model T omnibus restoration project
Location: Penn Valley, CA
MTFCA Number: 50510
Board Member Since: 1999

Re: New guy here

Post by Thorlick » Fri Apr 10, 2020 11:16 pm

Steve, not a vaporizer car. Vaporizers use a throttle bell crank up near the firewall not down in the middle. My late ‘27 does it that way and has a vaporizer. Late production didn’t punch the web between cylinder 2&3 or drill the throttle hole in the valve cover. So it is possible he has the original carburetor.

Having the original engine for your car makes you smile... no one else cares.

I would only address the radiator and get rid of the water pump AND DRIVE IT!
Terry Horlick, Penn Valley, CA
1927 Mountain Patrol Vehicle from the Los Angeles City Fire Department (L.A.F.D.)
1912 Model T Ford English Station Omnibus


Mark Osterman
Posts: 1011
Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2019 10:18 pm
First Name: Mark
Last Name: Osterman
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1923 runabout
Location: Rochester, NY
Contact:

Re: New guy here

Post by Mark Osterman » Fri Apr 10, 2020 11:30 pm

Welcome to the world of model Ts. They are a lot if fun and a great distraction from the stresses of everyday life. I drive mine nearly every day. What part of Kansas City. I went to the Kansas City Art Institute and have pieces in the Nelson Gallery collection. Beautiful city.


StanHowe
Posts: 979
Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2019 5:42 pm
First Name: Stan
Last Name: Howe
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 2
Location: Helena, MT
MTFCA Number: 19133
Board Member Since: 1999

Re: New guy here

Post by StanHowe » Sat Apr 11, 2020 12:27 am

I KNOW BETTER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I JUST WROTE A FIVE MINUTE POST AND IT ATE IT WHEN I TRIED TO POST IT!!!!!!!!!!! SHOULD HAVE COPIED IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I KNOW BETTER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


jiminbartow
Posts: 2193
Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 10:55 pm
First Name: James
Last Name: Patrick
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926 Coupe
Location: Bartow, FL
MTFCA Number: 50126
Board Member Since: 2001

Re: New guy here

Post by jiminbartow » Sat Apr 11, 2020 11:34 am

Try again Stan. I always enjoy your informative posts. Whatever it says, I’m sure it will contain information, beneficial, not only to Dave (the new guy), but to us all. Jim Patrick.

PS. I know what you mean about posts disappearing. I never had a problem with my posts disappearing on the old forum like they do with this new format. It’s very frustrating, especially when you have a lot of time and thought involved with writing it. It happened to me last night and I did not try to re-write it.


StanHowe
Posts: 979
Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2019 5:42 pm
First Name: Stan
Last Name: Howe
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 2
Location: Helena, MT
MTFCA Number: 19133
Board Member Since: 1999

Re: New guy here

Post by StanHowe » Sat Apr 11, 2020 2:01 pm

Here is a short version of what I wrote last night that the web site ate as "MTFCA is not available at this time."

I also have a 27 coupe. Mine is original light green with black fenders brush painted in the long ago past. The interior is gone and eventually will be done in patchwork denim from old jeans. I've known the car since the 70's it came off a farm near Hingham where it was bought new and passed down to two daughters who never married.

Here is my advice to anyone buying a T for the first time.

Don't tear it down to rebuild it until you have a replacement part ready to go in. T rearends are cheap. If you were closer I'd give you one. Find a decent one, tear it down and replace the babbitt washers with bronze, the ring and pinion are probably usable the way they are, make sure the axles aren't cracked and the threads are good, put it together, put it in and go drive it. Now rebuild the one that came out of it with new axles, new ring and pinion if it needs it, etc. Get one of your new Model T buddies to come help. When you get it all done, you have spent very little more money than if you had parked the car for days, weeks or months while you rebuilt the rearend and got it back in.

Do the same with other stuff. Find a starter. Rebuild it and switch it in. Rebuild a carb and put it on. Then rebuild the original. How's the engine?? Got a knock. Find another one for a couple hundred bucks, take up the rods and grind the valves and put it in. Have fun driving it while you rebuild or have rebuilt the other one.

Pretty soon you have a good running, driving T with a good stock of rebuilt parts if you need them, you have new Model T friends and if you are lucky, a wife or girlfriend that sees you making progress and has some new friends with husbands with common interest, too.

You'll be smarter, you'll figure out that working on them is a lot of the fun, they they are simpler than you think and more complicated than you ever thought but fun and a great bunch of guys that also like them.

Things to fix first but that are easy few hour jobs. Parking brake. Bands. Coil and Timer (Don't let anybody talk you into some distributor conversion -- no timer, no coils, no T) Lights including a working brake light.

Go on a little tour with the other Model T guys. Take your wife and the kids.

Go drive it. Don't worry about paint. Anybody can write a check to have one painted. Let the kids sit on the front fenders and take a picture of them.

If you want spiffy paint, buy an airless compressor set up, some plastic sheeting or one of those tent things from Harbor Freight. Sandpaper. Primer, paint. If you want spiffier paint there are lots of gorgeous cars for sale every day. Sell your T and buy one. Take it to a show and stand there all day long making sure nobody touches it. A T??? Have them get in and show them how it pedals work, show them the coils, tell them how you rebuilt the rearend. Tell them about the one your friend has for sale. Take them for a ride and let them drive it on the way back. That's what Model T's are for.

It's just a Model T. Drive it, enjoy it, make new friends, drive it, learn about it, drive it, work on it.

There is no antidote for the addiction. I got my first one in 1954. Still addicted.


jiminbartow
Posts: 2193
Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 10:55 pm
First Name: James
Last Name: Patrick
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926 Coupe
Location: Bartow, FL
MTFCA Number: 50126
Board Member Since: 2001

Re: New guy here

Post by jiminbartow » Sat Apr 11, 2020 4:25 pm

As Stan says. Don’t remove and replace the coil boxes. Your Model T can’t talk to you without its’ coils. Jim Patrick

User avatar

Steve Jelf
Posts: 6452
Joined: Fri Jan 04, 2019 9:37 pm
First Name: Steve
Last Name: Jelf
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1923 touring and a few projects
Location: Parkerfield, Kansas
MTFCA Number: 16175
MTFCI Number: 14758
Board Member Since: 2007
Contact:

Re: New guy here

Post by Steve Jelf » Sun Apr 12, 2020 12:12 am

People change to a disturbutor because it's "more reliable". But I've been stuck by the side of the road more than once because of Chebby ignition trouble, never by Ford coils and timer.
The inevitable often happens.
1915 Runabout
1923 Touring


RumblingThunder
Posts: 12
Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2019 4:12 am
First Name: Frank
Last Name: Kelley
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: '22 touring, '26 depot hack
Location: Lake Lotawana, MO
MTFCA Number: 27854
MTFCI Number: 21674

Re: New guy here

Post by RumblingThunder » Sun Apr 12, 2020 3:15 am

Hi Dave, Welcome to the Model T world. It's great fun and as you have seen many good folks will join in to give you help. The Kansas City Chuggers is the local Model T club and we affiliate with the MTFCA and the MTFCI. We of course are not meeting because of the virus, but you can visit our website for information about us. Our webmaster and President is recovering from surgery so it is not real current but you can get some idea of what we attempt to do. There are several members with '26-'27 coupes in the club. I am one of them. The website is: www.kcchuggers.com. When we start meeting again we would be very happy if you would come out and see if you'd like to join us.
PS Don't get too hasty about replacing the tires - they will probably get you around until you get ready to do some touring.


