MTFCA Forum

Went to my accountant today and picked up my income tax filings so I can kiss some money goodbye
Pulled the big hill past Wolf Creek on old Rt-21 on the way home....hit the bottom at close to 50 and crested at about 28mph, in Ruckstell direct !!
Not bad for 3:1 gears ! Almost 85 degrees already, but she never got hot.

She's a looker and a runner Dave ! Mine will run almost 50, the T doesnt get hot but my wife does at that speed. Something about " slow this deathtrap down! " Only done it a couple times to see top end. I like sleeping in the house.

Finally decided to bite the bullet, pull the radiator and see if I can't get the leaky top tank fixed. I think it's just the inlet, not the tank top itself... but considering this hasn't been done in probably 30+ years, I forgot how much, um, "fun" it is... Still, I put Brassworks on speed dial... Since I figured the car will be "down" for a while...

Also... not necessarily what I've done TO my car, but where I park her is on a bed of pea gravel - great to hide leaks, miserable to work on, try putting a jack or jack stands or even rolling under the car on a creeper? Started looking at some of the old garage photos and came up with a hare-brained idea...

My neighbor got an order of lumber delivered (he's converting an attic into an office), and let me piggyback a dozen and a half pressure treated 2x12's onto the order... Spent a few days smoothing gravel and setting down wood... and now I have an actual floor under the car, one that won't be too freezing cold in the winter, and kinda sorta looks like an actual vintage garage floor...

And working on this thing is like paradise!!

...let me piggyback a dozen and a half pressure treated 2x12's onto the order...

If my figgerin' is right, that's 16½' wide. Should be plenty. Looking forward to seeing the new antique floor.

Steve Jelf wrote: ↑

Wed Jul 08, 2020 12:38 pm

When I saw Wolf Creek I thought of this. Somewhat different.

Not many wolves left around here, but plenty of coyotes, Steve.
Here’s a little bit about Wolf Creek in NE Ohio.

http://www.nefcoplanning.org/upper_wolf.html

At the top of the hill in my picture is The Wolf Creek Winery...
https://www.wineryatwolfcreek.com/

If wine is not your thing, there’s always the tavern. “Wine is fine, but liquor’s quicker”

Watch out for the ghosts.
The tavern was also a stop on the “Underground Railroad”....I was in the entrance to the tunnel before that went from a country store on the opposite corner. Kinda eerie.

“The tavern was also a very active underground railroad during the Civil War.

It’s a very small passageway about two feet by two feet, built out of sandstone, and a dirt tunnel that’s now collapsed since the intersection was built in the road,”

https://www.barbertonherald.com/2016/08 ... d-spirits/

Steve Jelf wrote: ↑

Wed Jul 08, 2020 1:12 pm

...let me piggyback a dozen and a half pressure treated 2x12's onto the order...

If my figgerin' is right, that's 16½' wide. Should be plenty. Looking forward to seeing the new antique floor.

18 feet, give or take, front to back, covering the parking slot just under 8' wide. I still have a couple issues to sort out (warpy boards) and re-smoothing the gravel underlayment) but the preliminary set up looks REALLY promising! Compared to what I had before, it's paradise... Add to that I can move boards from back to front, so if I need to, say, roll in a cherry picker or jack...

Pix as soon as I find my phone...

Installed a wrong engine along with a right license plate. Getting the firewall bracket bolts and nuts are going to be a bit of a challenge on the starter side!

Old axle with bad Babbitt thrust washer out and newly rebuilt Ruckstell In.

Replaced two worn thrust pins in axle housing, the pins allowed some wiggle of the washer.



Used drill jig that doubles as a drift to place the new pins.

Hammered in an E-Z out, then with wrench twist out the remains of the old pin.
In with the new.
Now snug washer on new pins.

Thought that it might be a good idea to replace the tires after 48 years. The tread was fine but there was lots of sidewall cracking. I can't believe how much better the ride is! Amazing what new rubber will do! Now that I'm retired, I take a ride 3 or 4 times a week.

Michael P ; for the oilpan arms I weld two pieces to the bolts [picture]
And for the firewall bolts I weld two bolts on one piece of iron [no picture]
Hope this help for the next time .
Toon

My pal and I have been building an extended wheelbase Express specifically for a long trip on dirt roads.
It's got a vintage Warford in it, so instead of shortening the torque tube we lengthened the frame.

This car originally had a left shift Ruckstell in it. That didn't work with the Warford, so we installed a center shifter. And it tangled with the Warford shifter. So a little heat and we moved it to a convenient location just to the right of the Warford shifter.


