Ultrasonic cleaning solution
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Topic author - Posts: 92
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Ultrasonic cleaning solution
Looking for input on what is being used for the cleaning solution for carburetors in an ultrasonic cleaner? Brass, Iron or Aluminum carbs.
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Re: Ultrasonic cleaning solution
Have a bottle from a friend's estate. Harbor Freight, US made, ultrasonic general purpose cleaning powder.
Might color-stain aluminum and magnesium parts. No hint of what's inside tho.
Some folks use vinegar I believe.
Might color-stain aluminum and magnesium parts. No hint of what's inside tho.
Some folks use vinegar I believe.
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Re: Ultrasonic cleaning solution
I used vinegar..
After cleaning, blow it out and wipe it down good to clean off any loose gunk, then reclean again to get the best result.
I then clear coated it to try and extend the life.
After cleaning, blow it out and wipe it down good to clean off any loose gunk, then reclean again to get the best result.
I then clear coated it to try and extend the life.
If my short term memory gets any shorter, I won’t even have thought about what I’m going to forget.
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Re: Ultrasonic cleaning solution
Thanks for taking the time to reply.
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Re: Ultrasonic cleaning solution
I bought a HF ultrasonic cleaner, used it on some old metallic toy train parts with the HF powder, was not impressed should give it another try on something else. Has anyone used vinegar with an ultrasonic cleaner?
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Re: Ultrasonic cleaning solution
The first thing I do with any carb is plunk it in a small pail of EvapoRust. That includes brass and aluminum carbs. That takes care of all the rust. Then I disassemble from there. Getting rid of the rust first makes disassembly a LOT easier. When you put the penetrating oil on it, it can actually get into the fasteners, rather than being obstructed by the rust layer. Evaporust has no effect on aluminum or brass, so you don't have to worry about it attacking them while soaking.
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Re: Ultrasonic cleaning solution
Psssst - look up 2 posts...George Hand wrote: ↑Wed Jul 22, 2020 9:13 amI bought a HF ultrasonic cleaner, used it on some old metallic toy train parts with the HF powder, was not impressed should give it another try on something else. Has anyone used vinegar with an ultrasonic cleaner?
I gotta try this.
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Re: Ultrasonic cleaning solution
One of my mentors has been using Simple Green for years in the HF ultrasonic cleaner. Straight out of the bottle. Inexpensive when on sale. I've used it for the past 4 years. Very pleased.
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Re: Ultrasonic cleaning solution
Found a good article on ultrasonic cleaning - discusses factors that effect cleaning of materials : solution pH, temperature and tank time https://www.americanmachinist.com/shop- ... c-cleaning Here is a highlight - "You have to match the chemistry of the cleaning solution to the application. For example, when removing contaminants such as dirt, soil, oil, light grease, or carbon, a high pH, alkaline soap typically is required. Acids have a low pH value. High pH, alkaline solutions can clean almost anything, but if pH goes too high, especially with softer metals such as aluminum, parts can be damaged. Hard metals such as steel, stainless steel and titanium can handle high pH values, but steel is more prone to rusting with water-based chemistries, so steel or other ferrous metals require either a built-in rust inhibitor in the cleaning soap or a secondary rinse in a rust inhibitor." Neutral pH is 7.0 So the pH of vinegar, acid, is very low, 2.5. and wouldn't be effective. Next I looked for the pH values of some popular de-greasers and found a more generic list https://www.thespruce.com/ph-levels-for ... es-1900473 . Now since most of these would be mixed with water or whatever - it would be wise to get some pH test strips, Litmus paper, so you know what works or not. There were several other reviews using other cleaning products like Simple Green, Dawn, Krud Kutter, OxiKlean
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Re: Ultrasonic cleaning solution
Don't know if still used, but Stan Howe, the Brass Carb Hero, posted this info using Sonic Sheen for ultrasonic brass cleaning
By Stan Howe Helena, Montana on Wednesday, April 16, 2014 - 10:59 am:
This is what I have been using lately. It's the best I've found and comes in a powder that you just mix with warm water. I've done about twenty runs of small parts and a couple carb bodies on about 4 heaping plastic teaspoons in my 2 liter ultrasonic and it is still working fine but getting really dirty. It is the first I've used this. Up until now I have been using Lyman's brass case cleaner. IMHO this is far better.
