MTFCA Forum

Slip fit tap it parallel gentlat clean just between it and the threads file then tap off if still not coming off find bolts and rrun them through one or both holes and with a nut inside the flandge back off evenly
Heat will work as well

Steve, I have to disagree about the puller. Although they solve a lot of problems, they can also bend thin things like that flange.

Many moons ago I had a similar problem. I took it to the gentleman who was helping me at the time and he first tried a puller....no go. His next attempt was my introduction to the problem solving abilities of HEAT. He heated the entire flange with an oxy-acetyene torch until it was dull red, then a few mild whacks with a hammer popped it right off. No damage and I reused the flange. I purchased a torch not long after.

A couple 12" long 2x4's under the flange then put in your press.

Before any penetrating oil is used (and IMO, WD-40 isn't a penetrating oil!), always scrub the interfaces with wire brush to clean off visible paint, dirt gobs, hardened grease, etc. for the penetrating oil to have a place to get going down and between.

2x4 support to that thin flange to keep from distortion is correct.

Threaded rod with a nut pushing each direction in six places would spread the load out evenly. I would put a little pressure on each and let the penetrating oil work for a while. Heat would be an alternative also. Read several more suggestions while you wait for the penetrating oil to work.
Rich

As suggested above use a bolt and two nuts and spread them.

That last post by altair is a very good idea and should work very well. I will try to remember that if I have that problem myself. It wouldn't work if the spokes are still in place. If you can rotate the outer plate enough to offset the holes, you could put bolts with a small enough diameter through the hub and spokes and alternately tap with a heavy hammer. I have a hammer made of old babbit which works very well in cases such as that. You want the weight heavy enough to push the outer plate but not tap hard enough to bend it.You want to tap from side to side and around the hub to keep the flange straight as it moves outward.
Norm

Air hammer sideways on the square holes (in the rotational directions). As soon as you get it to move about 1/3 turn then they usually lift right off. It’s easier if the spokes are still in, but should still work. Penetrating oil helps, but not always needed.

Tap it back down and clean the area it sit on. Wire wheel and file come in handy.

To much paint on the hub. Tap the flange downward and clean and sand the hub. Then use the WD-40 to ease off the flange with a mallet. It usually works.

WD 40 is not a penetrating oil or lubricant, it is a water displacement, formula #40. It is better than nothing though, just not as good as something designed for the purpose. JMHO Dave

Threaded rod will give you the same results as a puller. To help prevent bending of the flange use in all holes. best to use a hydraulic press. Heat will work if you are comfortable with it.