MTFCA Forum

Any tips on removing hogs head and refitting , trying to cure a bad oil leak , how do you make more room at drive shaft end ? Thanks

...how do you make more room at drive shaft end?

Not sure what that means.

Ford Service Chapter XII will show the way, step by step.

IMO, everyone will do the first one with some trouble, but after that first ride on the bicycle, you learn.

For me, I take time, and remove all the things in the way, exhaust, pedals, any attachments like brake lite switch, out side brake fittings etc.
Then for the rear, like to remove all 4 bolts at the ball cap, that helps make room too. When installing, usually just trim the upper section of the 4th main gasket, and add a new upper side piece trimmed from a complete gasket.


On install, lots of Permatex, and for me, wrapping the dangling clutch fork with nylon tie strap, keeps it in line with the clutch lever, that I hold and direct that fork with one hand, and the other on the interior of the inspection hole, and fit the hogshead back into place.

What I do is as Dan said remove things out of the way. Remove the cover and clean up all the gasket surfaces both on the cover and on the engine pan.
After that’s done use Permatex on the engine pan and lay the gaskets down on the pan and lightly press and position in place and let them set up to secure them.
I found by doing this it keeps the gasket in place and no juggling or maneuvering is required.

There is a piece of felt that goes between the cover and engine block. Also secure it with a light bead of Permatex to hold it in place.
Coat the Transmission cover surfaces with Permatex and then lower the cover onto the engine. When the cover is bolted down use a little Permatex in the corners where it meets up with pan.
Shouldn’t have any leaks.

I’ll probably get a lot of disagreement about this but...I’ll never pull and reinstall another hogshead while the engine is in the car.

That was the single most unpleasant automotive task I’ve ever done.

I’ll happily pull the engine to do it should the need ever arise again.

To make room at the driveshaft end, I hook a tiedown strap around the front of a radius rod and loop the other end around the rear cross member. When tension is applied, this has the effect of hauling the driveshaft ball end back as the load is applied to the spring and shackles. That little bit gained is a.big help when trying to lower the cover back down. It enebles the rear of the cover to be a little to the rear, so the front can be more easily lowered at the angle required.
I tie the bronze clutch throw with dental floss to keep it in place. That can stay there right through the process. It doesn't matter if you can't get it all out later. Rather than cut the ball gasket in two, I slit a new one on an angle at the top, and feed it into place before relaxing the tiedown. That way the two lower bolts will hold the whole in place, and you only have the one joint at the top to worry about.
In one of the 'Tinkerin' Tips books, it suggests holding the gaskets in place with some pan bolts, inserted from below, and held in place with cotter pins. I find this most useful. The gaskets cannot be displaced accidentally, and they are easily removed prior to tightening the pan rail bolts.
It is a bugger of a job in the car, but is much more manageable with a second pair of hands working on the other side of the car.

Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.

RustyFords wrote: ↑

Sat Jul 11, 2020 7:02 pm

I’ll probably get a lot of disagreement about this but...I’ll never pull and reinstall another hogshead while the engine is in the car.

That was the single most unpleasant automotive task I’ve ever done.

I’ll happily pull the engine to do it should the need ever arise again.

Totally agree. Having done both, just pulling the engine is so much easier. Not just that it's easier to access the hogshead with the engine out, but pulling the whole engine is an easier process with less aggravation, IMHO.

To mount the hogs head , I got some help of my hoist.
Toon

I've removed two hogsheads so far. One was in a 1913 the other was in a 1915. I had to remove the exhaust manifold both times to get them out. Also, I didn't use just permatex. I used permatex ultra black.

The last trans cover I removed was in my 24 Coupe. I pulled it off and replaced it while the engine was in the car. That was a few years ago BUT now since I’m older and can’t twist and turn like I use to I’m not so sure about doing it again! Took about a day at the time and a few breaks between the effort.

Lots of good advice here. To give yourself more room at the driveshaft end, first put chocks up tight behind the front wheels. Then jack up the rear axle just enough to get a couple pieces of 2 x 4 under the rear wheels. Place them so that the back edge of each 2 x 4 is just a hair forward of the wheels' vertical centerline. When you let the jack down, the rear wheels will roll backward off the wood while the chocked front wheels stay put, pulling the driveshaft back about a half inch. That half inch will give you plenty of room to maneuver the cover.

Dang me RV. now I know why spell checker rejected my spelling of maneouvre. You guys have dropped the o and reversed the re on the end.

Allan from down under

Agreed - as we get a bit older, it's easier on the "old bod" to just remove the engine and you get a much better job at sealing up the trans. cover !

Allan:

Steve Jelf wrote: ↑

Mon Jul 13, 2020 10:45 am

I'm with Don and Scott. I'd rather pull the engine and do the job out of the car. Anthonie's suggestion of a hoist is especially good with a cast iron hogshead.

RajoRacer wrote: ↑

Mon Jul 13, 2020 11:05 am

Agreed - as we get a bit older, it's easier on the "old bod" to just remove the engine and you get a much better job at sealing up the trans. cover !

Good points.

Getting a proper seal is a real bugger on an "in the car" installation. My current engine was done outside the car and it doesn't leak oil at all out of any hogshead gasket surface.

Don't get me wrong...it leaks from other places...just not the the hogshead mating/gasket surfaces.