Basket Case Speedster Build Thread
Forum rules
If you need help logging in, or have question about how something works, use the Support forum located here Support Forum
Complete set of Forum Rules Forum Rules
If you need help logging in, or have question about how something works, use the Support forum located here Support Forum
Complete set of Forum Rules Forum Rules
-
Topic author - Posts: 96
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 2:24 pm
- First Name: Ryan
- Last Name: Fenrich
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: Speedster Project
- Location: Edmonton
Basket Case Speedster Build Thread
Hello all,
I posted in the "What Did You Do To Your T In July?" thread about bringing home a basket case T. Don Allen suggested I should start a build thread, and as I've enjoyed seeing his thread along with some others, here it is!
Last night, I was examining the frame for its condition. I will share my thoughts and questions, and welcome all inputs. I'm still fairly green to T's.
The first thing I did was gauge how square it was. From the naked eye, all seems fine. I put it on blocks and stands, and ran a level across it like so: It was virtually perfectly level the whole way down. Although using a tape measure on my own was a little challenging (and lost some accuracy), the corner to corner measurements also seemed to be very even.
Is this a good way to check the frame?
Second, the front had several screws in it, rather than rivets. Atleast one screw is missing on the driver's side that is there on the passenger side.
Passenger side: square bolt Driver side: empty I'm also not sure of the extra holes, and what goes in them.
Third, I'm looking at the condition of the brake lever ratchet (is that what it's called?) In my mind, this looks fine to me. Finally, one of these four brackets is broken. What are these for? Running board brackets? My plan for this is to have the speedster as rusty and battered out looking as possible. I want to keep all the weathering and patina that nature has thrown at it over the last century.
Any comments are most welcome. I'm looking forward to this build, and can't wait to drive it!
I posted in the "What Did You Do To Your T In July?" thread about bringing home a basket case T. Don Allen suggested I should start a build thread, and as I've enjoyed seeing his thread along with some others, here it is!
Last night, I was examining the frame for its condition. I will share my thoughts and questions, and welcome all inputs. I'm still fairly green to T's.
The first thing I did was gauge how square it was. From the naked eye, all seems fine. I put it on blocks and stands, and ran a level across it like so: It was virtually perfectly level the whole way down. Although using a tape measure on my own was a little challenging (and lost some accuracy), the corner to corner measurements also seemed to be very even.
Is this a good way to check the frame?
Second, the front had several screws in it, rather than rivets. Atleast one screw is missing on the driver's side that is there on the passenger side.
Passenger side: square bolt Driver side: empty I'm also not sure of the extra holes, and what goes in them.
Third, I'm looking at the condition of the brake lever ratchet (is that what it's called?) In my mind, this looks fine to me. Finally, one of these four brackets is broken. What are these for? Running board brackets? My plan for this is to have the speedster as rusty and battered out looking as possible. I want to keep all the weathering and patina that nature has thrown at it over the last century.
Any comments are most welcome. I'm looking forward to this build, and can't wait to drive it!
-
- Posts: 5412
- Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2019 4:56 pm
- First Name: Frank
- Last Name: Brandi
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: Speedster (1919 w 1926)
- Location: Moline IL
- Board Member Since: 2018
Re: Basket Case Speedster Build Thread
This is a diagram of a 1926 frame has some slight differences from '22 - '25. Like wider rear cross member and extra bracket 'E'. Your broken bracket, is B, used to hold the 'body' to the frame via another bracket. But for a speedster you'll likely use it to hold the floor platform to the frame. Your missing the two cross members used for the running boards (top of picture) and to stiffen the frame and keep the frame rails parallel.
The past is a great place and I don't want to erase it or to regret it, but I don't want to be its prisoner either.
Mick Jagger
Mick Jagger
-
- Posts: 105
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 7:11 pm
- First Name: Steve
- Last Name: Straw
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1915 and lots of parts
- Location: Penn Valley, CA
- MTFCA Number: 12542
Re: Basket Case Speedster Build Thread
Bracket is for body mount- may or may not need it for your speedster. Beware of dips in the concrete- may look nice and level but can have dips in it.
-
- Posts: 913
- Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2019 1:32 am
- First Name: Ignacio
- Last Name: Valdes
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1924 Touring
- Location: Houston, Tx
- MTFCA Number: 50406
- Board Member Since: 2016
Re: Basket Case Speedster Build Thread
Hi, I am doing similar with my hay wagon to speedster project. The frames are riveted, the bolts are not original. I am told that rivets are preferred for frame flexibility. The teethed item for the brake lever is referred to as a quadrant. Others have said stretch a string to check if the frame is straight on the long axis. Good luck with the project, please keep us posted.
-
- Posts: 5205
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 7:21 pm
- First Name: Allan
- Last Name: Bennett
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1912 van, 1917 shooting brake, 1929 roadster buckboard, 1924 tourer, 1925 barn find buckboard, 1925 D &F wide body roadster, 1927LHD Tudor sedan.
- Location: Gawler, Australia
Re: Basket Case Speedster Build Thread
Ryan, when you build your next speedster, there is an easier way to check whether it is out of square than using a tape measure. You just need a length of light timber and a nail. Drive the nail in the side at one end. That end of the is stick put in one corner of the frame, and a pencil mark made at the other end on the opposite corner. Then just switch corners and check against your pencil mark.If the diagonals are the same, the frame is square. This is an old joiners trick used to check any frame before gluing and clamping.
Hope this helps,
Allan from down under.
Hope this helps,
Allan from down under.
-
Topic author - Posts: 96
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 2:24 pm
- First Name: Ryan
- Last Name: Fenrich
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: Speedster Project
- Location: Edmonton
Re: Basket Case Speedster Build Thread
Thank you everyone for the replies and input.
It looks like the running board irons are necessary for frame support. I'll see about locating some of those. The frame is away now (don't have the garage space), but I'll see to the other tests mentioned when I get the space again.
In the meantime, I have my coil box and 8 coils on hand that I want to go through and get a better understanding of. I've studied the circuitry over and over, and I'm finally starting to understand the function of the internals. Part of me wants to open up one of my coils just to see and feel all the internals to fully grasp what's going on.
I'd like to keep the coil box as weary and battered looking as possible, which involved keeping the original wood. Is there any risk of losing the functionality in the coils with old wood and the old box? I just see there are modern plastic reproductions. I'm guessing the risk is the wood getting wood, and then making contact with the brass terminals? I don't plan to get stuck in the rain, but that's happened to me in my Model A several times now, and I'd hate to do damage to a fairly exposed coil box if that were to be the case. Early Ford's that had no top could have been susceptible to the same conditions. Does anyone have experience with a rained on coil box, and the damage that it can do?
I took one of these guys off the back as well for curiosity.
