For All Eternity
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Topic author - Posts: 26
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 4:47 pm
- First Name: John
- Last Name: Neal
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1925 Roadster Pickup
- Location: Alexandria, VA
For All Eternity
I swear that at the end of my life, should my Maker decide to send me to that warmer place, I will spend all eternity seeking the Ford engineer who aligned the Bendix cover screws with the transmission pedal linkage for surely he occupies the darkest corner of that place.
John Neal
Virginia
‘25 Roadster Pickup
Virginia
‘25 Roadster Pickup
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- Posts: 6815
- Joined: Fri Jan 04, 2019 10:51 am
- First Name: Richard
- Last Name: Eagle
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1909 TR 1914 TR 1915 Rd 1920 Spdstr 1922 Coupe 1925 Tudor
- Location: Idaho Falls, ID
- MTFCA Number: 1219
- Contact:
Re: For All Eternity
Punch him a couple of times for me too.
Part of your distress comes from trying to do it on a Roadster. A '17 to '22 Coupe is much easier through the suicide door. At least you can get both hands close to the problem.
Best Wishes,
Rich
Part of your distress comes from trying to do it on a Roadster. A '17 to '22 Coupe is much easier through the suicide door. At least you can get both hands close to the problem.
Best Wishes,
Rich
When did I do that?
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- Posts: 594
- Joined: Sat Jan 05, 2019 8:14 pm
- First Name: Dick
- Last Name: Lodge
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1924 Touring
- Location: St. Louis MO
- MTFCA Number: 19659
- Board Member Since: 1999
Re: For All Eternity
My understanding is that automotive engineers who are sent to the "other place" are condemned to spend eternity working on the cars that they designed in life.....
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- Posts: 4967
- Joined: Sat Jan 05, 2019 1:57 pm
- First Name: Mark
- Last Name: Gregush
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1925 cutdown PU, 1920 Dodge touring, 1948 F2 Ford flat head 6 pickup 3 speed
- Location: Portland Or
- MTFCA Number: 52564
- Board Member Since: 1999
Re: For All Eternity
I have had the same thoughts when installing the parking brake springs and brake clevis pins on Model A rear end! What were they thinking?
I know the voices aren't real but damn they have some good ideas!
1925 Cut down pickup
1920 Dodge touring
1948 Ford F2 pickup
1925 Cut down pickup
1920 Dodge touring
1948 Ford F2 pickup
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- Posts: 6496
- Joined: Fri Jan 04, 2019 9:37 pm
- First Name: Steve
- Last Name: Jelf
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1923 touring and a few projects
- Location: Parkerfield, Kansas
- MTFCA Number: 16175
- MTFCI Number: 14758
- Board Member Since: 2007
- Contact:
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- Posts: 4144
- Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2019 7:31 pm
- First Name: Dan
- Last Name: Hatch
- Location: Alabama
- MTFCA Number: 49974
Re: For All Eternity
Look for the guy that put the oil cooler on the 460 in motor homes. That looks like someone’s after thought. Short hose , bigger round that long with no space to install it.
Maybe same guy did bypass hose on 390 too.
Maybe same guy did bypass hose on 390 too.
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- Posts: 1559
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 11:16 am
- First Name: Don
- Last Name: Allen
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1924 Touring
- Location: Houston, TX
- MTFCA Number: 50001
Re: For All Eternity
He'll also be with the Honda guy who made it necessary to remove the right front suspension, front bumper and radiator on an Odyssey minivan in order to change an alternator.
It'll be a large room/lava pit/cauldron...there'll be a guy from Jaguar in there with several others I can think of.
It'll be a large room/lava pit/cauldron...there'll be a guy from Jaguar in there with several others I can think of.
1924 Touring
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- Posts: 490
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 11:14 am
- First Name: Henry
- Last Name: Petrino
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1918 TT
- Location: Modesto, CA
Re: For All Eternity
I had an Acura TL, 2004 if I remember correctly. A headlight bulb burned out. Per the manufacturers published instructions the only way to change that #@%&@ bulb was to first remove the entire front bumper cover, then dig your way in from there.
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- Posts: 4095
- Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2019 1:39 pm
- First Name: Norman
- Last Name: Kling
- Location: Alpine California
Re: For All Eternity
That is easy if you start the bolt nearest the transmission first and then slide on the bendix cover. The other screws are harder than that one. Another such problem is the nut on the crankcase ear which goes through the wood block and frame on the same side as the starter. I have found the easiest way for me is to use a box end wrench with masking tape around the socket and then press the nut in place. Then crawl under the car turn the bolt from the outside while manuvering the nut around until the thread starts to engage. Then the cotter pin must be inserted with a long nose pliers. I only bend the end of the cotter just enough to keep it from sliding out if the nut spins with the pin down. This too is harder on a car without the drivers door.
