MTFCA Forum

Ok,does anyone know what this panel may have been for? It has a similar to a T switch that I think should work. But gauges,are mounted with 3 screws and nothing T matches them.
I was kinda sorda wanting to use this on the speedster because I want a amp gauge and I want to put a temp gauge on it as well.So 2 holes for gauges .I had the dash light in my stash. Switch is kinda soft feeling,I don't know which way is on or off but it feels like vibration would be enough to turn it on if down is on.

Planning to be a bit unorthodox on my speedster too, still planning and parts gathering. The dash is a 1926 Dodge, I liked the layout but more important is the top curve which I'm after for the body. Intending to add a SW water temp gauge in the open hole. Just got the switch and had to find a spacer (copper will nickle plate it later) to fill the gap. Ill cut out a Model T amp bezel to fit over the switch and use hex headed bolts from the front side. The amp and water temp gauges held in place with a hose clamps unless the u-brackets that come with them work. Refurbishing several NorthEast speedometers will be using a REO face-plate when done. Need to see the back of the switch. Chances are you may be able to replace parts with what suppliers have for Model T's.

Thank you for the input.
I aint quite ready for the switchs of course but I need to be looking up parts and figuring out what I will be using.I forgot to take a picture of the backside,I will get that done tommorow.
The cowl has a stock 26 dash plate somewhere in my stash but,eh, why not make it a little different? A speedster is not supposed to be a cookie cutter car.

I think Maxwell used one like that.

Only image of a Maxwell gauge cluster I could find on google image is a 25 and it is different but I will keep looking.Forgot to take a pic of the back of the switch today. DUH my memory is not what it used to be.

here is the back of the switch.

Reason for looking at the back was to see if it might match to ones used by a T. Looks very similar except for the connect with the red circle and I'm not sure what it says. Now the picture of the T contact disk is a clip type but the also have a pin type which you may have (can't tell by the photo). You should be able to rotate the contact disk to see the parts inside like the picture of the repair kit (no one has repair kits either last time I checked). The looseness you mentioned could be caused by worn contacts, maybe solved by lifting them up a bit. The key tumbler looks the same as what the vendors sell for the T but that repair needs to be done with caution. Also what are the dimensions for the gauges

That post is for a ground - GND, Frank - you need it for a wood dashboard.

That GND is for testing the switch on the Clum styles and some other, but not all have that GRND.

Don't need to ground the switch mounted on wood.
The switch carries + hot and directs it where to go.

The terminals on the rear are hot from the Yellow battery wire, keep them apart and insulated from metal dash, wood dash would be safer

It actually does not have a key,it just has a knob there instead.
It has the pin type back.