MTFCA Forum

I have a set of floating hubs still in the box with instruction. Would someone please tell me if it is missing parts? I am going to put them up for sale.

Can't read the paperwork - who built them ?

Those are the identical hubs that are in my car.
I was told they’re an early version without the snap-ring on the outside.
No, nothing is missing to my knowledge.

The instructions were written by Jess Bonar, Florida.

Thank you both!

Thanks for the info, Robert !

TBones12 wrote: ↑

Sat May 02, 2020 5:50 pm

The instructions were written by Jess Bonar, Florida.

Thank you both!

I knew Jess before he moved to FL
He was a member of the Greater Akron club.

Snyder's is always good about putting the instructions with the product details. Not sure if these apply
https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/Reso ... .11-18.pdf
But you should start from here and pick the proper product- VIEW DETAILS then select the INSTRUCTIONS
https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/Sear ... loating%20

If I was fitting those, I would be using a grub screw to hold them in place. Either modify a grease cup to take the grub screw or drill the underside of the axle housing to take same.

Allan from down under.

They are missing the external O ring groove. Installed as they are, they will almost certainly leak (even if installed with a bunch of RTV), which would make future removal difficult.
Don’t worry about any “grub screw “. The really remote possibility of a axle failure and you will roll to a stop looong before the sleeve pulls out because the O ring friction will hold it.

Les, I have never made floating hubs with the external O ring. The rough machining of the inside of the axle tube does not lend itself to a good seal. nor does the fact that the axle tubes vary in diameter. Rather, I fit the spiggots using red Loktite flange sealant, which does not set like RTV and thus does not give problems when removing them.
If the spiggots are fitted independently of the wheel, there is no way to check whether the bearing is fully located on the end of the spiggot when the wheel is fitted. I suggest that the bearing and carrier is fitted to the wheel, the spiggot fitted to the bearing and the whole assembly then fitted to the axle housings. This way the bearing is fully engaged on the spiggot, the spiggot is set at the optimal depth because variations in hub/axle taper are accounted for, and this optimal setting can be set/held by a grub screw. Then the wheel can be pulled in the ordinary way, leaving the spiggot in a set position.

Others do do it differently.
Allan from down under.

Just remember these are not safety hubs, just floating hubs. If the axle breaks, the wheel will still come off.

Mark Gregush wrote: ↑

Sun May 03, 2020 1:00 am

Just remember these are not safety hubs, just floating hubs. If the axle breaks, the wheel will still come off.

That is correct....
I feel that the likelihood of that is greatly decreased, since the weight is moved from the axle shaft to the housing.
The ones in my car have been in the for close to 50 years without any incident and no leaks until the seals let go.
I reused everything when I rebuilt the Ruckstell recently. I did replace one axle that was worn a little under specs at the bearing surface.

I wonder if you could move the stubs out of the tube a 1/4" and add grooves and ring clips?

Mark, if an axle breaks, you just need time to pull up before the wheel parts company. That can be achieved simply by using a centre punch to dump some of the spiggot into the machined rounded edge of the bearing centre. It only needs a little to be effective. It will then need to be pressed off if the occasion arises for any reason.

Allan from down under.