MTFCA Forum

I found my radiator is leaking from the upper inlet where it's attached to the top tank... it's a brass radiator, I think I can see where the leak is... I read the (1925) instructions on how to repair this (on a later radiator)... is there anything I need to be caredul of when dealing with a brass radiator? Can I somewhat follow the service instructions and resolder this, or are there issues I need to take into account.

There's no way I can swing a new radiator (not with other parts commitments I have), plus it feels like I'm selling the T short if I can't fix it, but I don't want to get in over my head so far I ruin the radiator I have...

So... Advice? Clues? Info? Cautions?

Thanks!

A couple of years ago now, I had a leak in that area and patched it with Ultra Black just like I had repaired a freeze crack on the side of the block. still holding leak free.

Is the neck cast brass? Or cast iron? Or formed steel (not likely on a brass radiator)?
Cast brass is fairly easy to solder. Cast iron is not. Especially with the "eco-friendly" solders available these days. Even if cast iron was soldered before, it is not uncommon for the cast iron and old solder to separate, and getting the old now contaminated cast iron to "tin" can be really tricky.
I have been soldering for about sixty years now, although I do not anymore do a lot of it, I still have issues with soldering things like cast iron.

Many here will disagree with me on this. But on some things, modern chemistry can be a good fix. I have repaired several radiators over the years using epoxy (or J B Weld), and had very good results with those repairs. One nice thing about epoxy, is that an oxy/acetylene torch (even a good propane torch) can burn away the epoxy almost anytime you want in the future to do a "proper" solder repair. No harm, no foul (except for the smell of the burning epoxy, sit upwind!

I'm not sure on the USA built radiators but Canadian had top and bottom spouts made from cast iron, that you will not solder with an iron, needs to be a naked flame. To do it right, the spout would need to be removed, cleaned, prep with the right acids and tinned correctly in order to get a sealing bond to brass.
Really a job for a radiator service and an old boy who remembers the art of soldering cast iron
As others have stated, a bonding sealer will be best to get you out of trouble, as the T cooling system has no pressure just need one that can handle temp.

I have a steel radiator that had similar problem. The neck on my 24 separated on one side of my radiator. It's a well used radiator so as an experiment I used JB weld to re attach it. I cleaned the area with a rotary wire brush, some fine sand paper, and acetone. I also pre heated the metal a bit with a heat gun and used the heat gun to smooth the JB weld. It moves like peanut butter when warm. So far this has lasted with no problems. Probably would work with a brass radiator but not a show piece. I painted the radiator black after patching this and numerous other leaks.

JB weld does really work in most cases. Will work fine for a radiator repair. Make sure you clean the area well and let it set up a couple of days. It will be fine.

The instructions for radiators are in two places. The Ford Radiator Book, and the Ford Service book. The lower radiator outlet was always cast iron, and the late ones were tin plated. The late inlets were formed brass.

If possible it would be good to have the area to repaired to be as flat or level as possible. That means removing the radiator and laying it in such a way where the area is easy to get to and repair.
It may be possible to repair it in an upright position depending on where the leak is but it’s not as easy to be sure. Something to consider.

I repaired mine 5 years ago with this and no leaks as well... I also did my fuel Tank. It is arround $9. Just clean well the area with a brass brush as well and in 1 hour is fixed. But I recommend waiting 24h00. When I did my Gaz tank, I do not removed the gas and I put the paste directly on the leak and waiting 5 minutes with my hand with a little pression and it was fixed. Look like unreal but it is working.

Is it truly the water inlet that's leaking, or is it where the overflow pipe comes out of the upper tank? They're in close proximity to one another and it's sometimes hard to tell. From my observation, the overflow tube is more likely to spring a leak than the water inlet, (which has a very robust connection with the upper tank, versus the overflow tube which can vibrate a bit and break the solder joint).

Don’t think I’ve seen that Permatex product before at the auto parts places. Good to know they make it.