Original Smith
Posts: 3280
Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2019 10:43 am
First Name: Larry
Last Name: Smith
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 13 Touring, 13 Roadster, 17 Coupelet, 25 Roadster P/U
Location: Lomita, California
MTFCA Number: 121
MTFCA Life Member: YES
MTFCI Number: 16310

Re: New guy here

Post by Original Smith » Sun Apr 12, 2020 10:23 am

Get rid of that non original patent plate above the terminal block! Ford never made those for Model T's. You need to find the correct horn and bracket made for 26-7 T's. You can't use one now because of that water pump, but if you choose to use one, they made pumps that allow you to use a stock horn. Have fun, and find a copy of the Ford Service Book, with the section in back on 26-7 models.


Topic author
Wags70ss
Posts: 12
Joined: Tue Apr 07, 2020 9:36 pm
First Name: Dave
Last Name: wagner
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: T14711755GA
Location: Kansas City Missouri

Re: New guy here

Post by Wags70ss » Sun Apr 12, 2020 5:29 pm

Thanks for all the great information guys! :) I haven't picked up the car yet. I'm paying $5000 for it. It might be a little more than it's worth, but I don't care. I've always wanted one so it's just money.

A little about me. I'm 57 years old. I've been fixing cars since I was 14 years old. My wife and I currently own around 30 vehicles. I know it's crazy! I own a Pro Street 70 Chevelle SS that I bought when I was 19, and I still have it. I love old cars and have always owned them.

I'm a mechanic by trade and there's nothing I can't do to a car. I've never worked on a model T, but I have worked on thousands of cars, so I'm definitely not worried about fixing this car. My wife and I will be making this our project vehicle when we get it home.

I am told that this car had been restored in the past, but didn't have proper metal work done before it was painted, thus the horrible look of it.

My first priority will be to get it running and driving. I'm not afraid to drive a car with "patina", so it will get driven.

I definitely plan on rebuilding the carb, tuning it up, checking the brakes, and now the rear axle, after reading what I have read here!

We plan on repainting it ourselves. It won't be a gorgeous paint, but they weren't beautiful when they were new. We basically want to make it look something like it would have in 1927. It's cool that in 7 years, it'll be 100 years old!

A few questions for you guys. Where is the wood located on the body, and can I make my own replacement pieces? I assume it's probably oak? What size are the tires on this car? I assume 21 inch? Where can I find new tires for an affordable price? Anyone got any nice ones for sale? I'd like to do a compression test on it. What readings should I expect? Anyone got a compression tester I can borrow? Are the spark plugs a pipe thread? Should I put an aluminum radiator in it to help with cooling?

Keep the advice coming, I'm soaking it in! :)

I'll post pictures of her when we get her loaded up on the trailer. I'm definitely excited about this purchase!


Topic author
Wags70ss
Posts: 12
Joined: Tue Apr 07, 2020 9:36 pm
First Name: Dave
Last Name: wagner
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: T14711755GA
Location: Kansas City Missouri

Re: New guy here

Post by Wags70ss » Sun Apr 12, 2020 5:32 pm

Is there a place to plumb in an oil pressure Guage? I'd like to do that. How about a water temperature Guage?


Scott_Conger
Posts: 6420
Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 11:18 am
First Name: Scott
Last Name: Conger
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: '13, '15, '19, '23
Location: Clark, WY
Board Member Since: 2005

Re: New guy here

Post by Scott_Conger » Sun Apr 12, 2020 5:42 pm

Dave

good of you to mention that you're a mechanic. I will tell you now, that this can lead to very unfortunate accidents involving "obvious" repairs. That said, I'll warn you of one of the most common mistakes which leads to significant expense and work which can and should be avoided: Removal of the starter

To accomplish the removal of the starter, the bendix cover MUST come off and the bendix MUST be removed, and the bendix woodruff key MUST NOT fall into the transmission. Failure to remove the bendix prior to withdrawal of the starter WILL result in damage to the magneto field coil to the point of ruining it. This one mistake has led to the purchase of many distributors.

Your mechanical ability will serve you well, but your experience will lead you to mistakes if you do not research the repair well in advance of getting into trouble. This early technology came about before many modern paradigms were established. It is what makes their repair and maintenance interesting and maddening, sometimes at the same time.

Good luck, have fun, and expect surprises.

BTW, you can plumb an oil pressure gauge pretty much anywhere you want, as there is no oil pressure to measure, there is no wrong place to put it (or correct place either). It is a splash system.
Last edited by Scott_Conger on Sun Apr 12, 2020 5:44 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Scott Conger

Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny

NH Full Flow Float Valves
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured

User avatar

perry kete
Posts: 1560
Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 11:46 am
First Name: Dennis
Last Name: Seth
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1922 Coupe 1927 Touring
Location: Jefferson Ohio

Re: New guy here

Post by perry kete » Sun Apr 12, 2020 5:43 pm

If you look at the front top center of your radiator you will see your "Water temperature guage" aka Moto meter
1922 Coupe & 1927 Touring


Norman Kling
Posts: 4041
Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2019 1:39 pm
First Name: Norman
Last Name: Kling
Location: Alpine California

Re: New guy here

Post by Norman Kling » Sun Apr 12, 2020 5:45 pm

You can use a water temperature gauge inserted in the upper hose. However a motometer will tell you if you are overheating. Unless the T has been modified for a pressurized oil system, you will not have oil pressure. You can however, tell if you are getting oil to the front of the engine, by removing the bolt at the front of the crankcase inspection plate and with the engine running, oil should run out at the bolt hole. Many T owners will install an external oiler from the magneto post to the front of the engine. If you want to do more work to get oil flow to the front, you can install other types of oil lines. There are posts instructing how this is done, and since I have only used the magneto post oiler, I won't comment on how those others are installed. I had one engine where the funnel on the T oiler had broken off soon after I installed the engine and ran on only the pipe without the funnel and the magneto post oiler. I ran it for ten years that way and on many tours. I know exactly when the funnel broke off because soon after I had installed the engine, the mag stopped working and I ran on battery for those ten years and didn't know what had happened until I pulled the engine and found the coil ring had been broken and the funnel resting on the bottom of the crankcase.
Norm


Topic author
Wags70ss
Posts: 12
Joined: Tue Apr 07, 2020 9:36 pm
First Name: Dave
Last Name: wagner
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: T14711755GA
Location: Kansas City Missouri

Re: New guy here

Post by Wags70ss » Sun Apr 12, 2020 5:52 pm

Should I convert it to 12 volts? I just thought it would be easier to work on it with a 12 volt system.