We used two '27 frames. Cut each one long so we only had one seam to weld up. The frames overlap for a section. You can make out the welds in this photo. And the two tractor mufflers are in place for the dual exhaust pipes to be run and brackets to be built.


The Ruckstell shift rod had to make a bend around the Warford, which really caused a lot of flexing. We tried thicker wall tubing, fewer bends, and nothing worked. We eventually settled on this thin wall, large diameter version that used the standard torque tube rod support bracket. There are heavy duty clevis ends and tie rod adjusters on both ends of the shift rod.


There's no good solutions for a dual runner exhaust manifold and a downdraft carb. Since we were going to be in the dirt and sand 100% of the time, and some deep water a few times, we wanted to move to a downdraft carb that was a little better protected. I decided to use a Holley 1904 from an early Ford Falcon with the 144ci engine. The venturi is fairly small, and it should be a good match for the Model T engine in a truck. Started with a Vaporizer intake and we made up the adapter manifold.


Finished body should look something like this. It's a flatbed that is extended over the tires with drop gates, and another storage box between the bed and the frame.

OT - Love that Holley one barrel carb! I had one on the slant six in my 1969 Plymouth Valiant years ago.

Original Ruckstell hand shifters were reversed on the TT chassis - the shift rod didn't cross over the torque tube.

I also have a 3 speed Warford with the Ruckstell.

RajoRacer wrote: ↑

Sat Jul 11, 2020 10:24 am

Original Ruckstell hand shifters were reversed on the TT chassis - the shift rod didn't cross over the torque tube.

We would have done exactly that, but we're using the Birdhaven rear disc kit and I mounted the master cylinder on the back of the Warford, which prevents the shift rod from going through that space.

Took the wife to supper wirh friends in the next town. It was a great day for a drive so we took the TT to the big city. Even stopped at yall mart. About a 35 to 40 mile round trip. All in one day.

Dallas, you have know idea how much it warms my heart to see that old gal being used regularly. Dave

Taking up two parking spaces there Mr Dallas. Afraid someone might scratch your new truck?

I have been driving the wheels off Dave. You come to The museum in Richmond and stop here and you can put some miles on it. I have no other T's close to go driving with so we can take the TT and the RPU and head out. I know a couple icecream places !

ABoer wrote: ↑

Fri Jul 10, 2020 3:28 pm

Michael P ; for the oilpan arms I weld two pieces to the bolts [picture]
And for the firewall bolts I weld two bolts on one piece of iron [no picture]
Hope this help for the next time .
ToonIMG_0633.JPG

Goes to show how putting 15 lbs in a 10 lbs bag works! I got a friend to come help. Taped one side of a box wrench and did a bit of poke and hope.
Getting the cotter pins in is a completely different conversation involving an increditamental amount of swearing!

Dallas, it's on our bucket list!!!! We were figuring on heading out to the Museum and your way this year until everything went hell in a handbasket. Dave

Our first drive ever was a few weeks ago and I discovered a bad rod knock. I adjusted the rods and went for our second drive yesterday, about 20 miles. The knock is gone but we experienced a death wobble at 12 mph in our driveway. My wife asked what that was, but not in a lady-like way. The rest of the ride was truly enjoyable and we made some new friends at the lake.

I've been researching the wobble causes and that is a high priority project. I know I have worn spindle bushings on the right side. I was hoping to replace both sides in the fall. That might happen sooner, though.

Thanks for the explanation, Jason !

Mark, that is hilarious! My wife said the same thing in the same mannor when we 1st drove ours and it done the death wobble. A similar statment was made when the rear axle started making a clunking noise going down the road. After many hours in the shop rebuilding the entire suspension and drivetrain, she really enjoys our drives.

This morning I took an elderly lady for a ride in the TT. She had been wanting a ride for some time but with her back issues and all the hot weather we held off till today. We drove about ten miles of back roads this morning in wonderful weather. She had a blast. Her enjoyment would have been well worth the effort but she sent me home with two freezer bags of bluegill. Her and her husband fish almost every day. I cant think of a better way to spend my birthday.

Been working on Elsie some, picked up a 26 touring back half from Model T Haven earlier this week mocked up mount on chassis to fabricate front sides and subframe from rear door pillars to cowl

On our second attempt, after an older battery nixed me on the first try the watchful eye and experienced hands of Nate checking the carb adjustments got a quick start for my 26 Fordor on our second try.

Initial start up after many years in a storage shed were smooth and quiet. Will get the radiator on and filled for a go through before a long awaited road test!

Pulled out the rear end and drive shaft for a first-time rebuild.

additional photos

The oldest grandson started the 14 for the first time this year and we went around the section Bud.

Great news Bud !

Thank"s Dallas,it was great!Bud.

