Radiator Installation Tips And Tricks?

[paddy1998]

As I approach the completion of the reinstallation of the engine in my 23(ish) Touring one of the last obstacles is the radiator.

Removing the hoses was a HUGE pain, so much so that I just cut them off.

Now that I'm about to install my freshly cleaned and sealed radiator I'd like to ask:

1. Is there a "right" way to do this? any tips to minimize the aggravation will be appreciated. Also,

2. I have a new hose set from a vendor, but which hose goes where? I threw out the old pieces in a huff . . .

Thanks.

[Original Smith]

Read the Ford Service book, and a little common sense should help too! Don't forget to see if the two leather pads are on top of the frame. You may have to readjust the radiator support rod too.

[RustyFords]

I couldn't get mine to completely seal without a bit of silicone.

The silicone, in its wet/non-dried state also acted as a bit of a lubricant to help the hoses slide into place a bit easier.

As for the silicone making removal more difficult, I'll happily cut off the old hoses and buy another set. No big deal. My radiator was new and the water outlet/inlet were in excellent condition and I could make it quit leaking tiny amounts. Just a thin coat of silicone totally fixed that issue.

[Squirrel]

How rusty are the fittings that the hoses fit onto? The two on the engine and the lower one on the radiator are made of cast iron, and tend to rust away. If they are heavily pitted, it would be nice to repair or replace them. One way to repair them is to remove all the rust (by sandblasting, wire wheel, etc), fill in the holes with JB weld, and file/sand smooth. It's a lot of work, but will keep the new hoses from leaking.

I would not use any sealer where the hose fits on, it will only make future work that much more difficult. If the surface is reasonably smooth, the hose will not leak. If you paint the surface first, be sure to let the paint dry completely before assembling, same reason.

Doesn't the Ford service manual say something about removing the radiator, hoses, and engine fittings as an assembly? Reassembling it this way might be helpful, if you keep the clamps loose so things can be adjusted. It's easier than having to slip the hoses on when everything is already in place.

[RajoRacer]

I've found the easiest way, for me anyway, is to install the top hose (largest & longest) onto the cylinder head outlet with a finger swipe of clean oil or chassis grease on both parts, drop 2 modern S.S. hose clamps onto the top hose then position radiator aligning the previously installed top hose into the radiator inlet, install clamps leaving loose until final hood rod adjustment. On the lower short 2 hoses & steel pipe, lube both pipe ends, hoses, lower radiator outlet & cylinder block inlet as above, slide both hoses onto steel pipe so both hoses are nearly completely on the pipe - install 4 hose clamps onto the middle of the steel pipe, hold pipe in position, slide lower hose onto radiator outlet and tighten that clamp, position upper hose onto the cylinder inlet, tighten that clamp then position the pipe evenly between the 2 hoses & loosely tighten all clamps, re-install hood for best fit then tighten all clamps down - DONE !

[John kuehn]

On my tractors and the T ‘s that I have I make sure the hose fittings are clean and when I install them I coat the inside of the hose with a light coat of grease so the hose will easily slide on the hose outlets. Been doing it that way
since I was a kid here on the farm and repairing tractors. Works every time. As for as T’s are concerned
It may be a little easier when the radiator is off the car to install the hoses and fittings set up before you mount the radiator but I really never thought about it either way.
Ive done it both ways.

[Allan]

I use Permatex no 2 gasket sealer to help seal the hoses. It acts as a lubricant during installation and does not harden and cause problems for removal.

Larry, what do the leather pads do when fitting a 23 radiator? I thought the radiator mountings were supported on the two springs and the thimbles. Have I got it wrong?

Allan from down under.

[John kuehn]

Here is a drawing I got several years ago from the radiator stud kit for my 24 Coupe. Bought it from from one of the vendors. I was thinking the pads were used up to 1919 then discontinued. May be wrong and not sure. Anyway the drawing gives you an idea of the sequence for the pieces.

[Norman Kling]

looking at the diagram posted by John, the way I do it is to put all the springs and thimbles on with the nuts but without the radiator. Then I tighten it down until the spring under the frame rail compresses. I then put something thick enough to hold the spring in the compressed position. You can use a small block of wood or a metal bar, anything which will fit there and also be easy to remove later.
Then I remove the upper nut and thimble and place the radiator over the lower thimble. At this time you can install the upper hose. Then place the upper thimble and nut and tighten up. Now you can remove the block under the frame rail. Place the support rod and put the hood in place. At this time you can do the final adjustments on the springs and the length of the rod so the hood fits correctly Then place the hose clamps and install the pipe and two short hoses at the bottom. Be sure that cotter pins are in the nuts both on top and under the stud.
Norm

[TonyB]

I assemble the hoses and water pipe and the inlet and outlet on the radiator before I put the radiator on the car. Once it is roughly assembled with all six hose clamps, I ensure the two studs are vertical. For some reason all mine want to point outwards. Then I lower the radiator on the studs, letting it know that I’m boss and it will go MY way. Occasionally I have to take it all off to trim the outlet hose as sometimes they are too long. Connect the support rod and check the radiator is vertical. Then tighten the four bolts, two nuts and then the hose clamps.
Remember that the inlet hose runs OVER the timing rod and I use new paper gaskets without any sealant. Works for me.

[paddy1998]

Hey, thanks for all the great advice.

Last night I managed to get the radiator installed with a minimum of fiddling.

I coated all surfaces and the inside of hoses with DOT 5 silicone brake fluid and everything came together with a minimum of fuss.

Not that it matters, but I only use two hoses because the water pump on my engine has a solid inlet pipe that extends to within an inch of the lower radiator connection.

The thing that gave me the biggest problem was that I accidentally loosened a hose clamp so far that it became disconnected; those several beers might have had something to do with it. Naturally it was on the lower hose so it took awhile to get it reconnected and tightened.

Anyway, no leaks that I could see in the dark last night, so I'm taking that as a good sign.

I'll check again this morning to be on the safe side

[D Stroud]

I use a dab of silicone sealant on the hose connections. It fills any imperfections and will let the hoses pop right off as they don't stick to it. Works for me. Dave