Norm
Norm
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- Posts: 168
- Joined: Mon Jan 28, 2019 4:49 pm
- First Name: Don
- Last Name: Kirtley
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 13 and 16 touring, 18 and 20 coup, 20 tudor
- Location: Devore, CA
- MTFCA Number: 23703
- MTFCI Number: 23153
- Board Member Since: 2009
Re: For All Eternity
I put Allen heads in mine. Use a ball end wrench. No problem. Don
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- Posts: 1069
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 12:18 pm
- First Name: John
- Last Name: Warren
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 14 Roadster, 25 Pickup , 26 Canadian Touring , and a 24-28 TA race car
- Location: Henderson, Nevada
Re: For All Eternity
My father always said that if the engineers had to change it before they could have their supper, like he had to, it would have been designed differently. A split screw driver ( Kline K23 ) makes those screws much easier, as long as the screws have a decent slot. Usually you will find these screwdrivers in the electrical tools.
24-28 TA race car, 26 Canadian touring, 25 Roadster pickup, 14 Roadster, and 11AB Maxwell runabout
Keep it simple and keep a good junk pile if you want to invent something
Keep it simple and keep a good junk pile if you want to invent something
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- Posts: 302
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 2:24 pm
- First Name: Bill
- Last Name: Robinson
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: '21 Depot Hack, '25 Touring Car, '26 Roadster Pickup, '27 Tudor, & another '27 Tudor
- Location: Salty Bottom, ALABAMA AL
- MTFCA Number: 22487
- MTFCI Number: 17887
- Board Member Since: 1999
- Contact:
Re: For All Eternity
Back around the turn of the century there was an active forum member named Reid Welch from somewhere in Florida. A thread was started regarding the pain of installing and removing the slotted bendix screws. Pictured below is Reid's answer. The picture is my donated screwdriver that I cut off and welded a short 1" piece of an allen wrench to the screwdeiver shaft. Once the driver is inserted into the allen screw it stays put and allows you to wiggle the screw through the shafts and align it with the threaded hole, horizontally. Overall length is very important. I have used the screwdriver many times over the years on my T's and helping many friends. It's still working now....and For All Eternity.
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- Posts: 3327
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 10:56 am
- First Name: Dan
- Last Name: Treace
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: '23 cutoff, '25 touring, '27 touring
- Location: North Central FL
- MTFCA Number: 4838
- MTFCI Number: 115
- Board Member Since: 2000
- Contact:
Re: For All Eternity
The good thing about design engineers mistakes, it make a nice business for making solutions and making money on inventions!
Period adv. for those pesky Bendix screws.
Choice tools in the T tool box, small screw holding screwdriver with release sleeve. Plus an old time one. The extra long single slot is used to finish the tightening, or for removal, as it reaches easy past the brake pedals and cams.
Period adv. for those pesky Bendix screws.
Choice tools in the T tool box, small screw holding screwdriver with release sleeve. Plus an old time one. The extra long single slot is used to finish the tightening, or for removal, as it reaches easy past the brake pedals and cams.
The best way is always the simplest. The attics of the world are cluttered up with complicated failures. Henry Ford
Don’t find fault, find a remedy; anybody can complain. Henry Ford
Don’t find fault, find a remedy; anybody can complain. Henry Ford
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- Posts: 4144
- Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2019 7:31 pm
- First Name: Dan
- Last Name: Hatch
- Location: Alabama
- MTFCA Number: 49974
Re: For All Eternity
Split screwdriver??
That is what we all called “Monday Morning Screwdriver “
If I have to explain, you won’t understand. Dan
That is what we all called “Monday Morning Screwdriver “
If I have to explain, you won’t understand. Dan
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- Posts: 979
- Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2019 5:42 pm
- First Name: Stan
- Last Name: Howe
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 2
- Location: Helena, MT
- MTFCA Number: 19133
- Board Member Since: 1999
Re: For All Eternity
They are 14-24 thread screws. Next time you are ordering something from McMaster Caar or MSC, order box of 14-24 FILLISTER head screws. Makes it a lot easier to keep them on the tip of the screw. Take a nice long screwdriver, grind the tip until it will just start in the slot, tap it in the slot with a lbbfh so it holds the screw on the tip and go to work. Makes a miserable job maybe not easy but not that bad. Cost you about 5 bucks for a box of 25. Makes it a lot easier to get them out, too.
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- Posts: 5259
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 7:21 pm
- First Name: Allan
- Last Name: Bennett
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1912 van, 1917 shooting brake, 1929 roadster buckboard, 1924 tourer, 1925 barn find buckboard, 1925 D &F wide body roadster, 1927LHD Tudor sedan.
- Location: Gawler, Australia
Re: For All Eternity
John, it's not the engineer's fault. Blame it on Henry for his contrary decision to make his T models Left Hand Drive. We have no problems where the wheel is on the right side
Allan from down under.
Allan from down under.