This month has been slow go for me. I blame the heat. I'm still installing windows in the T. It's definitely a two person job but making work with one. Also experimenting with the chalk boards. I think I need to find an artist or a child for this.

Finally put the body back in the chassis! Just waiting on the fenders to come back from the painters.[image][/image]

Beautiful!

It is exciting to see that. The photos show off the 1910 style so well.
Thanks
Rich

I replaced my magneto post today, which is funny since my car doesn't even have a magneto. I bought the new post two years ago, before I knew that my car doesn't have a field coil. After I confirmed the missing magneto I decided not to replace the post. I figured that someone could use it some day.

Now that I have driven my car a total of 28 miles since acquisition, the top of the hogshead was covered in oil. Not only that but the floorboards were oily on the bottom and top. Oil seeped through the ship lap joints that I made and soaked the rubber floor mat. It's amazing how much oil came through the old mag post. Now I know why some people use a magneto post oil line.

I'm always amazed at how visually different the early T's are from the later black cars.

I totally agree; they are essentially the same vehicle but the body lines on all T's are visually pleasing no.matter the year or style; beautiful artwork!

Switched up from working on Doc, the '25 coupe and took look at rod caps in Dixie, the '27 touring. All this for the planned Michigan Jamboree that we were to go on, but yesterday was cancelled along with the rest of any fun things due to china covid.

Had heard so slight clatter on the road, and the rods hadn't been adj. since 2007. So with oil out, dropped the inspection cover and found #'s 1,2,and 3 to be wiggled with fingers, #4 was nice and tight.
Removed the caps, one at a time, and trimmed away one layer of the shims.
Something is real nice about the candle light when you are separating shims on the workbench.
Finally added a new trick to this ole man, used to have to get-up get-under, several times to hand crank over the engine to have the rods line up for access to the nuts, jeez, why didn't I think of that reflective thing before, that is now laying usefully under the chassis

All ready to button up, but waiting on new lock nuts, don't want to re-use the old ones that have been on and off for adjustment. Removed a shim a side and got the caps to be snug again, not too stiff to crank over. But when adding a strip of oiled newsprint, they did lock, so knew that amount of shims off is going to be better than the caps were before this morning
Dippers not placed yet, as waiting to get new lock nuts on Thurs.

Sub frame fitted to the Colonial Roadster - ready to build up the body....

Visited a T buddy today for help pressing off axle gears and installing them back on the new axle shafts.

Since I didn't have a big press, he helped with the chore. One gear came off the old axle like it should, the other needed some real pressing!

Gratifying to push down the new axle into the gear to bury those lock rings for good. Now on to finishing the rear end restoring.
On the way...... Ah, seated home!

I brought my first T (basket case) home on Sunday, and the frame was delivered today.

I drove south to Calgary with the hope of bringing home a few pieces, with the intention of collecting parts over time and hopefully build a speedster/racer in a year's time. Be careful what you wish for! To say that the gentleman I got these pieces from was generous and reasonable is an understatement. Antique car guys are the best guys, but Model T guys stand out from the rest in my opinion. He was quite happy to see a young guy with an interest in Ts, so he was very happy to help get me started.

The idea is work on it piece by piece (as I can't begin any major assembly yet as I don't have access to the garage space as of yet) and learn about the nitty-gritty of the construction, and hopefully by next fall, I'll be able to do some major building with the proper space.

If that's the case, I could have a Model A and a Model T before I turn 25! Never would I thought I could pull that off!

Good stuff Ryan....you should start a Build Thread for this project.

I waited thirty years to buy my first T.
Taking my time and enjoy the journey on the rear end rebuild.
Three years ago, I did not know the difference between a muffler and carburetor. I had to keep reminding myself that clockwise was tighten and counter-clockwise loosen.
It took me a long time to start this project due to an irrational fear of failure. I’m posting this because if I can do it anyone can!
Thank you Hank, Joe, and Doug for all of your helpful advice with this project.

Gene,

Take your time and double check everything and you’ll do fine.

You can do it!

Ed

I’m not happy with the motor in the 1914 touring. It runs well but ever since I broke the crank and installed a SCAT , I can hear a knock which I cannot Place. So I plan to remove the motor and check everything again. I suspect a twisted or bent rod.
Sooooo I have woken up the coupe so I still have a T to play with during the next few months. Changed the oil, cleaned the plugs, put in new gas and it started right up. There was a minor leak in the radiator, so I took it out and spent an hour or so soldering. Now that’s done I took it on my 16 mile test drive. Wow that motor is so smooth, runs great.
Not fast but pulls and pulls.
Next big tour in a couple of weeks.