Is the coil box rebuildable? I don't know the condition of it, but I'm hopeful that it will be fine. I'll figure it out when I get it back home.


Scott_Conger
Posts: 6420
Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 11:18 am
First Name: Scott
Last Name: Conger
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: '13, '15, '19, '23
Location: Clark, WY
Board Member Since: 2005

Re: New guy here

Post by Scott_Conger » Sun Apr 12, 2020 6:05 pm

12V is not necessary. Upgrades to 12V are usually a bandaid fix for a shot starter and/or badly silvered reflectors in the headlights. Brisk starting and lights that rival 12V can be had with 6V if the car is in proper condition.

Yes, the coil box can and should be rebuilt. The best material to use is the thermoplastic kit offered among other original wood options which vary from poor to excellent. The plastic version is impervious to moisture and moisture is your enemy here.

Stan Howe gave one of the very best soliloquies on thoughtfully bringing the car back to operation that I have ever seen. Do not be in a hurry to "improve" on what is arguably the most debugged and best selling vehicle of all time. That said, looking at the wiring, a thorough going-through and replacement would be in order for simple safety's sake.

4 rebuilt coils, a rebuilt coil box, new wiring, a clean fuel system and a rebuilt carb, which will be the simplest you've ever seen, (but which cannot be rebuilt properly on intuition alone) will likely have it running.
Scott Conger

Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny

NH Full Flow Float Valves
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured


jiminbartow
Posts: 2193
Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 10:55 pm
First Name: James
Last Name: Patrick
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926 Coupe
Location: Bartow, FL
MTFCA Number: 50126
Board Member Since: 2001

Re: New guy here

Post by jiminbartow » Sun Apr 12, 2020 11:08 pm

While you are waiting to pick up the T, order the 3 books I mentioned in the link and study them. Especially the T-1 Ford Model T Service Manual. Being a modern day mechanic is useful in knowing which tools to use and how to use them, but being a Model T mechanic is a whole different animal, because there are so many things to know about working on a Model T that without guidance, can only be learned the hard way.

You have three choices when installing new bands. Kevlar (which can overheat and crack your drums), Original Scandinavian bands, or Guinn’s wooden bands. I have used all three types of the bands and the wood bands are my preference, but they should be installed whenever you are rebuilding the engine as they are impossible to install through the transmission opening without cracking or splitting. The bands, with the wood liners installed, must be made as perfectly round as possible when installing onto the drums. When working in the transmission, such as removing or installing the bands, you should stuff the spaces on both sides of the drums with rags to prevent dropping the band nuts, washers or springs into the oil pan, for anything dropped in there is very difficult and time consuming to get out. Also, whenever working in the transmission while it is in the car, be sure to take the key out of the ignition, for it is very easy for the key to come out and fall into the opening.

I would not changeover to 12 volt. Mine was 12 volt for a short while and destroyed the bendix spring because when starting using 12 volt, it slammed the starter bendix gear into the ring gear. I’m surprised it didn’t destroy the starter. I changed it back to 6 volt and much prefer it. If the Model T electrical system is wired properly and set up right, there is no reason to change it to a 12 volt system.

When cranking, using the crank, position the crank at about 7:00. Do not wrap your thumb around the crank. Using just the four fingers yank up on the crank and release the crank at 12:00, continuing the upward motion of your hand, getting your hand out of the way in case of a backfire. Never continue around and push down on the crank. If it does backfire, while your arm is in the way, it will break your arm. Some folks insist that, for safety reasons, the left arm must be used, but I am right handed and it is easier and safer for me to use my right arm. Also, it is very difficult to pull on the brass choke ring with the right hand while using the left hand to crank. There are enough period photos and videos of original Model T owners cranking with their right hand to justify that using the right hand was the way most original T owners cranked their T, but the choice is yours.

Don’t imagine that you can take a screw driver and wrench and adjust the coil box points by eye or ear. You can’t. This was my second mistake in 1970. You need a special hand cranked machine equipped with a magneto, magnets and voltmeter for doing this. There are members on the forum that have this machine and for a fee will adjust the four coil boxes for you. It is totally worth it.

When taking off the right front wheel, remember that it is threaded opposite of regular nuts and must be turned clockwise to remove. This is one of the first mistakes I made in 1970 and almost broke off the spindle.

There are a lot more things to know, but this is enough for now.

Jim Patrick


Topic author
Wags70ss
Posts: 12
Joined: Tue Apr 07, 2020 9:36 pm
First Name: Dave
Last Name: wagner
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: T14711755GA
Location: Kansas City Missouri

Re: New guy here

Post by Wags70ss » Mon Apr 13, 2020 12:07 pm

Thanks again! How do I purchase the books mentioned here?

User avatar

Steve Jelf
Posts: 6452
Joined: Fri Jan 04, 2019 9:37 pm
First Name: Steve
Last Name: Jelf
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1923 touring and a few projects
Location: Parkerfield, Kansas
MTFCA Number: 16175
MTFCI Number: 14758
Board Member Since: 2007
Contact:

Re: New guy here

Post by Steve Jelf » Mon Apr 13, 2020 12:44 pm

The MTFCA manuals are available here https://modeltstore.myshopify.com/produ ... ce-manuals and from most of the parts dealers. The parts dealers also sell the Bible (Service Manual), parts books, and other useful publications, I haven't checked this, but I suspect Lang's has the widest selection. Bruce McCalley's Model T Encyclopedia on disk is the best fifty bucks you can spend on a Model T. Ordering info for it is here: http://dauntlessgeezer.com/DG80.html
The inevitable often happens.
1915 Runabout
1923 Touring


jiminbartow
Posts: 2193
Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 10:55 pm
First Name: James
Last Name: Patrick
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926 Coupe
Location: Bartow, FL
MTFCA Number: 50126
Board Member Since: 2001

Re: New guy here

Post by jiminbartow » Mon Apr 13, 2020 12:48 pm

Two of the best suppliers are: www.modeltford.com or www.snydersantiqueauto.com. If one does not have what you need, try the other. Prices and service are pretty compatible. When I purchased the red Model T restoration book, I was very please to find that the last several pages had the contact information of all of the Model T parts suppliers that were in business at the time. At the time, I was totally clueless, so this was immensely helpful to me in helping to point me in the right direction in undertaking my restoration. Jim Patrick


Scott_Conger
Posts: 6420
Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 11:18 am
First Name: Scott
Last Name: Conger
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: '13, '15, '19, '23
Location: Clark, WY
Board Member Since: 2005

Re: New guy here

Post by Scott_Conger » Mon Apr 13, 2020 1:30 pm

http://www.snjparts.com/3-Model-T-Parts
https://bobsantiqueautoparts.com/produc ... y/general/
https://www.vintageford.com/sect_search ... ory=Brakes
https://www.chaffinsgarage.com/catalog.pdf
https://modeltranch.com/price_list_sheet.asp
https://specialtymotorcams.com/
cam gears, triple gears, etc: dmcgearsatyahoodotcom

lots to chose from
nearly every supplier is also in one way or another a manufacturer and will have a little better price on one thing and a higher price on another. Generally speaking, they are all delightful to deal with and knowledgeable about their products and their applications.

