MTFCA Forum

Also put this in a box this morning, off to the owner. Came in covered in a quarter of an inch of old grease and dirt, missing some parts, headed back out.

Couple pics here of how I do the needle and seat for these. I find the new vendor ones take about as much time to get to stop leaking as making this seat conversion does and this puts a viton tipped needle that is easily replaceable if it ever does go bad.

Couple more pics of this one. Bear in mind I am not looking for carbs to rebuild, I am not taking in any more work for this year, I am selling off inventory and trying to clear the backlog of repair work. I just thought somebody might find this interesting.

Got interrupted before I got the last of the photos loaded.

Thats beautiful Stan. I Hope you get thing out the door soon so you can show some work on your own projects.

Beautiful work, as always, Stan. You’re an artist with brass and steel. What paint do you use for carbs?

I just thought somebody might find this interesting.

Yes, I do. That sure looks swell, right down to the bronze lock washers. Very cool. What do you use for a float on those? Fix the old one, or use the plastic stuff from the parts dealers?

I make them from some float material I discovered awhile back. I'm not sure where it comes from, I buy it from a guy in Indiana I've rebuilt several industrial engine carbs for. Much stronger than anything else I've found. Doesn't take on fuel load after sitting for weeks for months, easy to machine and while 5 floats from the suppliers are close to a C note, this stuff is about 1/3 of that in a block, I cut it to rough shape and machine it on a cheapy Enco lathe I bought just for doing floats. Stinks but hold up well to machining. It is a much finer grain than the ones from whoever makes them and according to what I was told was developed specifically for floats. I buy it in thick enough blocks to be able to make those odd ones in Kingston 5 balls.

Thanks, Steve
I don't like them tarted up like a cheap hooker, I like a little smooth bling and just the right amount of Jewelry. I like the brass screws and bronze lock washers, etc. I also make those bowl nuts, they are 1 inch x 24 tpi, I make them with a slight riser to put pressure in the right place for the gasket to seal + don't they just look SPIFFY!!!! I like spiffy!!

I also do things like replace the pin in the drain cock with a brass pin, the original steel ones are all rusted and pitted, I use Fillister head screws from McMaster Caar (so far American made -- might just be old stock, I can't imagine they are a big seller).

I do wish I had a source for brass bowls for G's. They are made from unobtainium. This is a powder coated steel one.

I dunno if you read my post on straightening bowls and re-doing the bottom mating surface with a jig, heat and a hammer but a lot of the bowls are way out of whack, need a bunch of work to get them straight and looking good.

I make a lot of parts. The clamp nut on this one had been scarred up by a pair of pliers somewhere back in time and I didn't have any left from the last batch so I made a dozen of them. I have 5 lathes and wish I had room for a couple more, it doesn't take much longer to make ten than it does one. They are 1/2 x 24 tpi. I have virtually every size tap and most dies in the Imperial world. Most of the more common sizes in Metric from 4 mm up to 22 mm in several thread pitches. It's surprising how much carb stuff is Metric.

Sorry Jim, I didn't see your question. No paint. I've never found paint that drys fast enough for me and that won't melt or soften in the new alcohol fuels. Any color you see on anything is powder coat. I use Black River or Cast Iron powder, spray the parts and cook them in a toaster oven. I buy powder either from Eastwood or some company that sells it on ebay. A ten dollar bag will do a lot of carb parts.

I need a new system, mine is a cheap Chinese one from ten or so years ago.