MTFCA Forum

Other that the extra extensions that were welded to the front, longer rear crossmember, and the possibly the brake quadrant, is there any differences in a 1926 frame from earlier ones?

I was thinking how one could modify a 26 frame to fit an earlier car, IF a regular frame could not be procured.

I was thinking the 26-27 frames are more desirable than the 17-25 frames. I know that’s not answering your question but seems they would bring more money at Chickasha a few years ago when I was going.
But wouldn’t you have to drill different holes for the earlier fender brackets since they are different for 26? That’s what I can remember.

I don't know all the differences, that's why the question comes to me. What all exactly would need to be changed?

Nothing was welded, all riveted. Besides the different brackets at the front that were part of the fender iron mounts, the rear cross member was longer/higher at the center along with different corner brackets. there were brackets also added along the side for the hood shelf/latches. The parts catalog list different side rails for 26/27, without side by side don't know if different holes for the brackets or? About the only thing that stayed the same was the front cross member for all years.

I've seen a frame that has a 26 rear cross member, but the extensions on the front were welded over the top of the existing frame. Maybe a backyard job?

There are important differences where the steering column attaches. The 26 frame is more “robust”(taller) and the bearing attachment holes are located differently. I learned this all “the hard way “!!

Will_Vanderburg wrote: ↑

Tue May 12, 2020 6:17 pm

I've seen a frame that has a 26 rear cross member, but the extensions on the front were welded over the top of the existing frame. Maybe a backyard job?

Yes! Or repair?

1925 frames were used for one year only. They have the same brake quadrant as the 1926-7. Early 25 frames still had the four holes, but the inner two were not used.

And you'd need to snip some off each end of the running board supports.

Allan from down under.

Looking over the frame on the 1925 Coupe, and sure enough, the frame has the 4 rivet holes for the quadrant, but only two are used with the later quadrant. Appears good teeth, but will see later, after removing the clutch/brake lever, as the pawl must be shot, the lever won't hold in position.

HOW BOUT THE RUNNING BOARD RACKETS ,

Will,

While I am sure there are minute differences...and some may even be functional. But the Hack that Jim in Lakehurst use to have started as a 27 chassis with demountable rims, he had early 23 running gear available in one of his sheds (fenders, splash shields, hood shelves, running boards, low hood and radiator), and he bought the 19-23 Hack body from Stolz while in Chickasa. He managed to put it all together and it looked like it was meant to be.

That Hack is now mine if you remember, and its down here in Florida now. You want pictures of any specific area, sing out and I'll get them to you or post them to you. The Hump in the rear frame caused him issue and he just cut a hole in the Hack to let the hump reach up through. I was able to fix that by buying a patch panel for a Model A hump and put it over the hole. Looks now like it was made that way.

I remember that hack. I drove it one day. So you live in Florida now?

Frames were made thicker for '26 due to the heavier bodies of improved cars. My '26 measures .200" thick.

self explanatory. Taken from a MTFCA discussion

Dimensions

Thanks all.

My particular question was answered by my research. Thanks again

some of those above pics I can't get to zoom.
I do know if you waddle over to a 26 frame with a 25 splash apron you will find the rear mounting hole for the apron to be 2 3/4 inchs further back on the 26 chassis. I know this because today I spent the better part of the day cutting the mounting tabs off the splash aprons and moving them back 2 3/4 inches to get the splash aprons to bolt on.