Not every supplier offering the same part will be a part made by the same manufacturer. Quality varies. It will take a long time to decipher who sometimes stocks parts that are inferior and who tends to stock the better part. If you're going to spend a lot of money on a part, it is wise to seek advice first
Scott Conger

Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny

NH Full Flow Float Valves
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured


jiminbartow
Posts: 2193
Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 10:55 pm
First Name: James
Last Name: Patrick
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926 Coupe
Location: Bartow, FL
MTFCA Number: 50126
Board Member Since: 2001

Re: New guy here

Post by jiminbartow » Mon Apr 13, 2020 1:44 pm

Can someone provide the current addresses of those that rebuild spark coils and magneto coil rings? Regarding the magneto coil rings, I had Wally do a couple for me, but I understand someone has taken over from him after he retired. Jim Patrick

User avatar

Mark Nunn
Posts: 1099
Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2019 8:01 am
First Name: Mark
Last Name: Nunn
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926 Runabout
Location: Bennington, NE
MTFCA Number: 50321
Board Member Since: 2017

Re: New guy here

Post by Mark Nunn » Mon Apr 13, 2020 1:49 pm

Regarding a compression test, yes the spark plugs are 1/2" pipe thread. If your tester does not have that size, the vendors noted above sell an inexpensive adapter to let you use what you have.

Also, click the "Model T Club of America" banner at the top of this page. Click on "Suppliers" on the right side to fine a large group of companies that can help you with parts and services.


StanHowe
Posts: 979
Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2019 5:42 pm
First Name: Stan
Last Name: Howe
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 2
Location: Helena, MT
MTFCA Number: 19133
Board Member Since: 1999

Re: New guy here

Post by StanHowe » Mon Apr 13, 2020 2:23 pm

There are all sorts of people who deal in Model T parts, some long time, some fairly new. This fairly new one is also part of the list of suppliers, Bill Devine and his wife Shawna purchased Texas T Parts from Ben Hardeman several years ago and are now having the Sure Stop Brakes developed by Bill Tharp produced. They recently purchased Fun Projects-- maker of much of the electronic accessory items produced as well as the modern pinion bearing setup sold now as the "accessory pinion bearing kit" as opposed to the Fun Projects pinion bearing kit. It appears to be the same product. They now operate as Birdhaven although since they took over the Texas T Parts name along with buying the company the website is Texas T Parts. http://www.texastparts.com/mm5/merchant.mvc

I'm sure there are other suppliers as well. Bill and Shawna have invested and are investing a lot of time and money in manufacture of products as are Bobs Model T Parts, Chaffins, Langs and other who are not just retailers of products produced by others.

Chaffins just passed down the ownership from Glen to his son, Bob's is closing their retail operation and moving on to being only a parts manufacturer, Snyders and many others manufacture parts and sell them to the other retailers.

There are also many specialty service providers such as coils, timers, carburetors, coil boxes, mag coils, starter and generator rebuilders, etc, etc.

The hobby is alive and well.


jiminbartow
Posts: 2193
Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 10:55 pm
First Name: James
Last Name: Patrick
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926 Coupe
Location: Bartow, FL
MTFCA Number: 50126
Board Member Since: 2001

Re: New guy here

Post by jiminbartow » Mon Apr 13, 2020 3:20 pm

Stan. I noticed that you did not mention yourself as a rebuilder of carburetors. Since you did not mention it, I’ll do it for you. Do you still rebuild carbs or are you no longer accepting work due to a heavy backlog? Jim Patrick


StanHowe
Posts: 979
Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2019 5:42 pm
First Name: Stan
Last Name: Howe
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 2
Location: Helena, MT
MTFCA Number: 19133
Board Member Since: 1999

Re: New guy here

Post by StanHowe » Mon Apr 13, 2020 4:26 pm

Thanks, I'm working every day pretty much although I did take yesterday off for Easter.

I'm so far behind I don't think I will ever get caught up and I'm not soliciting any new work for this year until I clear some of the backlog.

I also only do T carbs up through Holley G's. I don't do NH's and etc. I do accessory carbs for T's but I'm already working as many hours as I can be productive and so I'm not looking for any for work for at least a couple months.

I just bought a carb for my accessory carb collection and haven't even opened the box.

Back to the shop.


jiminbartow
Posts: 2193
Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 10:55 pm
First Name: James
Last Name: Patrick
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926 Coupe
Location: Bartow, FL
MTFCA Number: 50126
Board Member Since: 2001

Re: New guy here

Post by jiminbartow » Mon Apr 13, 2020 5:16 pm

The wood on your car is: the roof frame and slats, the spokes, seat frames, behind the seat shelf and body blocks between the body and chassis and behind the pan arms in the channel of the chassis. Some ‘26-‘27 bodies have wood around the windows, but I never found any evidence that my ‘26 coupe ever had any wood around the windows. If you are a good woodworker with the right tools, you can make any of the parts you need, using your original parts as a pattern. I would say that oak is not necessarily the wood that was used, because it is too hard and brittle. The spokes are hickory. For the body blocks, oak is used. Spruce, Ash, yellow pine, or Poplar are good straight stable woods for the roof, but choice of woods will vary on this. Just don’t use anything other than hickory for the spokes, or, better yet, purchase the spokes from a supplier. Yellow Pine for the seats frames. All of the wood parts can be purchased for your car from the suppliers, but may need to be cut to fit by you, if the parts don’t fit as they should,

In 2010, I purchased a set of oak body blocks for my ‘26 coupe and the two rear blocks would not fit properly in the space provided (I reported this on the forum in 2010. See attached post). Fortunately, the original blocks were still present, so I removed them and found them to be thinner and shorter than the blocks in the kit, so, using my table saw, I reformed the kit pieces to the exact dimensions of my original blocks. You may run into the same problem if you order a new set of body blocks for your coupe. Jim Patrick

www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/118802/125665.html


John Dow
Posts: 177
Joined: Tue Jan 29, 2019 10:21 am
First Name: John
Last Name: Dow
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1923 Touring
Location: Leawood, Ks
MTFCA Number: 32344
Board Member Since: 2015

Re: New guy here

Post by John Dow » Tue Apr 14, 2020 11:44 am

Hi Dave, I too am a member of the Chuggers and live in Leawood, Ks. The best advice I can give is to get your car running, make it safe and learn how to drive it. Above all have fun!! This forum is full of seasoned veterans with thousands of years of experience. They can answer any question you may have. Often you will receive varied/conflicting solutions to your issues so it's up to you to sift thru it all. Let me know If I can be of help. :D

User avatar

Steve Jelf
Posts: 6452
Joined: Fri Jan 04, 2019 9:37 pm
First Name: Steve
Last Name: Jelf
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1923 touring and a few projects
Location: Parkerfield, Kansas
MTFCA Number: 16175
MTFCI Number: 14758
Board Member Since: 2007
Contact:

Re: New guy here

Post by Steve Jelf » Tue Apr 14, 2020 1:17 pm

Often you will receive varied/conflicting solutions to your issues...