Any need for replacing of the coil box tubes? Or do they provide a more important role that I'm unaware of?
In my head, a proper rebuild (in addition to the coils themselves) would be replacing the bottom contact strip, the back 8 contacts, and the coil box bolts and nuts, just to ensure proper conductivity?
Thanks in advance!
It looks like the running board irons are necessary for frame support. I'll see about locating some of those. The frame is away now (don't have the garage space), but I'll see to the other tests mentioned when I get the space again.
In the meantime, I have my coil box and 8 coils on hand that I want to go through and get a better understanding of. I've studied the circuitry over and over, and I'm finally starting to understand the function of the internals. Part of me wants to open up one of my coils just to see and feel all the internals to fully grasp what's going on.
I'd like to keep the coil box as weary and battered looking as possible, which involved keeping the original wood. Is there any risk of losing the functionality in the coils with old wood and the old box? I just see there are modern plastic reproductions. I'm guessing the risk is the wood getting wood, and then making contact with the brass terminals? I don't plan to get stuck in the rain, but that's happened to me in my Model A several times now, and I'd hate to do damage to a fairly exposed coil box if that were to be the case. Early Ford's that had no top could have been susceptible to the same conditions. Does anyone have experience with a rained on coil box, and the damage that it can do?
I took one of these guys off the back as well for curiosity.
Any need for replacing of the coil box tubes? Or do they provide a more important role that I'm unaware of?
In my head, a proper rebuild (in addition to the coils themselves) would be replacing the bottom contact strip, the back 8 contacts, and the coil box bolts and nuts, just to ensure proper conductivity?
Thanks in advance!
-
- Posts: 2461
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 1:30 pm
- First Name: Dave
- Last Name: Hjortnaes
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 24 Speedster, 20 touring
- Location: Men Falls, WI
- MTFCA Number: 28762
- MTFCI Number: 22402
Re: Basket Case Speedster Build Thread
Ryan
You want a T that runs. I would recommend replacing the wood in that cool box with the plastic kit. Using that old wood will just give you problems down the road. However, keep all the other parts. They are just fine and the flexible strips inside the box are most likely the correct metal to make your coils work correctly. Just clean them up a little.
You want a T that runs. I would recommend replacing the wood in that cool box with the plastic kit. Using that old wood will just give you problems down the road. However, keep all the other parts. They are just fine and the flexible strips inside the box are most likely the correct metal to make your coils work correctly. Just clean them up a little.
-
- Posts: 521
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 12:42 pm
- First Name: David
- Last Name: Dewey
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1916 touring, 1925 runaboaut, 1926 Tudor
- Location: Oroville, CA
- MTFCI Number: 19936
- Board Member Since: 1999
Re: Basket Case Speedster Build Thread
What wasn't mentioned is that the wood, even without getting wet, can develop carbon traces that short out the coils. Once assembled on a car, you can't hardly see the coil box wood, so use the modern kits. The contact strips are phosphor bronze, while some of the replacements aren't, so this is a situation where the original parts are often best.
Yes, replace those cross-member bolts with properly set rivets!
Yes, replace those cross-member bolts with properly set rivets!
T'ake care,
David Dewey
David Dewey
-
- Posts: 1554
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 11:16 am
- First Name: Don
- Last Name: Allen
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1924 Touring
- Location: Houston, TX
- MTFCA Number: 50001
Re: Basket Case Speedster Build Thread
Nothing cooler than a build thread. I’m glad you’re posting it Ryan...looking forward to following along.
1924 Touring
-
Topic author - Posts: 96
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 2:24 pm
- First Name: Ryan
- Last Name: Fenrich
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: Speedster Project
- Location: Edmonton
Re: Basket Case Speedster Build Thread
Thanks for the explanation David. Makes sense to me now.
Thanks Don, I thoroughly enjoyed (and still do!) following yours. You make fixing a T look so easy!
I've spent the last week going through the circuitry and science of the coils themselves. Boy, the amount of classic physics that I had to draw back on was a lot, but I finally had that eureka moment. Very happy that things clicked for me. I'd like to pull one of my coils apart for the winter and see the magic with my eyes. I still love the charm of the opening and closing of the primary circuit with the sparks on the top hardware. So cool.
A Model T guy I met earlier in the year had the mantra of "not understanding the science is when trouble begins to happen", and I've tried to apply that to my old car journey ever since.
I'd love to have a rebuilt and functioning coil box, as that is one of the things I can really do while I don't have access to a car assembly space. I can't imagine there's much to go wrong with a box sitting idle, is there? Not like I'd have to rebuild it again. I'm (hopefully correctly!) going on the assumption that it would be built right the first time, or at least in time to install on the car.
Thanks Don, I thoroughly enjoyed (and still do!) following yours. You make fixing a T look so easy!
I've spent the last week going through the circuitry and science of the coils themselves. Boy, the amount of classic physics that I had to draw back on was a lot, but I finally had that eureka moment. Very happy that things clicked for me. I'd like to pull one of my coils apart for the winter and see the magic with my eyes. I still love the charm of the opening and closing of the primary circuit with the sparks on the top hardware. So cool.
A Model T guy I met earlier in the year had the mantra of "not understanding the science is when trouble begins to happen", and I've tried to apply that to my old car journey ever since.
I'd love to have a rebuilt and functioning coil box, as that is one of the things I can really do while I don't have access to a car assembly space. I can't imagine there's much to go wrong with a box sitting idle, is there? Not like I'd have to rebuild it again. I'm (hopefully correctly!) going on the assumption that it would be built right the first time, or at least in time to install on the car.
-
- Posts: 5412
- Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2019 4:56 pm
- First Name: Frank
- Last Name: Brandi
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: Speedster (1919 w 1926)
- Location: Moline IL
- Board Member Since: 2018
Re: Basket Case Speedster Build Thread
Couple of ideas for the running board supports. I cut the outer part that supported the running board off (wish I kept the first few inches to support some body. I took the flat piece and flipped it over to strengthen the top of frame - see photo. I'm planning to replace the nuts&bolts with rivets. As far as the coil box - refurbish using everything you have. As far as the wood goes - after removing all the contacts and dusting off the dirt (just the big chunks at least), I would brush on a couple of coats of Minwax Wood Hardener or equivalent. The Hardener is a plastic like liquid that would soak into the wood making it moisture proof (water proof?) and firm up the wood. If you have troubles with the wood you can always replace it later. The contacts you have are the "preferred" metal so just clean them off carefully and as a last step check for conductivity in case you left some wax residue on them .
The past is a great place and I don't want to erase it or to regret it, but I don't want to be its prisoner either.
Mick Jagger
Mick Jagger
-
- Posts: 5205
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 7:21 pm
- First Name: Allan
- Last Name: Bennett
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1912 van, 1917 shooting brake, 1929 roadster buckboard, 1924 tourer, 1925 barn find buckboard, 1925 D &F wide body roadster, 1927LHD Tudor sedan.
