MTFCA Forum

I can find no information on these. Bruce mentions them in his book, but only says where they are located. The current judging guidelines doesn't mention anything! How come? I have two early hot air pipes. One is the 1913 and earlier type that is crimped together. The other is what I believe came out in 1914 and is spotwelded, but nowhere near what the later ones look like. I was hoping Gail Rodda would have information, but I couldn't find any information there either! Here is my problem at the moment. Neither of my hot air pipes will fit in a Model S two screw, or the four ball. I'm talking about a very late 1913 engine with a 1914 engine number. However, they will both fit an N.H.

The only information I have, and it's because that is all that I have researched, is on the two styles that were used in 1912-1919. The earlier of the two types, the one with the pronounced double seam, began to be used about midway through the 1912 model year. That was briefly superseded by the "seamless" type in late January of 1913, but, interestingly, there was some kind of problem with tooling, resulting in problems with the new design, so the older large-double-seam type was resurrected until the issues were resolved, apparently early in the 1914 model year. I don't have the exact date for that.

I did a short pictorial regarding hot air pipes a while back here on the Forum beginning with the '12 "heavy" crimped pipe & ending with the "recessed" '25 - '27 style for the combination mixture & choke.

I always thought 12’s were cast iron.

Only until about February.

I bought this one to go on my 14 but haven’t installed it. It fits snug in an S but is a bit loose in an NH.

Cory: Please post a picture of your hot air pipe without the carburetor! I don't want to reduce the o.d. of the end of my hot air pipe only to find out I may have to bring it back someday. Of course, I could put an N.H. on the car, and be done with it!

Measure both the carburetor throat & your pipe Larry - I have a few early ones that I can measure to see if we can find one that will fit your application.

Here is the hot air pipe that is on my 1915.
I would like to find a cast one for my 1911.
: ^ )
Keith

Larry, here are a few more. The later one won’t slide in, but it might if I sanded the rust off some.

Corey - I believe the last pipe you've shown is a repro - I've yet to see an original with the "open" tab.

Steve, it could be. It was on a 1920 stationary engine I bought at Chickasha, had a Pat’s Pending Holley G and a riveted hub fan with only 2 blades.

I thing maybe I'll just put on an NH for now. Both of my hot air pipes are mint, and not easy to find!

Steve and Corey

The 'open tab' style clip on the hot air pipe is the one used '19-'23 prior to Ford making the later versions with the full circle clip for the manifold stud. Ford did recommend to use a washer on these to keep the ears from spreading.

News to me Mr Treace ! Can you substantiate that claim ?

I stand educated - my 1923 Ford Price List of Parts depicts an artist's rendition of the "open" tab - I don't have a 1922 to look at but prior parts lists, 1921, 1920 & back to my 1915 price list shows the "early" style stove. My 1925 list shows the "full circle" tab but it is the later style stove when Ford introduced the late style manifold clamps & perhaps the combination mixture/choke rod.

Bruces's C-D had this to state on the Hot air stoves, formed from stamped sheetmetal.

His dates are approx. The later one was changed in '25 for the new combination choke and carb adj. swivel rod and is recessed for that rod into 1926 until the Vaporizer came along and then the hot air pipe wasn't used on that setup.

Let me throw this Monkey Wrench into the mix.
I got this off of the forum some time back.
The only difference between the two curves is that one has the stovepipe and one does not.
I took mine off.
 

Steve,
I did a search on the Hot air pipes post that you did but could not find it. Could you post a link for it?
Thanks
Mike Bird

Bob,

I also found that my performance is better without the pipe. But, on cold mornings in the summer here in the south, with high humidity, after a highway run of about 45 minutes, my carburetor will freeze up, stopping the car. So I put the pipe back on. I found that I can move the pipe enough to clear the carburetor if I want to run without the pipe, but that the pipe remains on the engine so that I can hook it back up if needed by just moving it back into position.

Hi,

I realy like this air Pipe on my 1913-14 engine work realy well and look nice too.

I couldn't locate that thread myself, Mike - maybe someone with better computer skills might find it.

I have a considerable sized library of Model T literature - both original Ford & aftermarket - I'll research more on the hot air pipe subject.

I have several of those "accessory" aluminum pipes and several other styles that work with exhaust manifold heaters.

Is it this one?

http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/25 ... 1346928717

No Mark - I did a pictorial a while back - like within a year or so, I thought ?

I have bought a new repro hot air pipe of the 19 - 23 type but I have issues fitting it on the engine.

Can any kind soul with such version mounted on the car? Particular how it fit with the bolt that holds the clamp to hold the manifold.

Thanks in advance!

Picture should help you see how

Steve, Is this the post you were thinking about?
https://mtfca.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php? ... vel#p98904

Yes, yes it is - many thanks James !

dykker5502 wrote: ↑

Wed Sep 09, 2020 2:47 pm

I have bought a new repro hot air pipe of the 19 - 23 type but I have issues fitting it on the engine.

Can any kind soul with such version mounted on the car? Particular how it fit with the bolt that holds the clamp to hold the manifold.

Thanks in advance!

This is the repro Lang's hot air stove on my '27 touring. The photos may help you. The round hole in the upper back side is for the manifold clamp to fit into, and that far end of the clamp over the exhaust manifold, then the other end on the intake manifold. Place the clip open end over the stud, and you lock it with a washer and then the nut on the stud. The washer prevents the open clip from spreading and letting the stove get loose.

Notice mine is MMP'ed. 'Modified for More road Power' That is why the hole part is cutaway along with about 1/2 of the upper tube to allow fresh air provided by the radiator fan into the carb, so as to suck in less hot air in the stove from the exhaust manifold . But also provides some heated air to prevent icing on the lower end of the intake manifold which happens to me in this part of FL. Our humidity is always around 80-90% in the summer. As it type this now, its raining and 94% humidity.



The tangs on the stove over the exhaust manifold are trimmed away too, to get the stove close to the manifold for clearance of the later style carb adj. rod. The tangs don't hit the metal manifold to prevent squeaks , which are rampant every where else on my touring!

Thanks! It hot pipe is also modified for adaption I can see and that was what confused me with the one I have.

That hot air pipe that Mario posted is a NOS one I found at a swap meet in the late '90's. It is aluminum and I polished it, came out very nice. Dave