wood spoke paint?
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Topic author - Posts: 61
- Joined: Mon Jan 21, 2019 6:22 pm
- First Name: Nick
- Last Name: Miller
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926 touring
- Location: NRedington Bch, FL
- MTFCA Number: 31031
- MTFCI Number: 18935
wood spoke paint?
We are installing new spokes in all of our wheels in a 1926 touring. What prep work and paint should be used? Thanks for any help.
Nick
Nick
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- Posts: 4956
- Joined: Sat Jan 05, 2019 1:57 pm
- First Name: Mark
- Last Name: Gregush
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1925 cutdown PU, 1920 Dodge touring, 1948 F2 Ford flat head 6 pickup 3 speed
- Location: Portland Or
- MTFCA Number: 52564
- Board Member Since: 1999
Re: wood spoke paint?
You might want to delete one of your two post, so it does not get confusing later. Click on the pencil.
I know the voices aren't real but damn they have some good ideas!
1925 Cut down pickup
1920 Dodge touring
1948 Ford F2 pickup
1925 Cut down pickup
1920 Dodge touring
1948 Ford F2 pickup
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- Posts: 2202
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 10:55 pm
- First Name: James
- Last Name: Patrick
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926 Coupe
- Location: Bartow, FL
- MTFCA Number: 50126
- Board Member Since: 2001
Re: wood spoke paint?
I agree that it can become very confusing if one has posted the identical thread multiple time and in such cases, the duplicate threads should be deleted, but threads can only be deleted if there are 0 replies to it. Once a reply has been posted to it, it becomes permanent. Jim Patrick
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- Posts: 4956
- Joined: Sat Jan 05, 2019 1:57 pm
- First Name: Mark
- Last Name: Gregush
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1925 cutdown PU, 1920 Dodge touring, 1948 F2 Ford flat head 6 pickup 3 speed
- Location: Portland Or
- MTFCA Number: 52564
- Board Member Since: 1999
Re: wood spoke paint?
Ok then did not know about post with posting thing. It still could be edited, title and body to say duplicate post or such.
I know the voices aren't real but damn they have some good ideas!
1925 Cut down pickup
1920 Dodge touring
1948 Ford F2 pickup
1925 Cut down pickup
1920 Dodge touring
1948 Ford F2 pickup
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- Posts: 6463
- Joined: Fri Jan 04, 2019 9:37 pm
- First Name: Steve
- Last Name: Jelf
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1923 touring and a few projects
- Location: Parkerfield, Kansas
- MTFCA Number: 16175
- MTFCI Number: 14758
- Board Member Since: 2007
- Contact:
Re: wood spoke paint?
On the duplicate post put a link to the real post and say, "Here's a link to the real post."
The inevitable often happens.
1915 Runabout
1923 Touring
1915 Runabout
1923 Touring
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- Posts: 338
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 6:59 pm
- First Name: Gary
- Last Name: London
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1911 Touring
- Location: Camarillo
- MTFCA Number: 16592
Re: wood spoke paint?
I used a regular oil based primer, like you would use for the wood on your home. Use black, not white! After sanding that I shot them with a single stage automotive enamel. That has plenty of flex, it won't crack.
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- Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2019 6:01 pm
- First Name: R.V.
- Last Name: Anderson
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1914, 1920, 1923, 1923
- Location: Kennedy, NY
Re: wood spoke paint?
FWIW, here's how I do wood wheels. Mine still look beautiful and are nice and straight after almost 20 years of washing and sudden thunder storms.
Start the job by fully restoring your hubs and fellows, and assembling the wheel. Begin painting the wood by removing all dust with a good tack cloth. Use a good quality outdoor wood primer. I like and use Kover Stain, sold at Home Depot stores. Thinning the material about 10% with Penetrol paint conditioner makes it flow on a lot easier, which will save sanding. It can be tinted dark gray by the good folks in the paint department, or if you have access to a paint shaker you can buy the tint and do it yourself. Using a good quality 1-½” china bristle brush, apply one good coat. Let dry about an hour, sand lightly but thoroughly with 150 grit sandpaper and brush on a second coat. Let dry overnight.
Using a brush will work the primer more deeply into the wood grain, which is highly desirable.