- Location: Gawler, Australia
Re: Basket Case Speedster Build Thread
Ryan, keeping the 'battered and worn' look is OK, but there is nothing enjoyable about chasing problems getting a T running sweetly. That coilbox wood will give problems some time down the track. When the modern repair kit using replacement parts for the wood is fitted, it is not seen when that style of coilbox is bolted to the firewall.
Hope this helps,
Allan from down under.
Hope this helps,
Allan from down under.
-
- Posts: 5412
- Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2019 4:56 pm
- First Name: Frank
- Last Name: Brandi
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: Speedster (1919 w 1926)
- Location: Moline IL
- Board Member Since: 2018
Re: Basket Case Speedster Build Thread
Allen has a point. The original wood was a form of plywood (pieces of wood held together with dovetail tongue& grove joint(s) with a veneer glued to the front and back). The backs and bottoms may be warped and the veneer separates - if you decide to keep it coat with Minwax wood harder to water proof it. Your tubes, bolts and contacts look good. You need to get the fiber washers and new nuts (not worth the trouble cleaning the old nuts unless they are brass). If you replace the wood the waterproof kit is the way to go. Your coils are likely in need of $ome attention.
The past is a great place and I don't want to erase it or to regret it, but I don't want to be its prisoner either.
Mick Jagger
Mick Jagger
-
Topic author - Posts: 96
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 2:24 pm
- First Name: Ryan
- Last Name: Fenrich
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: Speedster Project
- Location: Edmonton
Re: Basket Case Speedster Build Thread
Thanks everyone for the input. I actually was unaware that there was a modern wood replacement. I've since bought the modern plastic, and finally went about disassembling it tonight. Boy, that would is actually quite brittle and rotten. I would've had to replace it anyways, so I'm glad I splurged and bought my plastic repair kit. With buying that, I almost doubled my entire investment in my T!
Regarding the conductivity of the bolts, contacts and contact strip. Is there any harm in letting it sit in a rust remover solution? Everything just has minor rust around some of the threads. There is really no serious damage anywhere. I can't imagine soaking in a solution would cause any detriment. I'm just wondering if people swear by the hand polishing/emery cloth method and why.
I also can convert my desk from school work to small workbench very quickly! I love having this in the next room, rather than going to the garage as the days start to cool off drastically over here
Regarding the conductivity of the bolts, contacts and contact strip. Is there any harm in letting it sit in a rust remover solution? Everything just has minor rust around some of the threads. There is really no serious damage anywhere. I can't imagine soaking in a solution would cause any detriment. I'm just wondering if people swear by the hand polishing/emery cloth method and why.
I also can convert my desk from school work to small workbench very quickly! I love having this in the next room, rather than going to the garage as the days start to cool off drastically over here
-
- Posts: 5412
- Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2019 4:56 pm
- First Name: Frank
- Last Name: Brandi
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: Speedster (1919 w 1926)
- Location: Moline IL
- Board Member Since: 2018
Re: Basket Case Speedster Build Thread
Not sure what your bolts are made of. May be brass or copper coated and had steel nuts. In any case if i ts minor rust I just use a wire brush on a drill or dremmil tool. If yousoak them < 1/2 hour is all that's needed and then you still may need to brush off the residueryanf1023 wrote: ↑Wed Sep 02, 2020 11:27 pm.......
Regarding the conductivity of the bolts, contacts and contact strip. Is there any harm in letting it sit in a rust remover solution? Everything just has minor rust around some of the threads. There is really no serious damage anywhere. I can't imagine soaking in a solution would cause any detriment.
....
The past is a great place and I don't want to erase it or to regret it, but I don't want to be its prisoner either.
Mick Jagger
Mick Jagger
-
- Posts: 1554
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 11:16 am
- First Name: Don
- Last Name: Allen
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1924 Touring
- Location: Houston, TX
- MTFCA Number: 50001
Re: Basket Case Speedster Build Thread
I bought the resin kit and it made a big difference. My original box was pretty rotten as well.
I just wire brushed the contact areas with a little Dremel tool wire wheel and left the rest alone.
I just wire brushed the contact areas with a little Dremel tool wire wheel and left the rest alone.
1924 Touring
-
- Posts: 427
- Joined: Mon Jan 21, 2019 4:14 pm
- First Name: Ken
- Last Name: Buhler
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1927 Roadster 1927 Coupe
- Location: Kelowna B.C.
- MTFCA Number: 49471
- Board Member Since: 2012
Re: Basket Case Speedster Build Thread
Ryan,
That quadrant is toast, the teeth in the area for final pull/tight are worn gone. George Moir has them in your city in Spruce Grove. I think it is fair to ask about the hardness of the teeth.
That quadrant is toast, the teeth in the area for final pull/tight are worn gone. George Moir has them in your city in Spruce Grove. I think it is fair to ask about the hardness of the teeth.
Work honestly
Stay true to your word
Get the job done right
Stay true to your word
Get the job done right
-
- Posts: 686
- Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2020 8:00 am
- First Name: Jonah
- Last Name: D'Avella
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926 Touring
- Location: Kingsport TN
- Board Member Since: 2020
Re: Basket Case Speedster Build Thread
when I rebuilt my coil box, i used new bolts and nuts and put silicone greece in between all electrical connections. also, I used a wire wheel and a buffer wheel to clean up those brass contacts.
-
Topic author - Posts: 96
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 2:24 pm
- First Name: Ryan
- Last Name: Fenrich
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: Speedster Project
- Location: Edmonton
Ground Clearance, lowering frame
I've done a few mockups for my eventual speedster, and this one has been my most recent scale draft.
I'd like to lower as much as I can, but I know that comes with problems.
1) Potential tie rod, radius rod, etc. interference
2) drain plug (lowest point of clearance..?) can get low to the ground
The number I have in my head is 3", simply because that's the lowest that Nostalgia Sid drops T axles. I've only heard good things about Nostalgia Sid on this forum which is why I have that in mind.
I'm asking for recommendations on axle dropping, but mainly if 3" is an overkill, and if so, are they for the reasons listed above or for something else?
I'd like to lower as much as I can, but I know that comes with problems.
1) Potential tie rod, radius rod, etc. interference
2) drain plug (lowest point of clearance..?) can get low to the ground
The number I have in my head is 3", simply because that's the lowest that Nostalgia Sid drops T axles. I've only heard good things about Nostalgia Sid on this forum which is why I have that in mind.
I'm asking for recommendations on axle dropping, but mainly if 3" is an overkill, and if so, are they for the reasons listed above or for something else?
