MTFCA Forum

I rebuilt my 25-26-27 T's rear axle, replacing worn out shackles. Everything is back together except I can't figure out what to do about the lower oiler. I can install it by lifting the frame and dropping the axle, but then there is no way I can get oil into it without jacking up the car again. This makes me wonder if my springs are too flat? Is this the proper resting position for the shackles, with the wheels on the ground?

To be clear, the T has a 25 or so rear axle (small drum), with a 26 engine and 27 frame. Don't even ask about the body parts, but it's fun and it runs and takes me all over town.

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I have 5 T's and none have them in the springs, even if you could get one in, I don't think it would stay there long.

Regular drop of oil in there is about the best you can do.

By the way, the correct way to use split (cotter) pins is with the flat sides even with the castle nut sides so that the head nestles into the gap snugly. One leg is bent up and across the bolt end, pulling the head in firmly. Cut the leg off about about the width of the bolt end, but in any case at least 1/2 way as in the picture below. The second leg is cut off even with the castle nut, but a little proud like the picture is OK too.

A tidy and firmly installed pin wont turn or come out and will hold that castle nut in place, and is less likely to catch the cleaning rag in a snag too.

In the case (as appears to be in both bolts in your picture of the shackle) the castle nut is too 'thin' (not tall enough) for the slots to catch the split pin then either 1) put a flat washer(s) behind it to bring the slots out or 2) and the best solution, look for a 'taller' nut.

DO NOT leave the nut without proper engagement with the slots as it will work loose and with movement has been known to chew through a pin or break castles over time.

Arthur

You could try this method, used it today for missing oilers on the rear leaf, worked out OK

Grab oiler in small vice grips and take to the grinding wheel, shorten and slightly taper the edge, if you shorten to the 'fat' part, just grind that larger diameter down for the leaf hole.
Then sneak the stubby oiler in place, used a small screwdriver blade as lever, to roll it down and in the hole. Then seated with a blow on the punch resting on the screwdriver blade to spread the force.

The space is tight, but you can see enough of a opening of the lid to get the oil can nozzle tip in there
Did the other side with same success.

Nice photos Dan, that is a simple and clear explanation. I might use that on my roadster. Perhaps with a drop of locktite to glue it in as 'belt and braces'.

(Nice split pin install too)

Arther, Your spring looks close to backing plate. It would not have much travel. Shackles should be about 45* like Dan's.

As you mentioned spring may be too flat or maybe just camera angle.


John

Thanks for the advice. The spring isn't as close to the backing plate as this photo makes it look. I think I will try Dan's method, and I will fix my split pins. When I got the car it had maybe 4 of the required 100+ split pins. I spent lots of time putting them in the wrong way, then a pilot and a mechanic politely told me the same thing Adrian did. I haven't had the stomach to replace all of them yet but I'm working on it. Funny thing is the shackle at the other end of the spring is properly pinned. Not sure why I would have fixed one side and not the other.

Why not put a wood block under the spring eye, and be done with it?