MTFCA Forum

I had a flat my21 touring. In trying to break the bead I tried using c clamps hammer also made a lever fulcum against the shop wall all to no avail. I finally took it to a tire shop and they used their hydraulic bead breaker. My question is, is there a method one can use at home to break the bead?

It's usually not that hard to do. Things that can make it difficult are, tires that have been mounted for a very long time and have rusted to the rims, or rims that have been driven on with no tires. In the latter case, the rim edges get rolled under, thereby collapsing the "C" cross section of the rim to make the tire bead a tight squeeze within the rim edge.

To break the bead, I usually lay the rim on the ground, put a wood block under the rim, then either hit the tire sidewall with a rubber mallet, or stomp on the tire with my foot to roll the bead out of the rim. Once started, tire irons can be used to get the rest free, if needed.

I broke the bead on a tire that had been mounted forever and the rubber was hard by chucking it my bench top vise. I placed the tire in the vise until the rim was at the edge of the jaws, then tightened the vise and pinched the old tire together, and once it was secure I rocked the rim back and forth until you could see the tire release from the rim at the vise jaws, rotate the tire a short distance and do it again. One trip around the whole tire in the vise and the tire was free from the rim.

Any spray lubricant will help immensely once it seeps into the bead area.

I have put them on the ground and run over it with my car keeping the tire close to the rim, it may take two or three tries.

WD40 works pretty good when helping break a tough bead.

I recently did my 15's 30 x 3 1/2 tires and used c clamps to break the bead and a Saw's All to cut them off.

A large Jorgensen double screw type wood clamp will easily break the bead seal. Just put the clamp on each side of the tire with the clamp ends close to the bead and tighten. This will squeeze the tire and pop the bead on both sides. Do this several times around the tire to release the bead all around. Jim Patrick

I had a flat on a 50YO clincher tire. I drove the car the last mile home at a slow pace. The tire was warm and pliable by the time I got home with no rim damage. It was as easy to remove as a new tire.

George,

I have purchased and use a Harbor Freight Tire Bead Breaker, Item # 92961 that is $54.99. It works well and hangs on my shop wall when not in use.
Sorry for the rotated image of hanging bead breaker. It is soooo difficult to get it to hand sideways.

Also there are sets of tire Irons, (short 10" $40.00 and long 16" $50.00), sold by Bud Jonas of Belding, MI 6one6seven94zero433 that are excellent, in my opinion, so you don't ruin a tire in the process of removal or installation. I also recommend the valve stem puller to ease tire installation.


Best of luck,
Dom

I use heavy duty leather work shoes, and put my heals against the rim and start stomping. Once one portion breaks loose, the rest comes off easily.

IF ALL ELSE FAILS AND YOU KNOW SOMEONE WITH A CAR LIFT A 2X4 PLACED JUST RIGHT UNDER THE LIFT CLOSE TO THE PART WHERE THE ARMS ATTACH AND STEPPING ON THE OTHER SIDE OF THE WHEEL, THIS WORKS EVERY TIME FOR ME, [USE YOUR HEAD HERE, THE 2X4 NEEDS TO BE A STOUT ONE.

I have used a bumper jack under the hitch on my pickup. Most here know what a bumper jack is but you have to explain it to younger folks.

My knees won't take the abuse of the concrete floor anymore so I purchased this trick tire mounting machine & it has a bead breaker attached - even does wire wheels !!!

Man, Steve, you have ALL the toys!

Finally figured out to "work smarter - not harder" ! Been getting up & down off the concrete way too long !

What make is that tire mounting machine? Thanks Dan

"No-Mar" motorcycle machine w/additional attachments.

I tried perry Kate suggestion on using a shop vise on another tire for breaking the bead and it worked great. Thanks perry