Tony, a not uncommon occurrence when fitting a Scat crank is interference with the centre rear bolt on the inspection pan horse shoe, or the horseshoe itself at that point. I would investigate this before going much further.

Hope that's what it is for you.
Allan from down under.

Commenced assembly of the boot (trunk) area:
Sides are solid single slabs of NZ native Kauri timber. Strong light weight and fine grained. A pleasure to work with. The slabs been recycled from a 100+ year old bench top.

making a parcel tray behind the front seat above the petrol tank, should be secure for things that I don't want to get lost.

Gorgeous stuff Adrian.

I'm in awe of those who can make wood do things like this.

GEmering wrote: ↑

Fri Jul 17, 2020 12:32 pm

I waited thirty years to buy my first T.
Taking my time and enjoy the journey on the rear end rebuild.
Three years ago, I did not know the difference between a muffler and carburetor. I had to keep reminding myself that clockwise was tighten and counter-clockwise loosen.
It took me a long time to start this project due to an irrational fear of failure. I’m posting this because if I can do it anyone can!
Thank you Hank, Joe, and Doug for all of your helpful advice with this project.

Gene....I'm always reminded of something I've heard Jay Leno say a few times. I'm paraphrasing but it goes something like, "if a bunch of guys put it together with tools, then another guy with tools can take it apart, fix it and put it back together again.

Most of us learn by doing and it looks like that's what you're doing. Keep up the good work.

Tony, a not uncommon occurrence when fitting a Scat crank is interference with the centre rear bolt on the inspection pan horse shoe, or the horseshoe itself at that point.

Yes, you may have to grind a little off the horseshoe and/or bolt. I'm no great expert on this. It just happens to be something I've seen.

Yesterday was my wife and my wedding anniversary, but I still had time to slip out to the garage and check fit my brass baby Lincoln radiator cap on our 15 runabout. Looks good, and I think that the joke makes the most sense on a runabout!

Coil box refurb

My first attempt at brazing. I whipped up a license plate bracket

I finnaly finished installing the windows. It felt like it took forever because I had to keep adjusting everything to make sure there was enough room to allow them to slip a bit in case the body flexes. I won't know if I did it right until I get it back on the road. That's the next job; hooking up the wiring and adjusting the band's.

Lookin good Jim!

Neal,'

My TT was my grandfathers from 1946 until his passing in 1965. It was his ranch truck, used for all manner of work. He always called it his "Baby Lincoln".

It is my unsubstantiated belief that "Baby Lincoln" was a term originally applied to the Model A when it came out because folks thought it looked like a miniature and less expensive version of Ford's upper end line, the Lincoln.

Went for a nice drive to my accountant again, hopefully adding to my wallet instead of lightening it this time.
Went down the big hill from my previous post, but went a different route home.
Beautiful day here, not quite as hot as it has been, but the 90s return for the weekend....

Henry

Your rugged TT is a great looking rustic hauler.

But, comment on Baby Lincoln. Ford had purchased Lincoln in the early twenties, so accessory mfgs. of the day used that as a gimmick to sell these novelty radiator caps for Model Ts. They do look best on the T sedans, some resemblance to the big fancy car! Note the date of the adv. 1922, long before the Model A was even a thought of Henry and Edsel.

Have one of these original, but resist install as it might leave the radiator when I park the Ford

I need to insure the 09 and our friends at Grundy need two pictures. So I cranked it up and parked near the trees and took about a dozen pictures.

Looks great! Glad you got your earlier mechanical issues sorted out.

Made the Rubes look a little better

Good Job! Isn't Brass Pretty?
Rich

Wrestled the new Lucas 32x 4 1/2 tire on the Kelsey rim as a spare for the TT. Only the 30 x 3 1/2 on the Kelsey for the front to go. 80% humidity keeps everything wet!

Well after a year of collecting parts from Dave Hanlon , Hank Lee and Langs I managed to get Kelsey front and rear spare tires mounted for the TT. Now to build a double spare carrier for under the 8in1 bed.

Sometimes the sliding socket in headlamps gets rusty or can wiggle and lose ground. So added a ground wire from the socket to the headlamp bucket.

Grind a small groove in a rivet, solder the ground wire, terminal behind the spring to socket screw.


Lamp is bright and wiggling didn’t make it go dark.. good ground.


Added new super reflectors the ones with aluminized deposit. Wow these are mirror!

Playing with stock rack on the TT today. Have to replace a couple boards and mount fasteners.

We actually had a tour today and drove to the Rocky Mountain Brake Co. We saw a small collection of cars there and also the shop where they manufacture the brakes. It was 100 degrees today so quite hot, but something to do other than "shelter in place". If someone posts some pictures and I see them I will post them here. My wife carries the camera and only had one picture which came out.
Norm