Some of the regulars really know their stuff, and come up with the best suggestions. After awhile you figure out who they are. :D
The inevitable often happens.
1915 Runabout
1923 Touring


jiminbartow
Posts: 2193
Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 10:55 pm
First Name: James
Last Name: Patrick
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926 Coupe
Location: Bartow, FL
MTFCA Number: 50126
Board Member Since: 2001

Re: New guy here

Post by jiminbartow » Tue Apr 14, 2020 3:33 pm

Here is a post from the past discussing the wood used on the Model T. One of the considerations Ford had in deciding what wood to use was cost and convenience. Keeping costs down on raw materials used in the construction of the Model T so that the average man could afford it was the biggest incentive for Ford to find the most inexpensive materials available. Factors such as how much the wood itself cost and finding woods that were located close to the factory to minimized shipping costs. One type of wood local to Michigan that is straight, strong and knot free is Fir. I don’t know how numerous Fir forests are today, but there were many around Detroit in the early 20th century and for us, Fir can be found in any lumber supply nationwide. The wood is strong, the grain is super straight and the wood easy to work with. I have heard that Ash is a good wood for body wood. Hickory is still the only choice to use in the spokes. I remember a post years ago on the Forum where a member posted warning pictures of his shattered spokes that he made from Oak. www.mtfca.com/cgi-bin/discus/show.cgi?tpc=29&post=19282. Jim Patrick

PS. If anyone can add to this it would be welcome.

User avatar

RichardG
Posts: 353
Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 10:29 pm
First Name: Richard
Last Name: Grzegorowicz
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1921 T pickup
Location: Hartland VT

Re: New guy here

Post by RichardG » Tue Apr 14, 2020 3:42 pm

DAVE, I WOULD LIKE TO PUT MY TWO CENTS WORTH IN TOO, YOU HAVE A LITTLE BEAUTY THERE, ITS JUST WAITING FOR YOU TO GET BUSY AND FIX OR REPLACE THINGS THAT WILL MAKE YOU AND THE FORD SAFE, YOU HAVE MANY YEARS ENJOYMENT AHEAD, ADVICE IS CHEEP, THIS IS THE BEST PLACE TO GET THE BEST, I FOUND WHEN YOUR QUESTION'S GETS ANSWER'S , READ ON IT WILL JUMP OUT TO YOU, GOOD LUCK, LET US KNOW HOW THING ARE GOING, GREG.

User avatar

Steve Jelf
Posts: 6452
Joined: Fri Jan 04, 2019 9:37 pm
First Name: Steve
Last Name: Jelf
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1923 touring and a few projects
Location: Parkerfield, Kansas
MTFCA Number: 16175
MTFCI Number: 14758
Board Member Since: 2007
Contact:

Re: New guy here

Post by Steve Jelf » Tue Apr 14, 2020 3:50 pm

107785.jpg
I think this may be the oak spoke Jim mentioned.
The inevitable often happens.
1915 Runabout
1923 Touring


Topic author
Wags70ss
Posts: 12
Joined: Tue Apr 07, 2020 9:36 pm
First Name: Dave
Last Name: wagner
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: T14711755GA
Location: Kansas City Missouri

Re: New guy here

Post by Wags70ss » Tue Apr 14, 2020 4:31 pm

http://www.cimorelli.com/mtdl/servicema ... mcolor.pdf

I found this free download for the Model T service manual. Looks like it is for a 1925? But free is always good!

Great advice. I'm definitely looking forward to going & getting this car! KC Chuggers guys, let me know when you have a meeting in May or June, and we'll try to bring it around for you all to look at.

I bought a new headlight wire harness off ebay today for $60. I figured it would probably need that.

Thanks for the information! ;)

User avatar

Thorlick
Posts: 215
Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 7:17 pm
First Name: Terry
Last Name: Horlick
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1927 Roadster Pickup "Mountain Patrol vehicle" from Los Angeles City Fire Department and a 1912 Model T omnibus restoration project
Location: Penn Valley, CA
MTFCA Number: 50510
Board Member Since: 1999

Re: New guy here

Post by Thorlick » Tue Apr 14, 2020 6:25 pm

Regarding broken Oak Spokes: The broken spoke guy was Ralph Ricks. I don't know where he got the oak spokes, but he did switch back to hickory. He used to tow his car by hooking it to the hitch on his Jaguar and then towing it on all fours. As I recall he got the steering turned and the sidewise forces on a front wheel snapped a bunch of spokes causing the collapse.

If a wheel collapses in use you are looking at a possible roll over. I recall a broken wheel/rollover of a touring a few years ago. I read there was a fatality. To avoid this I suggest turning only hickory spokes or do what I do... buy spokes from a reputable dealer. I get mine from Langs. Steve Lang has a local turn good straight grain Hickory. Out of 48 spokes I rejected only one because the grant wasn't perfectly stright. They didn't mind replacing that one... didn't even want me to return the bad one.

Other than RD's and that one touring car (I think it was a failure due to a problem with aftermarket shock absorbers) I have never heard of a model T wheel failure like that. I suggest that Dave check his wheels and make sure everything is tight and just drive it!

Regarding the shop manual, that is the one you need. It is available inexpensively as a paperback from most of the vendors.

IMHO,TH
Terry Horlick, Penn Valley, CA
1927 Mountain Patrol Vehicle from the Los Angeles City Fire Department (L.A.F.D.)
1912 Model T Ford English Station Omnibus


jiminbartow
Posts: 2193
Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 10:55 pm
First Name: James
Last Name: Patrick
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926 Coupe
Location: Bartow, FL
MTFCA Number: 50126
Board Member Since: 2001

Re: New guy here

Post by jiminbartow » Wed Apr 15, 2020 11:24 am

Ralph’s post was in 2011 and can be found in the attached thread. Ralph was very knowledgeable and his contributions always taught me a lot. He was taken too soon, by a very cruel disease called ALS and is missed: www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/179374/256114.html. Jim Patrick

User avatar

Steve Jelf
Posts: 6452
Joined: Fri Jan 04, 2019 9:37 pm
First Name: Steve
Last Name: Jelf
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1923 touring and a few projects
Location: Parkerfield, Kansas
MTFCA Number: 16175
MTFCI Number: 14758
Board Member Since: 2007
Contact:

Re: New guy here

Post by Steve Jelf » Wed Apr 15, 2020 12:30 pm

Terry remembers correctly that the fatal rollover was attributed to the failure of an aftermarket shock absorber/perch. The executive summary of the wreck says the incident began with separation of the left front tire and rim from the wheel at about 30 mph, causing the front wheels to whip left. The summary attributes the wheel separation to a sudden loss of air, but I wonder if it might have been failure of the rivets holding the rim to the felloe. I've certainly seen (and replaced) wheels with loose rivets and rims. The report doesn't mention spoke failure. It concludes that the sideways wheels put rearward stress on the front axle assembly, breaking the aftermarket perch and dropping the wishbone, which vaulted the car into a rollover.

