MTFCA Forum

OK folks;

I guess I am not holding my mouth quiet right while attempting to remove the radiator mount bolts for my 1916 Run About.

HELP!

Get you a screwdriver or something that will wedge between the frame and the bottom nut and then try to remove the top nut. I’ve also used a chisel that worked just right before that wedged pretty tight.

When working with any of the cotter pinned nuts on my T, it typically demands a small blood sacrifice...usually from one of my fingers.

After that, it’s happy to oblige.

What these guys said. The brass-era radiator stud nut is considerably shorter than the black-era (1917 and later) ones. The early, short one can spin merrily around while you drive yourself batty (or in my case, battier) trying to get the stud out. The longer one will jam against the frame when turned, so when you follow the advice here and finally get your studs out, you may want to install the later, longer type nut when you go to put them back. While it would not be correct, it may save your sanity next time the studs need to come out.

As always. Thanks guys for the direction...

Don

RustyFords wrote: ↑

Thu Jul 30, 2020 6:27 pm

When working with any of the cotter pinned nuts on my T, it typically demands a small blood sacrifice...usually from one of my fingers.

After that, it’s happy to oblige.

Ain't THAT the truth!! Seems every time I go out to do something, the main benefactor is Band-Aid brands...

R.V.Anderson wrote: ↑

Thu Jul 30, 2020 7:12 pm

. . . The longer one will jam against the frame when turned, so when you follow the advice here and finally get your studs out, you may want to install the later, longer type nut . . .

While that’s true, if you have the original “thick headed” fender brace bolts, the longer stud nut won’t allow the stud to sit vertically, which causes the springs to bind, and a fair amount of gripes mounting the radiator properly. Someone had installed the “new” longer nuts on my ‘13, I had to cut them down to get my radiator to mount without a bind. YMMV

Thanks all for your valuable input. Was able to finally remove the beast... LOL

OK, Rich; now you made a little dim bulb go off in what's left of my mind. I seem to recall, sorta, that I used the later nut on my '14 but shortened it a bit to clear the bolt heads in an attempt to get the best of both worlds. That was almost 20 years ago so I don't recall much, but I bet it happened that way.

First of all, what the author is trying to talk about is a stud, not a bolt. And yes, we've all had that problem.