-
- Posts: 558
- Joined: Wed Jun 17, 2020 1:41 pm
- First Name: Kevin
- Last Name: Matthiesen
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 26 T Coupe, 16 T Open Express, 21 TT Flatbed. 15 T Roadster, 13 & 25 T Speedster , 51 Mercury 4 door sport sedan, 67 Mercury Cougar
- Location: Madera CA 93636
- MTFCA Number: 11598
Re: Basket Case Speedster Build Thread
Sid's dropped axels are great. I have a 2 inch and 3 inch drop, both stretched. Make sure you get a dropped and stretched axle so the kingpin to kingpin is stock T measure, that way you can use a stock tie rod. If you want more drop thain the 3 inch you can use 1926-27 T spindles to get another 1/2 inch drop. More front drop can be added over this by using a 1926-27 front spring because of its lower crown thain pre 26 spring, about 3/4 of a inch lower. Next a reversed eye front spring will add another 1 inch drop. All this drop is over 5 inches so make sure you plan out your rear drop, lower crown spring, reversed eye, Zd frame, etc. You may decide that the 3 to 4 inch drop is fine for you., it all depends on your overall build, more drop would be OK also.
-
- Posts: 558
- Joined: Wed Jun 17, 2020 1:41 pm
- First Name: Kevin
- Last Name: Matthiesen
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 26 T Coupe, 16 T Open Express, 21 TT Flatbed. 15 T Roadster, 13 & 25 T Speedster , 51 Mercury 4 door sport sedan, 67 Mercury Cougar
- Location: Madera CA 93636
- MTFCA Number: 11598
Re: Basket Case Speedster Build Thread
After looking at your drawing I should have added to make sure that your tie rod and steering drag link clear your engine pan. You should be OK with a 3 inch to 4 inch drop. I am assuming that you are going to use a 1919 or later front wishbone that mounts under the axle.
-
- Posts: 1069
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 12:18 pm
- First Name: John
- Last Name: Warren
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 14 Roadster, 25 Pickup , 26 Canadian Touring , and a 24-28 TA race car
- Location: Henderson, Nevada
Re: Basket Case Speedster Build Thread
Ryan, I am looking forward to your build. Love the drawings. Keep us posted.jw
24-28 TA race car, 26 Canadian touring, 25 Roadster pickup, 14 Roadster, and 11AB Maxwell runabout
Keep it simple and keep a good junk pile if you want to invent something
Keep it simple and keep a good junk pile if you want to invent something
-
Topic author - Posts: 96
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 2:24 pm
- First Name: Ryan
- Last Name: Fenrich
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: Speedster Project
- Location: Edmonton
Re: Basket Case Speedster Build Thread
Kevin, you are correct in assuming I'm using the under-axle wishbone. If nothing else, the safety issue with the over-axle is the main reason why. I would like to lower as much as I can, barring any drivability/safety issues. I'd hate to hit a huge bump in the road and have my drain plug scrape and get ruined, or have any piece bearing an abnormally large amount of stress.
For the rear, I was going to start with removing some leafs from the spring, especially as there will be very little weight near the rear of the car. Reversing the eye is something I didn't consider much, mainly as I don't have the skill set...yet. Trying new things and learning new skills is kind of the point of speedsters, though, isn't it?
Thanks everyone for your replies
For the rear, I was going to start with removing some leafs from the spring, especially as there will be very little weight near the rear of the car. Reversing the eye is something I didn't consider much, mainly as I don't have the skill set...yet. Trying new things and learning new skills is kind of the point of speedsters, though, isn't it?
Thanks everyone for your replies
-
- Posts: 1311
- Joined: Thu Jan 10, 2019 5:47 pm
- First Name: Les
- Last Name: Schubert
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 27 roadster 13 touring
- Location: Calgary
Re: Basket Case Speedster Build Thread
Standens in Calgary can make you a new reverse eye main leaf (they made me one a couple of years ago). I can help you with that if you want
-
- Posts: 5412
- Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2019 4:56 pm
- First Name: Frank
- Last Name: Brandi
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: Speedster (1919 w 1926)
- Location: Moline IL
- Board Member Since: 2018
Re: Basket Case Speedster Build Thread
This is a most important point, so don't get ahead of yourself. As stated you need to watch out for the tie rod and/or drag link interfering with the radius rods and pan. So do the math first before you spend. Having said that, you need to determine what your use and/or replace. For example are your starting with a high arch 7 leaf spring or low arch.kmatt2 wrote: ↑Tue Oct 20, 2020 3:40 amAfter looking at your drawing I should have added to make sure that your tie rod and steering drag link clear your engine pan. You should be OK with a 3 inch to 4 inch drop. I am assuming that you are going to use a 1919 or later front wishbone that mounts under the axle.
Here are some height differences for different spring configurations So what components do you have now for an axle, front spring and spindles. If your axle isn't in good shape and needs work (needs new bushings, isn't straight etc) may as well get the dropped axle. Its likely your spring is in good shape but which is it?
I successfully reversed eye my front spring (should be called re-arched ) following this video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ldwUHFBwN7o If you planning a speedster that would be lighter than a Model T could be an option http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/118802/166494.html
The past is a great place and I don't want to erase it or to regret it, but I don't want to be its prisoner either.
Mick Jagger
Mick Jagger
-
- Posts: 253
- Joined: Tue Jan 15, 2019 6:06 am
- First Name: Chad
- Last Name: Marcheese
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1925 Cut Off Touring / Pickup, 1923 Doodlebug / 1924 Speedster Gow Job
- Location: Upstate, NY
- MTFCA Number: 26904
- Board Member Since: 2005
Re: Basket Case Speedster Build Thread
I don't have any good side shots of my build, but I can tell you 5" - 5.5" drop is probably all you'd want to do, and maintain a decent oil pan clearance. Lower is possible of course, but getting 5" is pretty easy and seems to be the most common. All of my drop is via my modified frame and I split the wishbone. There is all sorts of steering / suspension geometry to consider when doing this.
-
Topic author - Posts: 96
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 2:24 pm
- First Name: Ryan
- Last Name: Fenrich
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: Speedster Project
- Location: Edmonton
Re: Basket Case Speedster Build Thread
Les, thanks for reaching out. I'll get in touch with you when I next come down to Calgary. I'm optimistic that our Covid cases will be in check by the new year/early spring. There are many Model T resources in Calgary and I feel quite lucky to be so close, in addition to all of our guys up here.
Frank, I actually had no idea of the different springs and arches. Mine is currently stored away behind the shed, so I'll have to come back to this and check when the time comes.
In the meantime, I've almost finished the coil box. I'm amazed at how effortlessly the points clean up with a bit of emery cloth. Though, the carriage bolts have no square notches to fit in on the plastic rebuild kit. Perhaps this is a case of having to do more work to remanufactured parts before they're ready. Hopefully I can started on the coil ring before the end of the week.