Like many wrecks, I think this was a combination of failures. Without the wheel failure the perch would not have been stressed and broken, and without the defective perch the broken wheel may not have rolled the car. The lessons I take from this are (1) be sure the wheels are sound and (2) use good Ford perches.
The inevitable often happens.
1915 Runabout
1923 Touring


jiminbartow
Posts: 2193
Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 10:55 pm
First Name: James
Last Name: Patrick
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926 Coupe
Location: Bartow, FL
MTFCA Number: 50126
Board Member Since: 2001

Re: New guy here

Post by jiminbartow » Wed Apr 15, 2020 1:04 pm

I remember accidentally finding a bad front wheel while waiting for a friend to bring me a gallon of gas, after I ran out, close to home. I was walking around my T waiting, when I noticed a very fine, light brown coating on the black rim of my right front wheel. Upon closer examination, I found that it was a very fine wood dust that could have only come from one place. My spokes. I grabbed each spoke and pushed and pulled each from side to side and, instead of being tight, they all moved. When my friend delivered the gas, Instead of driving it home, we pushed the T home and, as I pushed the car, while next to the front I heard a distinct click of each spoke as the wheel turned.

Had I not run out of gas, I could have had a very bad accident when those dry rotted spokes finally let go while cornering. Checking your spokes during a walk around should be a routine each time you drive your T. Things of this Importance and magnitude should not be discovered by accident. The three things to watch for are: 1. A fine brown powder coating your rim. 2. Spokes that can be moved when shaken and 3. A distinct clicking sound when the wheel turns.

I did not drive it again until I made a Regan spoke press, bought new hickory spokes from Snyder’s and changed out the spokes on that wheel. The following thread document the generally accepted way of replacing the spokes in your 21” wheel: www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/179374/183733.html. Jim Patrick


jiminbartow
Posts: 2193
Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 10:55 pm
First Name: James
Last Name: Patrick
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926 Coupe
Location: Bartow, FL
MTFCA Number: 50126
Board Member Since: 2001

Re: New guy here

Post by jiminbartow » Wed Apr 15, 2020 3:02 pm

I just received my Snyder’s catalog in the mail that is full of Model T and Model A parts and literature. It will help you to go to www.snydersantiqueauto.com and order their 245 page catalog. When I was just getting started, thumbing through a Model T parts catalog and reading about and becoming familiar with the parts and seeing all that was available was very educational and helped teach me about my Model T. Jim Patrick
Attachments
7AEE59E1-354E-45FC-BF98-48086D343522.jpeg
8B218DFD-45E2-49F4-A6C2-6DDB9E7529C5.jpeg


Topic author
Wags70ss
Posts: 12
Joined: Tue Apr 07, 2020 9:36 pm
First Name: Dave
Last Name: wagner
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: T14711755GA
Location: Kansas City Missouri

Re: New guy here

Post by Wags70ss » Thu Apr 16, 2020 6:45 pm

Here's a better picture of my carb. How difficult are they to rebuild? Also a picture of one of the tires and wheels.
Attachments
new camera photos 2169.jpg
new camera photos 2172.jpg
new camera photos 2170.jpg


jiminbartow
Posts: 2193
Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 10:55 pm
First Name: James
Last Name: Patrick
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926 Coupe
Location: Bartow, FL
MTFCA Number: 50126
Board Member Since: 2001

Re: New guy here

Post by jiminbartow » Fri Apr 17, 2020 10:48 am

Not difficult at all with a rebuild kit containing the gaskets, and new needle valve and seat and the T-1 Model T Ford Service Manual to walk you through step by step. You will definitely need that manual, so, if you haven’t ordered it already... Jim Patrick

PS. I see a screen door spring and some extra linkage hooked up to the carb going straight back under the firewall. Is that for a gas pedal? If so, that was an accessory, not original to the T. Original throttle was a lever located on the steering column under the steering wheel.

User avatar

Steve Jelf
Posts: 6452
Joined: Fri Jan 04, 2019 9:37 pm
First Name: Steve
Last Name: Jelf
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1923 touring and a few projects
Location: Parkerfield, Kansas
MTFCA Number: 16175
MTFCI Number: 14758
Board Member Since: 2007
Contact:

Re: New guy here

Post by Steve Jelf » Fri Apr 17, 2020 11:37 am

From the brass screw on top I assume the carb is a Kingston, probably L-4. There should be a tag on the far side of the top to tell you about that. Kits and individual parts are available. The gasket that comes with a new float valve may be too hard to seal. I make my own gasket to use there. In addition to the Service Manual, there is a carburetor book available from MTFCA.
The inevitable often happens.
1915 Runabout
1923 Touring


bpresslylsmo
Posts: 21
Joined: Sat Mar 09, 2019 5:14 pm
First Name: Bob
Last Name: Pressly
Location: Lees Summit, MO
MTFCA Number: 30504

Re: New guy here

Post by bpresslylsmo » Tue Jul 13, 2021 3:52 pm

RumblingThunder wrote:
Sun Apr 12, 2020 3:15 am
Hi Dave, Welcome to the Model T world. It's great fun and as you have seen many good folks will join in to give you help. The Kansas City Chuggers is the local Model T club and we affiliate with the MTFCA and the MTFCI. We of course are not meeting because of the virus, but you can visit our website for information about us. Our webmaster and President is recovering from surgery so it is not real current but you can get some idea of what we attempt to do. There are several members with '26-'27 coupes in the club. I am one of them. The website is: www.kcchuggers.com. When we start meeting again we would be very happy if you would come out and see if you'd like to join us.
PS Don't get too hasty about replacing the tires - they will probably get you around until you get ready to do some touring.
Hi Dave,
The KC Chuggers are resuming monthly meetings in Aug. 2021. You can find details about the time and place on our website: www.kcchuggers.com.
We would be very happy if you would come out and see if you'd like to join us.
Bob Pressly


Norman Kling
Posts: 4041
Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2019 1:39 pm
First Name: Norman
Last Name: Kling
Location: Alpine California