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- Posts: 279
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 1:58 pm
- First Name: Bill
- Last Name: Dizer
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1925 coupe, 1927 depot hack
- Location: Spencer, IN
- MTFCA Number: 28610
- MTFCA Life Member: YES
- Board Member Since: 2014
Re: For All Eternity
Post WW2, it's will it go down the assembly line, and will it make it out of warranty! After that you are on your own! Try an oil pan on a late 90's s-10 blazer, bravada, jimmy 4x4! Front axles, right side axle extension, front differential, oil cooler lines, flywheel cover, starter etal! Or Pontiac grand am water pump on the 4 cylinder engine on the rear below the exhaust manifold, run by the timing chain! Or another favorite, 86 up Ford Taurus heater core! Drain a/c, pull entire steering column down, loosen entire dash, remove heater box. 9 hrs or so book time, much much less after you have done some, and know the tricks!
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- Posts: 979
- Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2019 5:42 pm
- First Name: Stan
- Last Name: Howe
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 2
- Location: Helena, MT
- MTFCA Number: 19133
- Board Member Since: 1999
Re: For All Eternity
The two things that made me sell my 62 T bird convertible were 1. The windshield wiper motor is accessed through the radio speaker hole. It is recommended to REMOVE THE WINDSHIELD for better access. If I was ever going to do it again I would have to lose 50 lbs, take agility training for 6 months and then have knee pads that allowed me to access the wiper motor with one hand while turned away -- facing the rear of the car -- and taking the 5 nuts off that have to be removed to pull the motor up out of the speaker hole. I would remove the windshield and the hood or sell the car if I ever had to do it again.
2. Heater core. Instruction one: Remove the dash assembly from the car. It took me two days to get it out, replace the heater core and put the dash back in it. In about 1995 or so I was quoted $600 by a shop that worked on them. I would pay it in a heartbeat. A heartbeat!!!!! There is a panel that can't be removed -- since it is a unit body -- that runs from side to side and everything is accessed through the holes in that panel.
I did this about a month after I replaced the wiper motor.
Somebody in California bought it when I sold it at Barrett Jackson, I cashed the check and drove a 47 Chevy Fleetline sedan home from Arizona. I've only owned one other car I was happier to see gone than that T Bird. (A Subaru Outback) The top mechanism????? I was the world expert after three years with that thing.
2. Heater core. Instruction one: Remove the dash assembly from the car. It took me two days to get it out, replace the heater core and put the dash back in it. In about 1995 or so I was quoted $600 by a shop that worked on them. I would pay it in a heartbeat. A heartbeat!!!!! There is a panel that can't be removed -- since it is a unit body -- that runs from side to side and everything is accessed through the holes in that panel.
I did this about a month after I replaced the wiper motor.
Somebody in California bought it when I sold it at Barrett Jackson, I cashed the check and drove a 47 Chevy Fleetline sedan home from Arizona. I've only owned one other car I was happier to see gone than that T Bird. (A Subaru Outback) The top mechanism????? I was the world expert after three years with that thing.
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- Posts: 381
- Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2019 2:33 am
- First Name: Alan
- Last Name: Long
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1910 Canadian Touring Car and 1926 Australian built Utility
- Location: Western Australia
Re: For All Eternity
I agree with Allan from Gawler, never had an issue with Pedals or Linkage while working on the Starter! Our issues
are starter Buttons melting, and the steering column getting in the way of Timers, Generators and Fuel lines.
Even back in my days working at Borg Warner we had vast differences with our product from state to state.
Hilly NSW used to have Torque Converter failures and WA broken differential tubes.National meetings about issues
were very interesting. Alan in Western Australia
are starter Buttons melting, and the steering column getting in the way of Timers, Generators and Fuel lines.
Even back in my days working at Borg Warner we had vast differences with our product from state to state.
Hilly NSW used to have Torque Converter failures and WA broken differential tubes.National meetings about issues
were very interesting. Alan in Western Australia
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- Posts: 19
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 11:09 pm
- First Name: Vic
- Last Name: Patterson
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1920 Canadian Touring 1926 Canadian TT Grain truck
- Location: Grande Cache, Alberta, Canada.
Re: For All Eternity
Fancy screwdrivers! as a retired electrician we always just whittled a stick to hold and start the screw!
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- Posts: 5259
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 7:21 pm
- First Name: Allan
- Last Name: Bennett
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1912 van, 1917 shooting brake, 1929 roadster buckboard, 1924 tourer, 1925 barn find buckboard, 1925 D &F wide body roadster, 1927LHD Tudor sedan.
- Location: Gawler, Australia
Re: For All Eternity
My trick may work with the screwdriver you already have. Fit a short length of rubber fuel line over the end of the screwdriver. Plug the screw into the end of the fuel line to hold it in place and screw away as you like. Easy-peasy!
Allan from down under.
Allan from down under.
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- Posts: 20
- Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2019 2:15 pm
- First Name: Robert
- Last Name: Skingley
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1913 Runabout
- Location: Westland, Michigan
- MTFCI Number: 23002
Re: For All Eternity
The fact that these screws are #14-24 usually means they are the original ones and quite often the slot is pretty worn out. A tinkering tip I have used before is the toilet bowl wax ring I have on the work bench. Just put a wad of wax on the end of the screw and it will hold right on...Wax ring is great to lube the springs, threads, oil lamp locking slides, head light rims, wheel rims just use your imagination. Another positive is it is friendly with paint...every work bench needs one...Robert