Sand thoroughly again with 220 grit paper. When all the wood is velvet smooth, mount the tires. Inflate to 25 lbs or so and mask off completely in preparation for spraying on the sealer.
In order to spray an even coat and prevent runs, mounting the wheels on an easily rotated spindle of some sort is critical. I used a 30” length of 2 x 10 and mounted 2 pillow bearing blocks on it to support a 1” shaft, 36” long. Chuck the shaft in a lathe and drill and tap the end for a ½” bolt. Remove the bolt from the end of an old wheel puller, the type that threads onto the hub, and bolt it to the end of the shaft with the ½” bolt. Slip the shaft into place in the bearings, leaving 6” of shaft with the wheel puller overhanging the board, and run in the bearings’ set screws. Mount the whole works to the top of a wooden sawhorse with some 3” decking screws, plug the bearing hole with a rag or a wood or plastic plug, and you’re in business. If you like messing around and want to get fancy, you can mount a handwheel to the end opposite the puller.
Thread the hub of one wheel into the wheel puller and run it up snugly. You may need to put a counterweight on the opposite side of the sawhorse to keep it stable. I use a sleeve of tube sand. Then fire up your compressor and have at it. Follow the directions for your sealer and top coat from here on. When you've finished with the wheel, just keep it rotating slowly for 10-15 minutes and you will have no runs, sags, or fat edges of any kind. Easy peasy.
If an original or older re-spoked wheel won't retain paint in one spot and you find yourself constantly touching up bare spots, you have a fungus in the wood. Destroy it, not by using bleach or other chemicals, but by using a heat gun to heat the area to just below the point at which the wood surface scorches. Let it cool completely, then feather off the bubbled and burnt edges of the paint. Prime and proceed as you have been doing and you will find that the paint stays on.
Start the job by fully restoring your hubs and fellows, and assembling the wheel. Begin painting the wood by removing all dust with a good tack cloth. Use a good quality outdoor wood primer. I like and use Kover Stain, sold at Home Depot stores. Thinning the material about 10% with Penetrol paint conditioner makes it flow on a lot easier, which will save sanding. It can be tinted dark gray by the good folks in the paint department, or if you have access to a paint shaker you can buy the tint and do it yourself. Using a good quality 1-½” china bristle brush, apply one good coat. Let dry about an hour, sand lightly but thoroughly with 150 grit sandpaper and brush on a second coat. Let dry overnight.
Using a brush will work the primer more deeply into the wood grain, which is highly desirable.
Sand thoroughly again with 220 grit paper. When all the wood is velvet smooth, mount the tires. Inflate to 25 lbs or so and mask off completely in preparation for spraying on the sealer.
In order to spray an even coat and prevent runs, mounting the wheels on an easily rotated spindle of some sort is critical. I used a 30” length of 2 x 10 and mounted 2 pillow bearing blocks on it to support a 1” shaft, 36” long. Chuck the shaft in a lathe and drill and tap the end for a ½” bolt. Remove the bolt from the end of an old wheel puller, the type that threads onto the hub, and bolt it to the end of the shaft with the ½” bolt. Slip the shaft into place in the bearings, leaving 6” of shaft with the wheel puller overhanging the board, and run in the bearings’ set screws. Mount the whole works to the top of a wooden sawhorse with some 3” decking screws, plug the bearing hole with a rag or a wood or plastic plug, and you’re in business. If you like messing around and want to get fancy, you can mount a handwheel to the end opposite the puller.
Thread the hub of one wheel into the wheel puller and run it up snugly. You may need to put a counterweight on the opposite side of the sawhorse to keep it stable. I use a sleeve of tube sand. Then fire up your compressor and have at it. Follow the directions for your sealer and top coat from here on. When you've finished with the wheel, just keep it rotating slowly for 10-15 minutes and you will have no runs, sags, or fat edges of any kind. Easy peasy.
If an original or older re-spoked wheel won't retain paint in one spot and you find yourself constantly touching up bare spots, you have a fungus in the wood. Destroy it, not by using bleach or other chemicals, but by using a heat gun to heat the area to just below the point at which the wood surface scorches. Let it cool completely, then feather off the bubbled and burnt edges of the paint. Prime and proceed as you have been doing and you will find that the paint stays on.