Re: New guy here

Post by Norman Kling » Tue Jul 13, 2021 4:21 pm

Steve has said if the same number is stamped on the frame rail that is on the registration it HAS the original engine. Note, the number should be stamped on the side of the engine block right above where the water pump is bolted to the block. Sometimes, the engine has been changed without changing the number on the registration. So, all three places should have the same number. Even so, some after market engines came without a number stamped on them and so you could either have one without any number on it or an engine on which the original number has been ground off and re-stamped with the number on the registration. However it doesn't matter anyway as long as the number on the engine and the registration are the same.
Norm


Norman Kling
Posts: 4041
Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2019 1:39 pm
First Name: Norman
Last Name: Kling
Location: Alpine California

Re: New guy here

Post by Norman Kling » Tue Jul 13, 2021 5:09 pm

Yes, you do have an accessory gas pedal to the right of the brake. This is not original equipment. When you get used to shifting with the left pedal, and using the throttle lever on the steering column, you will find it is kind of like using automatic transmission and cruise control! If you have an accessory transmission such as a Ruckstell or Warford, you might find the throttle lever useful because you need your right hand for shifting.
Another thing I noticed which is different, is an idler pulley on the fan belt. I am not sure why it was placed, but with the 27 fan pulley, the adjustment is made by rotating the eccentric fan bracket behind the fan pulley. When you adjust the belt, be careful to turn the eccentric in such a way the belt doesn't interfere with the spark advance on the timer. This is also somewhat dependent on using the correct belt length. This length would differ from the stock length without the water pump.
Hopefully, by this time, you might have already gotten your car running and found some club members in your area who will help you and get you acquainted with the peculiarities of the Model T.
Norm


Dan Haynes
Posts: 432
Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2019 10:37 am
First Name: Dan
Last Name: Haynes
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: several
Location: Lodi, CA

Re: New guy here

Post by Dan Haynes » Tue Jul 13, 2021 9:38 pm

Hi, Dave -

It's always great to welcome new people into the flock. I hope you get a lot of pleasure and satisfaction from the coupe, it looks like a solid one.

One thing I think I see in the photos is the tilt of your front axle, or the lack of tilt. Normally the axle would "recline" with the top of the spindle noticeably leaned back. The tilt is provided by the spring perches and, as you already know, the car has Hassler shocks (I think they're great, they make a car ride like a baby buggy). It looked to me like the Ford leaf springs are twisted forward a little and that drew my eye to the spindles. The spring perches have to be turned in their holes for the Hassler geometry and, unless they are also swapped side-to-side, they will give negative caster.

The benefit the positive caster gives is it makes the car want to go straight. It will resist a little going into a turn, but it will almost straighten it self out as you come out of the turn. It makes easier to take on trips, unless you're driving in curvy mountain roads.

Not only does negative caster does not offer those benefits, it provides the opposite effect; the car will drive squirrelly, darting around. It's exhausting to drive one like that because you can never let your guard down, expecting the next jerk on the steering wheel. I know of at least one recent rollover crash (everyone survived) in a brass car because negative caster yanked the wheel out of the driver's hands and a front wheel collapsed.

I'm sure the forum guys will have good photos of how the axle should look.
"The further a society drifts from truth, the more it will hate those who speak it." -George Orwell

User avatar

Steve Jelf
Posts: 6452
Joined: Fri Jan 04, 2019 9:37 pm
First Name: Steve
Last Name: Jelf
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1923 touring and a few projects
Location: Parkerfield, Kansas
MTFCA Number: 16175
MTFCI Number: 14758
Board Member Since: 2007
Contact:

Re: New guy here

Post by Steve Jelf » Wed Jul 14, 2021 12:20 am

I'm sure the forum guys will have good photos of how the axle should look.

I don't have a photo handy but see Page 45 in the Service Manual for an explanation and a picture.
The inevitable often happens.
1915 Runabout
1923 Touring


speedytinc
Posts: 3814
Joined: Fri Feb 12, 2021 12:24 pm
First Name: john
Last Name: karvaly
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 14/15 wide track roadster. 23 touring, 27 roadster pickup, 20ish rajo touring
Location: orange, ca
MTFCA Number: 14383
Board Member Since: 2020

Re: New guy here

Post by speedytinc » Wed Jul 14, 2021 9:02 am

Steve Jelf wrote:
Wed Jul 14, 2021 12:20 am
I'm sure the forum guys will have good photos of how the axle should look.

I don't have a photo handy but see Page 45 in the Service Manual for an explanation and a picture.
The proper spring perches, in the proper side have a bend to give that caster. If Turning them around for Hasslers, they would have to be swapped side to side also.
The T1 service manual offers conflicting specs for the amount of caster. There is a dimension & an angle. Trigging the angle gives a very different upper spindle spacing. I usually set that difference @ 3/8". See manual. I have used as much as 5/8" for personal use.(Sure tracks nice down the freeway)
Its very common to find a T with the perches backwards. (axle backwards)
I recently worked over a front end. Final check to be the caster & toe in. Caster was 0. Looked close. Axle had 2 right side perches. That was a new one. Replaced it. All in spec now.


John Codman
Posts: 1176
Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2019 10:27 am
First Name: John
Last Name: Codman
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1927 Youring
Location: Naples, FL 34120

Re: New guy here

Post by John Codman » Wed Jul 14, 2021 10:18 am

Welcome to the hobby! That looks like a nice beginning. I will jump into the same boat with those who say the water pump is likely a band-Aid to try to solve other problems. If the cooling system is clean I will almost guarantee that the radiator is bad. Is it a round tube or a flat tube? (Look closely at the radiator and see if the vertical tubes are round). If they are, the radiator is either original or an older replacement. If you plan to drive the car much, bite the bullet and buy a new Berg's flat-tube and yank the water pump. You will not have any overheating issues. I drive my '27 here in Sunny (not today) Florida with the temperature in the mid-90's and it runs cool. Get the car running - check the gas tank to see if it's clean. If not you will have to pull the tank, which is not a fun project on an "improved car" (26 and '27). Have the tank cleaned and then check for spark at the spark plugs. I will assume that the car has not been converted to 12 volts, so put in a known good battery and see if the ignition coils buzz when you turn the key switch to battery. If not, just press the starter button. It depends what the position of the timer is as to whether the coils buzz or not.. If you can get the coils to buzz the engine will probably run. Lastly - and there may be some disagreement here, but I would get the horn off the radiator support rod when you can; it was moved to that location to allow room for the water pump. The radiator rod was not designed to support the weight of a horn.
Have fun and keep us posted!

User avatar

Steve Jelf
Posts: 6452
Joined: Fri Jan 04, 2019 9:37 pm
First Name: Steve
Last Name: Jelf
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1923 touring and a few projects
Location: Parkerfield, Kansas
MTFCA Number: 16175
MTFCI Number: 14758
Board Member Since: 2007
Contact:

Re: New guy here

Post by Steve Jelf » Wed Jul 14, 2021 10:27 am

...some after market engines came without a number stamped on them...

