MTFCA Forum

Rear springs are all disassembled, wired brushed, rough areas sanded, and cleaned. Can of Spray slip plate will arrive tomorrow. I am only going to spray the surfaces that mate together. How much do I put on? One light coat? How long do I wait before assembly? A side note, when I disassembled the springs there was no trace of paint between them. Only a occasional run from the outside in from 105 years ago.

There was a discussion (started Sept ) about putting silicon sheets between the springs that led to methods of applying Slip Paint. Read the can and read the post and then do your own thing. https://mtfca.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php? ... ne#p117377

I used two moderate brushed coats of slip paint on mine. The time between coats was pretty short, so I figured I’d get a few on since they were dissembled anyway.

Brush method too, disposable gloves, and just brush on, it dries quickly. Prior to putting the stack together, like to use a waste rag and rub the just dried surface until a shine is made, that really brings out the slip and glide in the graphite

Doesn’t require a ton of over thinking. Just wait till it isnt wet. Remember the second you stack them it smears the slip paint all over and rubs it to metal in spots anyway. This is what I observed when I dissembled a spring I slip painted and didn’t drive on. Some spots were shinny metal and others slip paint was left intact. I pulled mine apart to modify further for a speedster/ hot rod application with reverse eyes and i re arched the entire spring.

After leafs are together and tight, using lacquer thinner, clean excess slip paint from all non-mating surfaces such as the sides, top and bottom of the assembled spring. When all excess slip paint is removed and exposed surfaces are clean of slip paint, prime with red oxide primer and paint with gloss black enamel. I would use paint on paint in a can instead Spray-on aerosol paint, as liquid paint is much more durable than aerosol rattle can paint. You can smoothly apply both primer and enamel with a good varnishing brush. A good durable Red oxide primer and gloss black enamel, such as is made by “Porter Paints” or “Sherwin Williams”, levels out very nicely, eliminating brush marks. Jim Patrick

I am making one of these today.
If I don’t have the right spring bolt, can I installed it thread up so it goes through the hole in the pad and frame?

Found a square head bolt and added some weld to the top a and ground to match. All assembled and painted

Update. Cleaned up the cross member last night. Only bits a pieces of the old leather spring pad left, just on passenger side. No wonder body always leaned to the left. Going to install new pad and spring assembly today.

Whatever you do or don't do, DO grind a slight taper on the under side of the end of the spring leaf above the lower one. It doesn't take much, but it will keep the upper leaf from wearing a "gouge " into the lower leaf, which can lead to a stress crack and a broken spring, and will help with the flexing of the whole spring, making for a bit of a better ride. If you look at some of the older springs, you will see what will happen. Seen it many times. Dave