Frank, I actually had no idea of the different springs and arches. Mine is currently stored away behind the shed, so I'll have to come back to this and check when the time comes.
In the meantime, I've almost finished the coil box. I'm amazed at how effortlessly the points clean up with a bit of emery cloth. Though, the carriage bolts have no square notches to fit in on the plastic rebuild kit. Perhaps this is a case of having to do more work to remanufactured parts before they're ready. Hopefully I can started on the coil ring before the end of the week.
-
- Posts: 5205
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 7:21 pm
- First Name: Allan
- Last Name: Bennett
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1912 van, 1917 shooting brake, 1929 roadster buckboard, 1924 tourer, 1925 barn find buckboard, 1925 D &F wide body roadster, 1927LHD Tudor sedan.
- Location: Gawler, Australia
Re: Basket Case Speedster Build Thread
Ryan, the square under a carriage bolt head is there to hold the bolt steady while the nut is tensioned. The square pulls into the medium into which it is fitted. This may be easier in wood rather than the plastic used in the kits. When I fit the kits, I fit the contacts before fitting the panels to the box. That way the bolts can be tapped home in the round holes, prior to fitting the porcelain insulators, thus not relying on the the nuts drawing the bolt in, and he load applied possibly crushing the porcelains.
Allan from down under.
Allan from down under.
-
Topic author - Posts: 96
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 2:24 pm
- First Name: Ryan
- Last Name: Fenrich
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: Speedster Project
- Location: Edmonton
Re: Basket Case Speedster Build Thread
Thanks Allan. I did just that and all was good.
Two questions though:
The old insulators virtually disintegrated when I took the nuts off the porcelain. I almost forgot about them until I was using emery cloth to clean the nuts, until I unintentionally disintegrated one on the cloth. Are these things I need to replace?
I have this small piece left over. It's got a square hole, so my first thought was for the bolt that provides power from the magneto/battery. However, the head of the bolt gets soldered onto the wire for the bottom strip, correct? The plastic kit is also grossly undersized for it to fit, whereas it had plenty of room in the old wood box. I don't know how the magneto/battery connects to this bolt from the back. It surely can't be that different from the connectors to the spark plugs/ground? It doesn't go here, does it? It wasn't on the back when I took the box apart.
Two questions though:
The old insulators virtually disintegrated when I took the nuts off the porcelain. I almost forgot about them until I was using emery cloth to clean the nuts, until I unintentionally disintegrated one on the cloth. Are these things I need to replace?
I have this small piece left over. It's got a square hole, so my first thought was for the bolt that provides power from the magneto/battery. However, the head of the bolt gets soldered onto the wire for the bottom strip, correct? The plastic kit is also grossly undersized for it to fit, whereas it had plenty of room in the old wood box. I don't know how the magneto/battery connects to this bolt from the back. It surely can't be that different from the connectors to the spark plugs/ground? It doesn't go here, does it? It wasn't on the back when I took the box apart.
-
- Posts: 5205
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 7:21 pm
- First Name: Allan
- Last Name: Bennett
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1912 van, 1917 shooting brake, 1929 roadster buckboard, 1924 tourer, 1925 barn find buckboard, 1925 D &F wide body roadster, 1927LHD Tudor sedan.
- Location: Gawler, Australia
Re: Basket Case Speedster Build Thread
Ryan, both the battery and magneto connections are soldered to the strip in the bottom of the coilbox. From there the wires follow a groove in the underside of the base timber/plastic. These grooves meet with corresponding groves on the inside of the back panel, and the wire follows that groove to the terminal bolt. The little terminal you have is likely used on one of those. The same effect can be had by soldering the wire directly to the bolt head.
The porcelains can be quite fragile, and may well have been cracked before you started working on them. The earlier glazed ones were more robust. I have 14 later ones put aside to select 10 good ones for a box on which I am presently working.
Allan from own under.
The porcelains can be quite fragile, and may well have been cracked before you started working on them. The earlier glazed ones were more robust. I have 14 later ones put aside to select 10 good ones for a box on which I am presently working.
Allan from own under.
-
Topic author - Posts: 96
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 2:24 pm
- First Name: Ryan
- Last Name: Fenrich
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: Speedster Project
- Location: Edmonton
Re: Basket Case Speedster Build Thread
Sorry for such a late reply Allan,Allan wrote: ↑Sun Oct 25, 2020 10:33 pmRyan, both the battery and magneto connections are soldered to the strip in the bottom of the coilbox. From there the wires follow a groove in the underside of the base timber/plastic. These grooves meet with corresponding groves on the inside of the back panel, and the wire follows that groove to the terminal bolt. The little terminal you have is likely used on one of those. The same effect can be had by soldering the wire directly to the bolt head.
The porcelains can be quite fragile, and may well have been cracked before you started working on them. The earlier glazed ones were more robust. I have 14 later ones put aside to select 10 good ones for a box on which I am presently working.
Allan from own under.
Do you know where I could find an illustration of the various connections for the coil box? I have seen all the grooves, but am unfamiliar with every single one's use! Perhaps it's such a simple thing for T gurus that they don't exist, as a search for me returned only more broad wiring diagrams.
Another question. For carrying spares for wooden fellow non-demountable 30x3.5 clinchers, did period practice involve carrying an extra tube (inflated?) and rim as well? I figure for non-demountables, the extra rim doesn't provide much use, correct? That's why some early cars carried a spare wheel as well. I'd like to carry a spare obviously, I just don't want to forget anything needed for non-demountables.
-
- Posts: 558
- Joined: Wed Jun 17, 2020 1:41 pm
- First Name: Kevin
- Last Name: Matthiesen
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 26 T Coupe, 16 T Open Express, 21 TT Flatbed. 15 T Roadster, 13 & 25 T Speedster , 51 Mercury 4 door sport sedan, 67 Mercury Cougar
- Location: Madera CA 93636
- MTFCA Number: 11598
Re: Basket Case Speedster Build Thread
Your speedster drawing shows two spare tires
mounted on the back deck. The car looks nice and period correct like that. Yes you can keep each spare tube in the spare tire partially inflated, I have used about 10 psi for rubber stems, metal stem psi might be different, I don't know on that. Make sure you have room to carry tire irons and supplies to change tire on the rim. You can make leather straps and footman loops to mount the spairs to the deck. Note that the USA cars used 30 x 3 inch tires in the front and many speedsters build in teens kept these wheels on the front because they used what they had. Your car project is going great, enjoy your build .
mounted on the back deck. The car looks nice and period correct like that. Yes you can keep each spare tube in the spare tire partially inflated, I have used about 10 psi for rubber stems, metal stem psi might be different, I don't know on that. Make sure you have room to carry tire irons and supplies to change tire on the rim. You can make leather straps and footman loops to mount the spairs to the deck. Note that the USA cars used 30 x 3 inch tires in the front and many speedsters build in teens kept these wheels on the front because they used what they had. Your car project is going great, enjoy your build .