All Ford engines came from the factory numbered. Bare blocks were unnumbered, presumably to be stamped with the number of the block they replaced.
The inevitable often happens.
1915 Runabout
1923 Touring

User avatar

TRDxB2
Posts: 5373
Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2019 4:56 pm
First Name: Frank
Last Name: Brandi
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: Speedster (1919 w 1926)
Location: Moline IL
Board Member Since: 2018

Re: New guy here

Post by TRDxB2 » Wed Jul 14, 2021 11:48 am

One thing you need to decide is where you want to go with the restoration: museum piece; factory correct; period correct(aftermarket accessories); "excuse me, its my Model T". You can also progress from one state to the other to get to where you want to go.
The aftermarket water pumps of the day did little to move fluids once the operating temperature was reached - most were just sinning propeller. If you need a radiator, no question that a Berg is the way to go. Model T aluminum radiators are for "T" Bucket hot rods water inlets/outlets corresponding to engines used. The beehive springs are Hassler shock absorbers - there was a different style designed for 1926/27 (i.e. Pancake) , mostly for the rear spring perches needed, but the beehives will work on the front. You need to be careful in removing them as they are under load. The front Hassler's perches were pointed outward. The beehive style required them to also be swapped from side to side as mentioned above. They should have the boss on top of the perch pointed back to the engine. Learn to search the forum for your answers to your questions - the SEARCH option in this version of MTFCA only looks at the 2019 & onward discussions. Use GOOGLE and add MTFCA to the end of query, Like This: Hassler beehive MTFCA
This is a good reference about them http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/50 ... 1426168045
This attachment shows the front perches in their normal position, no Hasslers, and what needs to be done for the beehive Hasslers. Th Pancake style have a different requirement (just spun outward in place, no swapping, because the lever arm was designed to include the necessary tilt).
perch swap for beehive.jpg
The past is a great place and I don't want to erase it or to regret it, but I don't want to be its prisoner either.
Mick Jagger


John Codman
Posts: 1176
Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2019 10:27 am
First Name: John
Last Name: Codman
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1927 Youring
Location: Naples, FL 34120

Re: New guy here

Post by John Codman » Wed Jul 14, 2021 11:59 am

I reread almost all of the posts on this thread and respectfully disagree with one thing that was mentioned. I looked at the photos of your tires and noticed that the tire was badly cracked. I would move the car around the yard with them (I'm assuming that all are in similar condition) but would not take the car out on the road with them. I also saw that someone said that you need a special tool to get the tires off the rims. You do not. I have changed all five tires on my '27 and with a couple of big screwdrivers you can get the tires off. With your mechanical experience it should not be a problem to remove the tire from the rim. You will figure it out.


Scott_Conger
Posts: 6420
Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 11:18 am
First Name: Scott
Last Name: Conger
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: '13, '15, '19, '23
Location: Clark, WY
Board Member Since: 2005

Re: New guy here

Post by Scott_Conger » Wed Jul 14, 2021 2:21 pm

John

if you're removing and installing tires on split rims and are able to expand the rims to lock by just using a couple large screwdrivers, then you've been very lucky and just haven't met the right rim.
Scott Conger

Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny

NH Full Flow Float Valves
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured


John Codman
Posts: 1176
Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2019 10:27 am
First Name: John
Last Name: Codman
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1927 Youring
Location: Naples, FL 34120

Re: New guy here

Post by John Codman » Thu Jul 15, 2021 11:37 am

Scott_Conger wrote:
Wed Jul 14, 2021 2:21 pm
John

if you're removing and installing tires on split rims and are able to expand the rims to lock by just using a couple large screwdrivers, then you've been very lucky and just haven't met the right rim.
There are at least three different styles of rims on my '27, and none were a problem. Perhaps there are "improved car" rims where this cannot be done, but I have yet to meet one (including one new one from Lang's). I am referring to seriously big screwdrivers.


Scott_Conger
Posts: 6420
Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 11:18 am
First Name: Scott
Last Name: Conger
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: '13, '15, '19, '23
Location: Clark, WY
Board Member Since: 2005

Re: New guy here

Post by Scott_Conger » Thu Jul 15, 2021 11:48 am

I'm thinking that putting on new tires may not be the challenge, but my limited experience is repairing tubes on old tires which at least for me, can be cause to lose one's religion even with a spreader.

Personally I hate split rims (based on limited experience) and am glad I don't own a car that has them.

BTW, I can pretty much picture your screwdrivers...they would indeed have to be big :D
Scott Conger

Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny

NH Full Flow Float Valves
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured

User avatar

Steve Jelf
Posts: 6452
Joined: Fri Jan 04, 2019 9:37 pm
First Name: Steve
Last Name: Jelf
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1923 touring and a few projects
Location: Parkerfield, Kansas
MTFCA Number: 16175
MTFCI Number: 14758
Board Member Since: 2007
Contact:

Re: New guy here

Post by Steve Jelf » Thu Jul 15, 2021 10:31 pm

When folks buy a Model T they often assume what they find on it is normal, or "correct". I made that mistake, but before long I realized that in 100 years many T's have suffered "improvements". This seems especially true of wheels. A 1926 or 1927 Ford may have drop center wire wheels that take 21" balloon tires, or wooden split-rim wheels that also take 21" balloon tires, or wood wheels with 30 x 3½ demountable clincher rims, or wood wheels with 30 x 3½ non-demountable clincher rims. There were even a few 30 x 3½ clinchers with steel spokes. All these various wheels were used in the twenties, and they do get switched around, so any given T may or may not be rolling around on the kind of wheels it wore when it left the factory. There's a lot to learn about wheels, and a good source for a lot of it is Bruce McCalley's Model T Encyclopedia. http://dauntlessgeezer.com/DG80.html
The inevitable often happens.
1915 Runabout
1923 Touring

User avatar

Novice
Posts: 583
Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2019 12:25 pm
First Name: Jim
Last Name: Davis
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926 Touring. 1923/26 Open Express. 1920 depot hack
Location: Tomball,Texas
MTFCA Number: 49832
MTFCI Number: 24686
Board Member Since: 2017

Re: New guy here

Post by Novice » Fri Jul 16, 2021 3:10 am

thumbnail.jpg
thumbnail.jpg (26.2 KiB) Viewed 8287 times
Be sure Your car has a inline fuse between the floor starter switch and the terminal block on the fire wall. some old timers hate fuses. I hate fires. and with a 93 year old electrical system You can't be too careful. first night I had My first T and turned on the headlights sparks shot out of the headlight switch. red glow in the switch and burnt smell in the night air. now all three of my Ts have fuses. I have fuse holder mounted at fire wall terminal block for ease of access in checking fuse and disconnecting it when working on electrical system. yes there is about 18 inches of un fuse wire going to the foot switch. but I take that bet as opposed to lying on Your back under the car or pulling the floor board. I disconnect the negative battery when the car is not in use as extra 100% protection.

Post Reply Previous topicNext topic