MTFCA Forum

Model T Adjusting Radius Rods under the car . Did not measure or adjust before installing my new rebuilt rearend , driveshift and radius rods so now can I do my adjusting now under the car.

Sure you can ! Measure center/center of hubcaps on one side, then the other. That should tell you which radius rod nut to adjust. It might

You want both radius rods adjusted to the same length, but you also want to make sure that you don't pull the axle tubes too far forward. The axle tubes should both end up at right angles to the driveshaft.

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Ken Kopsky, haven't seen that name in a long time.

I've got to admit, I've never "adjusted" my radius rods. What are you trying to accomplish? First, the 26/27 style can't be adjusted, which tells me Ford decided they don't need to be. For the pre-26 style, I bring the rear nuts within maybe a one turn of touching the torque tube flange, then tighten the front facing nuts. This puts a small pre-load on the rods, which I believe is all you need. Consider also, if you're trying to really move anything, (for some reason), you're most likely going to flex the torque tube which might just cause a bind in the front bushing or pinion bearing.

CudaMan wrote: ↑

Sat May 16, 2020 6:58 pm

The axle tubes should both end up at right angles to the driveshaft.

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If they are tending to be so far off as to be a problem, then there's other things that need to be addressed, like maybe a bent torque tube or axle tube. Being off just a bit hurts what exactly?

I follow Jerry's thoughts. If the axles are central in the housings, there's no bend there. I just tighten down the torque tube, run the back nuts up until the spring washer is almost flat, and then tighten the castle nut.

Allan from down under.

I also do the same as Jerry and Allan. When repairing a Differential I have made a tool to check that
the Axle Tubes are straight. With the Hyatt Bearing Sleeves removed I install 4 steel plugs that are bored to 2”
After bolting the two housings together a long bar is inserted in one end and pushed through and (hopefully) exits
the other side. I’m even happier if this can be done with the palm of my hand and able to rotate the bar also by hand.
Obviously, no point in doing this unless the Axles are central in the Tube in the first place. The Radius Rods are then
tightened to maintain that position. Alan

View this video and apply to your situation https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AfxWPsF4KhQ

I use construction nylon string pulled tight along one side of the car at a time, touching both sides surfaces of each front/back tire/wheel to make sure each axel is tracking. Adjust front steering doing each side at a time so nylon string touches outside faces of each tire/wheel close to center of axels as possible. String must touch 4 places total....forward and back outer surface of each front and back tire per side at the same time. Very simple method and takes little time to check rear end to front axel tracking alignment. Rear axel can then be adjusted in the car to bring axels in alignment. You don't even need a measuring tape....the string will not Lie! This will also tell you if the frame is "Dog Legged". Also, wheels need to run true for accuracy.

Les Von Nordheim

Good video of Steve sealing those axles shut. We need a good explanation like that of how to get those caps off. Not as easy as putting them on.