I do beadblast most things before I put them in the sonic but this stuff sure cleans out passages and puts and extra shine on. I also spend some time polishing after the parts dry. On some parts I spend quite a bit of time polishing. I don't know if this makes it easier to polish but it seems like it makes it shinier.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SONIC-SHEEN-Bra ... sh-Additiv e-Ultrasonic-Concentrate-/360761404665?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item53ff0e2cf9
I don't throw the solutions out. I dump them in a clear plastic jar and leave it set for a week or so, most of the nasty stuff will settle out. It doesn't seem to really lose its strength.
It's amazing what comes out of the carb bodies after you think they are clean from bead blasting and/or carb cleaner. I don't use carb cleaner, most of it anymore is so weak all it does is make a mess out of the passages. But I get one in once in awhile that has been soaked in it.
I didn't do the ultrasonic cleaning for a long time, then got started with it and now do all the carbs in it after I bead blast, drill out or remove the passage plugs, etc. I'm now convinced it is the only way to really get the insides clean. It's a mess and takes more time but I think it's worth it. I am amazed at how clean they are internally after a zip through this stuff. Gotta have a good ultrasonic tho, one with heat and some power or you are just soaking it.
I've had a couple that spit out a big gob of gunk from a passage that I would have had to drill to clean but I still run a bit into a lot of passages. I run them through once for 20 minutes, blow the passages, run them through again for 5 or 10, blow the passages, run them through a third time if I think they need it and check the passages.
By Stan Howe Helena, Montana on Wednesday, April 16, 2014 - 10:59 am:
This is what I have been using lately. It's the best I've found and comes in a powder that you just mix with warm water. I've done about twenty runs of small parts and a couple carb bodies on about 4 heaping plastic teaspoons in my 2 liter ultrasonic and it is still working fine but getting really dirty. It is the first I've used this. Up until now I have been using Lyman's brass case cleaner. IMHO this is far better.
I do beadblast most things before I put them in the sonic but this stuff sure cleans out passages and puts and extra shine on. I also spend some time polishing after the parts dry. On some parts I spend quite a bit of time polishing. I don't know if this makes it easier to polish but it seems like it makes it shinier.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SONIC-SHEEN-Bra ... sh-Additiv e-Ultrasonic-Concentrate-/360761404665?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item53ff0e2cf9
I don't throw the solutions out. I dump them in a clear plastic jar and leave it set for a week or so, most of the nasty stuff will settle out. It doesn't seem to really lose its strength.
It's amazing what comes out of the carb bodies after you think they are clean from bead blasting and/or carb cleaner. I don't use carb cleaner, most of it anymore is so weak all it does is make a mess out of the passages. But I get one in once in awhile that has been soaked in it.
I didn't do the ultrasonic cleaning for a long time, then got started with it and now do all the carbs in it after I bead blast, drill out or remove the passage plugs, etc. I'm now convinced it is the only way to really get the insides clean. It's a mess and takes more time but I think it's worth it. I am amazed at how clean they are internally after a zip through this stuff. Gotta have a good ultrasonic tho, one with heat and some power or you are just soaking it.
I've had a couple that spit out a big gob of gunk from a passage that I would have had to drill to clean but I still run a bit into a lot of passages. I run them through once for 20 minutes, blow the passages, run them through again for 5 or 10, blow the passages, run them through a third time if I think they need it and check the passages.
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Re: Ultrasonic cleaning solution
Point to remember, Stan is using an industrial type ultrasonic with heat. I tried a HF, the middle of the road one they sell, took it back. Might be good for cleaning jewelry but not much else in my OP. I glass bead my carbs and clean passages as needed. We have a small HF blasting cabinet (next size up from the plastic box one) that works great for doing small stuff like carbs.
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Re: Ultrasonic cleaning solution
Another consideration with the ultrasonic cleaners that hasn’t been discussed yet is “shadows”. You should be familiar with the design of your tank and the location of the sonic generators. The placement of the parts within the tank can be critical to getting repeatable cleaning results. Also many of the smaller units come with a perforated stainless steel basket to support the parts. This puts the part in a massive shadow and can dramatically increase the cleaning times. A simple wire hanger is best as it minimizes shadows, but is difficult to repeat position for consistent results. Sometimes it is necessary to reposition the parts multiple times during a cleaning cycle to achieve best results
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Re: Ultrasonic cleaning solution
Doing instrument repair back in the day, 1/3 each of distilled water, Parson’s ammonia, Mr. Clean. 24 hr max as it will eat brass If left for weeks. Keep it covered, and use in a well vented area.
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Topic author - Posts: 92
- Joined: Mon Jan 28, 2019 4:54 pm
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Re: Ultrasonic cleaning solution
There has been alot of great information given. Thanks for taking the time to post!