1927 Coupe History and Then Questions

[BLB27]

I bought a 1927 Model T coupe (sn14648131) from a old farmer in North Dakota in 1954 when I was a junior in high school. It was in good condition, no corrosion. The radiator was like new. My dad and a uncle helped me get it running and taught me how to "drive". In 1954, the Sears and Roebuck catalog still had T parts. I purchased pistons, transmission bands and probably valves. I had an old time mechanic install the pistons. I installed the bands and painted the engine/ undercarriage and had the body painted. I enjoyed driving and tinkering with it for the next five years. Since 1959, the coupe has been "stored" at various locations as I pursued my career. The T hasn't been run in those 61 years. I now live in Iowa, and I have two teenage grandsons who now are interested in "restoring" it. I need help from you guys and gals on the form in deciding what "restoring"?? Our goal is to have a very nice antique car. It will be completely repainted and the inside reupholstered. We will probably paint the undercarriage/engine, but will have someone paint the body and do the upholstery. We would like to do some of the prep work for the body repainting. We want to do much of the mechanical work, replace transmission bands, replace rear axle thrust washers, electric rewiring, new coils, etc.

QUESTIONS:
1) Should we have the engine rebuilt? What would a rebuild entail? What would it cost? Who do you recommend?
2) What will we have to do to the gas tank?
3)The top is the original and appears to be in good shape, except for one small mouse hole and small cracks, Is there a coating that could be applied to freshen it up?
4)We want to take the body off of the undercarriage in order to paint the frame. Anything to be particularly careful of?
5)Is there anything to do to the magneto?
6)What cleaning of the transmission is needed?
7)Any recommendations??

I recognize this is a lot to ask of form and certainly appreciate any help given!

















































































Q

[Chris Barker]

I wouldn't rush into tearing it apart. Model Ts with much worse histories have been successfully resurrected.
I would want to find out - carefully- what you've got.
If it was running OK in 1959 it may well do so today as long as wildlife hasn't got into the mechanicals.

It would be good to find a friend-who-knows about Ts to help you. (Not just any old car nut!)

The gas tank must be drained and flushed through. With the 26 you can remove the sediement bulb, or even the whole tap assembly.
Worst case is you have to take the tank out from inside the car. If it's bone dry, vacuum it out from above FIRST.
Remove the carb bowl and check the needle valve.
You need to at least ensure that all 4 coils produce sparks. The simplest way is to put a battery on the car, remove the spark plugs, reconnect them, lying in contact with the head, then slowly turn the crank with the battery on and listen for buzzes and watch for sparks. But first have a look at the timer and if it's a roller, clean and oil it.
If one coil doesn't spark, first try exchanging it with another - to check the box and timer wiring for that cylinder. If that doesn't work DON'T touch the adjuster nuts. Clean the points with wet-and-dry, and slacken and retighten the 4 nuts holding on the points as they provide the contact. If that doesn't work search the forum or come back and ask here.
Inspect inside the transmission visually.
Drain and refill the rad - and look for leaks. New hoses now or very soon.
Drain out the oil and check for water of anything solid in it.
Refill with new SAE30 and turn the engine over to circulate the oil.
Then, if you have some compression with the plugs in, you might try to start it. If no compression, remove the side cover and check that all valves open and close.

If it runs on battery, you can try switching to mag. You can test the mag with an AC voltmeter (5v at idle, 30v at high rpm is good) or just connect the output to a 21W 12v brake or turn bulb. Bright or blow is good!

If the top is original, I wouldn't coat it. I would clean it and sew or glue on a small patch

Closely inspect all the wiring. It won't take long!
Check the wheels for any loose or rotten or wormy spokes
Jack each rear wheel and pull/push it in and out. Anything more than minimal float - plan for a rebuild soon.
Grease the drive-shaft and axle bearings.
Check all the steering joints and grease/oil them. 2" rim play in the steering wheel is OK.
Check tyres. Expect to open your wallet! Definitely do so before driving more than exploratory miles.
Then enjoy it for a while.

I could go on but that's enough for now.

[John Codman]

Chris's post is just about perfect. I totally agree with what he said. I would definitely drain the tank, saving the fuel in a clear clean container. If it's just a little dirty, clean the sediment bowl and drain the carburetor float bowl You didn't say whether it still has the vaporizer carb or if it has been switched to an NH. If the fuel isn't too bad, you can put a small amount of fresh gas in the tank just before you attempt to start it. If the fuel is horrible (I'm referring to dirt and crud. 61 year-old fuel will be horrible). I would try to flush out the tank in the car. Removing the tank from an "improved car" is possible, but I guarantee that it won't be your favorite job on a model T.
When you get it running, see if it overheats. If that's an original radiator I would start budgeting for a new flat-tube unit. This has been discussed many times here, but the fins lose their ability to transfer heat from the tubes over the years; as a practical matter, if that has happened the radiator is not repairable but does make an interesting garage wall ornament.

[Scott C.]

I recently started my 27 roadster pick up that had not been running in over 60 years. Once I had it to ready to start, it took about 7 minutes to get it to run. I did turn the engine over by the hand crank several times a day for a few weeks before attempting to start it. I wanted the first start to be by the hand crank, but it was a hot humid day! I ended up going to the electric starter. The only way to choke it at the time was from the front. Here is a video of the first start up with rebuilt carburetor and coils.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Anq1gK9gtw

Sorry, here is the right video.

[John kuehn]

Agree with the above.
What ever you do don’t take the car all apart at the beginning of trying to get it running. Do what some call a refresh of the car. Not a restoration.
Clean up the gas tank, go through the electrical wiring, get the coils rebuilt, change the oil, get a new battery of course and get it started. You will soon find out after it gets running for a while the condition of the radiator and the transmission bands which will need to be replaced.
Run and drive it for a while to get acquainted and how it drives.
From time to time T’s come up for sale in a partial or complete pile from someone who just wants to move on from loseing interest in the car.
I don’t think you would let that happen but get your car running and driving first then see how much farther you want to go with it.
You will be glad in the long run you did and have family fun along the way.

[BLB27]

Thanks!! If coils don't work should I have them rebuilt or buy new ones?

[Chris Barker]

Have them rebuilt.
As long as you can measure between about 2500 and 3500 ohms between the two terminals on the side, they will almost certainly live again.

[BLB27]

I want to share something interesting, regarding the 1927 coupe that has been stored for 60 years. It has been moved five times during that time. The left front tire has been "completely" flat each time. I pumped it up for each move, and it stayed inflated for a couple months each time. Hard to understand how the inner tube could stay basically intact for that many years and not crack being so pinched! I wonder how long a present day tube would last in such a situation?? It will be interesting to see the condition of the tube when I remove it. I have never had to add air to the other three tires!

[Chris Barker]

No light, no air = no problem!

I'm more amazed by the other 3 staying up.
There is an old concours joke about NOS air