How to Paint a T?

[1194668jc]

I have found that people who own Ts tend to keep it original to its initial looks. But I sometimes see otherwise, like a red 1924 touring or a tricolor body, a green-painted engine, signal lights in the rear, etc. My question is how do you paint a T? What colors? What paint? Thank you!

[Susanne]

All depends on the year of the car... Since the neither the original japanned enamel nor Pyroxylin paints are manufactured any more, best case scenario is to use whatever you;re most comfortable using... Mine actually is black imron, which is nowhere close to what Henry used... shiny, pretty, and (fairly) durable over the past 45 years, but not without its issues...

[Squirrel]

Whoever painted mine, didn't take anything apart...it's a mess. Take your time, don't rush, and don't get someone who's not familiar with very old cars to paint it.

As for the finish material, whoever is painting it (if it's not you) probably has their own preferences, and should be left to them. Unless they want to use materials that you think are just wrong...in which case, find someone else to do it, or do it yourself.

[NealW]

My question is how do you paint a T?

I wrote this post last year summarizing my experience as a first time Model T painter. Perhaps you will find it helpful:

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=6764&p=51027#p51027

[Steve Jelf]

My question is how do you paint a T? What colors? What paint?

For colors I prefer original. That includes wheels. So-called "natural" wheels are a modern fad. For wood wheels I prefer body color, as God and Henry intended. I dislike a glossy undercarriage. I think a satin finish on chassis parts looks better. I used glossy paint on an engine and hated it. Repainting with a satin finish was an easy choice. For chassis parts (engine, pans, frame, springs, fasteners, etc.) I use rattle can satin finish Rustoleum. It looks good and is quite durable.

Bruce McCalley's Model T Encyclopedia (the best fifty bucks you can spend on a Model T) gives a lot of good information and advice on paints and colors, including before and after the black era.

I haven't painted enough to be expert at it, but one thing I'll recommend that I haven't seen mentioned yet is wiping the patient with a tack cloth to remove dust before painting.

[DanTreace]

So-called "natural" wheels are a modern fad. For wood wheels I prefer body color, as God and Henry intended.

The almighty sure thought of natural finish wood wheels in the old days

Ford made it option for 1926 too...

The many aftermarket companies marketed natural finish with varnish, and many folks chose that over the paint which hides the fine grain of hickory spokes.

I like 'em and on T's.


note last line.....black or natural finish....

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Ford, NOS in the crate, natural

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[Norman Kling]

I realize that how you paint depends on which year and which body you have. The one I painted was a 26 touring which is an all steel body. First I did all the dent straightening and welding up rusted out places (which were few). Then I used an epoxy primer on the bare metal including the inside as well as the outside and made sure it would flow into any hidden areas so that rust could not form from the inside. Then I used what necessary body filler I needed to get a completely smooth surface. It is a mistake to think that the final coat will fill in all the imperfections! Must get them filled with bondo or sandable primer. Before you paint try to smooth things out by hammering, grinding or filing so that the filler will be as thin and as little as possible.
I painted each fender, hood panel, door and other removable parts separately with sandable primer and sanded to the smoothest surface as I could get. Then I used acrillic catalitic enamel. Note, I did not use a clear coat. I park inside and when I wash, I use the cleaner which contains wax, so I do not need to wax the finish either. So far it has lasted 18 years and still looks good. I used a color which was from a color chart used on the 27. Although I had a 26, I wanted a little color, but the 26 and 27 bodies look almost identical. I put the body up on horses so I could paint underneath as well as the rest of the body. I did not put finish coat on the inside of the body, but did put black on the fenders and running boards and all the black parts of the car. Both underneath and on top. The chassis was painted gloss black as well as the transmission and crankcase. However since the engine on that year was green, I painted it green. The color is not a match, but it was what I could find in a spray can. You need heat resistant paint for the engine. The horses on which the body was placed were constructed in such a way that I could roll the chassis under. The wire wheels were painted "Straw".
Norm

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[JvanMaanen]

Having painted a few of various years, I would strongly suggest using a self etching primer on any bare metal. Then put on the primer of your choice. The bottom layer of self etching ensures a good bond with the old metal you will be covering, and often some of the stripped metal sets a while as you work on other parts before it is painted. It is no fun to have that fine finish you put a lot of work into peel off in places later on.

[Steve Jelf]

The almighty sure thought of natural finish wood wheels in the old days
Ford made it option for 1926 too...

Yes, I should have mentioned it becoming a Ford option in 1926. But how many period photos have you seen of Fords having that option? I would guess very few. I think most of the cars you see with "natural" wheels today originally wore painted spokes.

[TRDxB2]

Some info on paint colors and
https://www.fordmodelt.net/p-r.htm
From Texas T