-
- Posts: 2780
- Joined: Wed Jan 16, 2019 10:13 pm
- First Name: Tom
- Last Name: Rootlieb
- Location: Ohio
- MTFCA Number: 440
Re: Basket Case Speedster Build Thread
Just some food for thought. This is a 4” dropped axle using 26-27 spindles. They use early straight spindle arms. This places the tie rod above the upper wishbone and right below the engine pan. When you drop an axle 4”, you narrow the track slightly. And with the tie rod to long, you are now able to drop the tie rod in the area under the pan making it shorter to work with the axle. This car used a stock tapered leaf front spring so it will have full suspension travel.
-
- Posts: 5205
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 7:21 pm
- First Name: Allan
- Last Name: Bennett
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1912 van, 1917 shooting brake, 1929 roadster buckboard, 1924 tourer, 1925 barn find buckboard, 1925 D &F wide body roadster, 1927LHD Tudor sedan.
- Location: Gawler, Australia
Re: Basket Case Speedster Build Thread
Fellows, some food for thought. With a 5" drop at the front, the spindle height will be that far above its usual position. Any shock to the front end will have a far greater rotating force on the front axle than was ever the case on the standard configuration. While an under axle wishbone is usually the better choice, I wonder if an over the axle type may be better in this situation. Its mounting will be much closer to that of the standard under axle job in this application. This is one area where perhaps both should be fitted.
Ryan, when trying to organise the steering geometry under the motor, keep in mind that the bent spindle arms on the later cars can be swapped from side to side to allow the bend to go down rther than up. This may help getting things to clear.
Allan from down under.
Ryan, when trying to organise the steering geometry under the motor, keep in mind that the bent spindle arms on the later cars can be swapped from side to side to allow the bend to go down rther than up. This may help getting things to clear.
Allan from down under.
-
- Posts: 2780
- Joined: Wed Jan 16, 2019 10:13 pm
- First Name: Tom
- Last Name: Rootlieb
- Location: Ohio
- MTFCA Number: 440
Re: Basket Case Speedster Build Thread
Here is the rear suspension. Stock with helper springs to soften the ride. The frame was stepped 6”.
-
- Posts: 2780
- Joined: Wed Jan 16, 2019 10:13 pm
- First Name: Tom
- Last Name: Rootlieb
- Location: Ohio
- MTFCA Number: 440
Re: Basket Case Speedster Build Thread
And here is the finished profile. A much lowered chassis that still has full suspension travel while keeping a stock wheelbase.
I hope this gives you some ideas. The nice part is it’s your car to do as you please. So have at it my friend.-
Topic author - Posts: 96
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 2:24 pm
- First Name: Ryan
- Last Name: Fenrich
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: Speedster Project
- Location: Edmonton
Re: Basket Case Speedster Build Thread
I don't know if I'd venture to drop the car much lower than 3"-4". I'd like to keep the geometry as simple as I can relative to the increase in drop height. I have been mindful of wishbones as well. I've considered using both, Allan. Am I correct in thinking that two wishbones equates to more rigidity/safety? I imagine that either wishbone would pickup the same amount of stress if it were to be fitted solo. Surely it's that simple?
That's very nice workmanship Tom. Quite pleasing on the eye, and I love looking at all the typical T pieces made to work in the lowered car! Very cool.
I've been doing more work on the ignition parts, mainly the field coil. I'm at a bit of a standstill until I can get the thing sandblasted, but I'm looking forward to rigging up and rewinding the ribbons on a mandrel when I can move on with that. It leads me to a new question though.
I don't want to put a starter on the car. I'd like to have a small battery than can provide good spark to the car for crank starting, but otherwise run a magneto wiring system for lights, horn, etc. My ignition box is for a starter-equipped Model T. I don't yet have a switch. Will this ignition box be a problem for the wiring of a non-starter T? I'm finding multiple wiring diagrams and I'm hoping someone can please point me in the right direction.
https://www.modeltcentral.com/Model-T-F ... erial.html
Am I missing a terminal post here? I've seen diagrams with and without one. Was it early cars had a separate post for both the battery and mag, and then later ones just had the one?
And without a starter, I would like to be real cautious with battery connection, and be able to easily disconnect/kill the battery when parked. On my A, the starter has a fuse which I'm told is one of the best protections against electrical fires. Is the standard Ford switch turned to "off" enough, or do most people run a separate battery disconnect switch as a precaution as well?
Again, thanks for all replies. I'm still a rookie, trying to absorb as much as I can!
That's very nice workmanship Tom. Quite pleasing on the eye, and I love looking at all the typical T pieces made to work in the lowered car! Very cool.
I've been doing more work on the ignition parts, mainly the field coil. I'm at a bit of a standstill until I can get the thing sandblasted, but I'm looking forward to rigging up and rewinding the ribbons on a mandrel when I can move on with that. It leads me to a new question though.
I don't want to put a starter on the car. I'd like to have a small battery than can provide good spark to the car for crank starting, but otherwise run a magneto wiring system for lights, horn, etc. My ignition box is for a starter-equipped Model T. I don't yet have a switch. Will this ignition box be a problem for the wiring of a non-starter T? I'm finding multiple wiring diagrams and I'm hoping someone can please point me in the right direction.
https://www.modeltcentral.com/Model-T-F ... erial.html
Am I missing a terminal post here? I've seen diagrams with and without one. Was it early cars had a separate post for both the battery and mag, and then later ones just had the one?
And without a starter, I would like to be real cautious with battery connection, and be able to easily disconnect/kill the battery when parked. On my A, the starter has a fuse which I'm told is one of the best protections against electrical fires. Is the standard Ford switch turned to "off" enough, or do most people run a separate battery disconnect switch as a precaution as well?
Again, thanks for all replies. I'm still a rookie, trying to absorb as much as I can!
-
- Posts: 5205
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 7:21 pm
- First Name: Allan
- Last Name: Bennett
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1912 van, 1917 shooting brake, 1929 roadster buckboard, 1924 tourer, 1925 barn find buckboard, 1925 D &F wide body roadster, 1927LHD Tudor sedan.
- Location: Gawler, Australia
Re: Basket Case Speedster Build Thread
Ryan, strength and rigidity it is, especially needed with a dropped axle. I found a period set-up for my speedster. It ran the standard top mount wishbone. The lower one was crafted from a second one. The front ends were cut off and the tubes simply flattened and drilled to fit the perch threads below the axle. The ball at the rear was notched to nestle against the throat of the top wishbone Y. They had fashioned a pair of plates to clamp the two together, with a bolt either side of the lower ball. Those plates still bore the stamped in brand of the cultivator share they had used to make them.
Allan from down under.
Allan from down under.
-
Topic author - Posts: 96
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 2:24 pm
- First Name: Ryan
- Last Name: Fenrich
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: Speedster Project
- Location: Edmonton
Re: Basket Case Speedster Build Thread
Just an update on my progress over the past couple of months. I've asked questions in lots of other threads, but it's nice to consolidate the whole build here to look back on some day.
I cleaned all of my coils (bobbins?) from the field coil ring in December. Was a little hard on the back with my crude set up, but it worked. They sat for about a month and a half until I could get them wound. To do that, my friend helped me with building the mandrel. We split a dowel with the proper diameter, then scrap wood made for a crude but usable device. Took a couple days to wind the coils up. I could only manage about four per day in the garage, as we've been having -20 C weather for a little while now. Today I finished them, and it's almost a shame to have to insulate them with how nice they look! The labels tell me the number of turns so I can ensure they will be uniform before I insulate and ultimately connect them. To my surprise, I will have 25 complete turns for all coils, which is something even literature says is unlikely do to the nature of losing a certain amount of material each time.
Next is to make sure my stator ring is usable. I took it with me to a club member's house (thank you Chris B!) and sandblasted it. It appears to have been submerged in water for quite some time. The bottom two poles/cores have a lot of pitting, and I'm not sure they can be ground flat without losing too much height.
I cleaned all of my coils (bobbins?) from the field coil ring in December. Was a little hard on the back with my crude set up, but it worked. They sat for about a month and a half until I could get them wound. To do that, my friend helped me with building the mandrel. We split a dowel with the proper diameter, then scrap wood made for a crude but usable device. Took a couple days to wind the coils up. I could only manage about four per day in the garage, as we've been having -20 C weather for a little while now. Today I finished them, and it's almost a shame to have to insulate them with how nice they look! The labels tell me the number of turns so I can ensure they will be uniform before I insulate and ultimately connect them. To my surprise, I will have 25 complete turns for all coils, which is something even literature says is unlikely do to the nature of losing a certain amount of material each time.
Next is to make sure my stator ring is usable. I took it with me to a club member's house (thank you Chris B!) and sandblasted it. It appears to have been submerged in water for quite some time. The bottom two poles/cores have a lot of pitting, and I'm not sure they can be ground flat without losing too much height.
-
Topic author - Posts: 96
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 2:24 pm
- First Name: Ryan
- Last Name: Fenrich
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: Speedster Project
- Location: Edmonton
Re: Basket Case Speedster Build Thread
Attached are more photos of the ring. Do the tops have to be perfectly flat in order to function, or just ground level (if necessary) in relation to each other to ensure the magnets will rotate with a uniform gap?
-
- Posts: 5205
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 7:21 pm
- First Name: Allan
- Last Name: Bennett
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1912 van, 1917 shooting brake, 1929 roadster buckboard, 1924 tourer, 1925 barn find buckboard, 1925 D &F wide body roadster, 1927LHD Tudor sedan.
- Location: Gawler, Australia
Re: Basket Case Speedster Build Thread
Ryan, if you can't find a less pitted plate, that one will do. I would leave the finishing of the poles till everything else is done. Tape the coils, fit the insulating washers to the plate, fit and connect the coils, have it all varnished, and then have it ground flat. A machine shop with a flywheel grinder can do this. This will also remove any varnish from the poles and ensure they are all the same height.
This will give you a head start when setting the magneto gap.
Allan from down under.
This will give you a head start when setting the magneto gap.
Allan from down under.
-
Topic author - Posts: 96
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 2:24 pm
- First Name: Ryan
- Last Name: Fenrich
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: Speedster Project
- Location: Edmonton
Re: Basket Case Speedster Build Thread
Thanks Allan. For what it's worth, here is the maximum clearance I have prior to priming, the insulating gasket paper, and any grinding on the poles. I am also placing a lot of pressure on that side of the coil!
I did finish all sixteen coils tonight. I don't want to test fit just yet for fear of damaging any of the insulation. My thought is to grind the ring first, and determine whether or not it is usable before mounting the coils.
I did finish all sixteen coils tonight. I don't want to test fit just yet for fear of damaging any of the insulation. My thought is to grind the ring first, and determine whether or not it is usable before mounting the coils.
-
Topic author - Posts: 96
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 2:24 pm
- First Name: Ryan
- Last Name: Fenrich
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: Speedster Project
- Location: Edmonton
Re: Basket Case Speedster Build Thread
I hit a major snag today and not sure how to proceed.
I had a sneaking suspicion I made the mandrel too small for the mag coils, and sure enough, they are too tight to be hammered onto the ring. I’ve tried hammering gently and not so gently. I’ve tried clamping them on. I even tried torching the end of a coil with a cigarette lighter hoping to expand the copper and shrink fit it on. The only thing I accomplished was damage to two coils.
I really don’t know what to do at this point. I don’t have enough tape to rewrap them after potentially rewinding them, and shipping in two more rolls will be over $100 for me.
I’m mighty frustrated. Is there any remedy at all?
I had a sneaking suspicion I made the mandrel too small for the mag coils, and sure enough, they are too tight to be hammered onto the ring. I’ve tried hammering gently and not so gently. I’ve tried clamping them on. I even tried torching the end of a coil with a cigarette lighter hoping to expand the copper and shrink fit it on. The only thing I accomplished was damage to two coils.
I really don’t know what to do at this point. I don’t have enough tape to rewrap them after potentially rewinding them, and shipping in two more rolls will be over $100 for me.
I’m mighty frustrated. Is there any remedy at all?
-
- Posts: 5205
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 7:21 pm
- First Name: Allan
- Last Name: Bennett
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1912 van, 1917 shooting brake, 1929 roadster buckboard, 1924 tourer, 1925 barn find buckboard, 1925 D &F wide body roadster, 1927LHD Tudor sedan.
- Location: Gawler, Australia
Re: Basket Case Speedster Build Thread
That's a real bummer Ryan. Perhaps the obvious is the best answer. Just reduce the size of the poles on the mounting plate. A die grinder with a cylindrical carbide burr mat get you there. Just work around each pole until you can get a coil to fit. It will cost you some time, and the outlay for a burr, but you will find other uses for it. Others may be able to tell you if this is not the way to go for some reason.
Allan from down under.
Allan from down under.
-
Topic author - Posts: 96
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 2:24 pm
- First Name: Ryan
- Last Name: Fenrich
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: Speedster Project
- Location: Edmonton
Re: Basket Case Speedster Build Thread
Thanks Alan. Unfortunately I’ve no budget or space for more tools at the moment.
I tried doing the opposite, actually. Slicing open the tape and unwinding the copper from the inside
Quick test shows that is doesn’t ground to the ring. But the height clearance worries me. I don’t have the ability to hammer the twist of copper, and the tape that I put back on the inside is not tight. It just kind of squishes and falls off.
I’ll revisit this tomorrow. Not enough patience this late in the day.
UPDATE: It grounds to the ring. I’ve ruined it beyond repair. Makes me wonder what the hell I’ve gotten myself into.
I tried doing the opposite, actually. Slicing open the tape and unwinding the copper from the inside
Quick test shows that is doesn’t ground to the ring. But the height clearance worries me. I don’t have the ability to hammer the twist of copper, and the tape that I put back on the inside is not tight. It just kind of squishes and falls off.
I’ll revisit this tomorrow. Not enough patience this late in the day.
UPDATE: It grounds to the ring. I’ve ruined it beyond repair. Makes me wonder what the hell I’ve gotten myself into.
-
- Posts: 1011
- Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2019 10:18 pm
- First Name: Mark
- Last Name: Osterman
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1923 runabout
- Location: Rochester, NY
- Contact:
Re: Basket Case Speedster Build Thread
If you want a better cast iron field coil for your rebuild I’ll give it to you if you pay the postage.
-
Topic author - Posts: 96
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 2:24 pm
- First Name: Ryan
- Last Name: Fenrich
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: Speedster Project
- Location: Edmonton
Re: Basket Case Speedster Build Thread
A fellow club member Chris B offered his expertise, and we ground down one of the poles.
This did work with an early test. However, it did prove fairly labour intensive. As it sits, this will be the last resort method.
We made the mandrel wider by wrapping three layers of 0.007” tape. I then grabbed a coil, unwrapped it, unwound it, rewound it on the new mandrel, and finally rewrapped it with the original tape. Early results look promising.
I haven’t hammered it down yet, but I could get it flush with just my hand strength, and I didn’t have to force much.
Here’s hoping I can still salvage this after my mistake, and may others learn!
This did work with an early test. However, it did prove fairly labour intensive. As it sits, this will be the last resort method.
We made the mandrel wider by wrapping three layers of 0.007” tape. I then grabbed a coil, unwrapped it, unwound it, rewound it on the new mandrel, and finally rewrapped it with the original tape. Early results look promising.
I haven’t hammered it down yet, but I could get it flush with just my hand strength, and I didn’t have to force much.
Here’s hoping I can still salvage this after my mistake, and may others learn!
-
Topic author - Posts: 96
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 2:24 pm
- First Name: Ryan
- Last Name: Fenrich
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: Speedster Project
- Location: Edmonton
Re: Basket Case Speedster Build Thread
The lowest poles still provide a bit of height over the poles. I’m still a wee bit nervous on the usability of this, but as of right now, it seems to be okay.
-
Topic author - Posts: 96
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 2:24 pm
- First Name: Ryan
- Last Name: Fenrich
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: Speedster Project
- Location: Edmonton
Re: Basket Case Speedster Build Thread
Things have been sitting for a while, but have finally made some progress on the build.
The field coils have finally been epoxied down; just need to solder and seal, which should be done in an afternoon. I'm in the process of "rusting" up my coil box lid to match the base. The base has a beautiful layer of rust and patina, courtesy of mother nature. Matching the lid is a work in progress, but hydrogen peroxide, vinegar, and salt have brought me to these early results. The photo following is mother nature's art project. I spent an evening at Chris Bamford's garage, and he donated some aged but usable wiring for my box. I'm just about ready to tuck this project away. I'm looking forward to when the car is half built in the future garage where I can just insert the ignition system in and drive away. Thanks to MTFCA for where I've gotten to at this point. The forum replies, messages, emails, and in person help has been a huge head start.
The field coils have finally been epoxied down; just need to solder and seal, which should be done in an afternoon. I'm in the process of "rusting" up my coil box lid to match the base. The base has a beautiful layer of rust and patina, courtesy of mother nature. Matching the lid is a work in progress, but hydrogen peroxide, vinegar, and salt have brought me to these early results. The photo following is mother nature's art project. I spent an evening at Chris Bamford's garage, and he donated some aged but usable wiring for my box. I'm just about ready to tuck this project away. I'm looking forward to when the car is half built in the future garage where I can just insert the ignition system in and drive away. Thanks to MTFCA for where I've gotten to at this point. The forum replies, messages, emails, and in person help has been a huge head start.
-
Topic author - Posts: 96
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 2:24 pm
- First Name: Ryan
- Last Name: Fenrich
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: Speedster Project
- Location: Edmonton
Re: Basket Case Speedster Build Thread
The electrical system has kept me awfully busy. Today I was able to begin on an entirely new part. The wooden wheels donated to me need a lot of work. I should have four useable but in need of repair non-demountable rims. Other rim hardware and hubs are questionable, which I why I began disassembly today. I tried tackling three of them, but could only get two of the hubs apart.
The spokes and felloes are good for show. My friends get a kick out of the hands on stuff. Pulling the original spokes in and out will be a fun party trick. Pretty boring party trick, but hey. Covid has set the bar super low for entertainment over the last year.
The spokes and felloes are good for show. My friends get a kick out of the hands on stuff. Pulling the original spokes in and out will be a fun party trick. Pretty boring party trick, but hey. Covid has set the bar super low for entertainment over the last year.
-
Topic author - Posts: 96
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 2:24 pm
- First Name: Ryan
- Last Name: Fenrich
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: Speedster Project
- Location: Edmonton
Re: Basket Case Speedster Build Thread
This thread has been idle, but the car has not been.
The magneto was finished earlier this month. It was a lot of work, I made many mistakes which had to be rectified, but I'm glad to say that I rebuilt it and that it's finished.
I've dug deep into the wheels. I finally removed the final two felloes from the rims, after having some help remove two tires yesterday. I was prepared for a whole lot of wrestling with the old rubber, but was pleasantly surprised with how quick we got them off. I'm less apprehensive about having non-demountables than I initially was.
I need to go through the rim edges to straighten them. New hardware must be replaced or remade, and whatever preparations are needed for the wheelwright. I'm trying to preserve the patinaed look as best as I can.
The magneto was finished earlier this month. It was a lot of work, I made many mistakes which had to be rectified, but I'm glad to say that I rebuilt it and that it's finished.
I've dug deep into the wheels. I finally removed the final two felloes from the rims, after having some help remove two tires yesterday. I was prepared for a whole lot of wrestling with the old rubber, but was pleasantly surprised with how quick we got them off. I'm less apprehensive about having non-demountables than I initially was.
I need to go through the rim edges to straighten them. New hardware must be replaced or remade, and whatever preparations are needed for the wheelwright. I'm trying to preserve the patinaed look as best as I can.