MTFCA Forum

Hello, I recently aquired a 1917 Roadster with the front top bow broken off in the socket. what "fasteners" hold the wood bow in the socket and also what is best method to remove the wood ? Thank You

Hi Steve, thank U 4 Your reply...I have examined the socket , I can not find any rivet type fastener on the socket . again..thank U 4 Your reply

1917 roadsters and tourings have round top sockets.

After the wood bow is inserted into the socket, there is a single nail that goes through the socket and into the wood bow.

I have posted photos in this thread:

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=11380&p=85110&hilit ... ail#p85110

Note: on the roadster top bows I posted, the nails are on the top or front of the first two sockets and on the bottom or rear of the third socket.

However, on my dad's 1917 touring, the nails are on the outer sides of the sockets.

What Eric said. The oval wooden bows' ends are tapered to fit tightly into the tapered socket all by themselves, and the tack is intended to be a safety measure.

"Erik" not Eric. I apologize.

Many thank you 2 Mr. Jeff, Mr. Johnson and Mr. Anderson for all Your help...Your knowledge just made my project easier to deal with ! Would anybody happen to have a top bow that would fit on a 1917 roadster ? I am also looking for a complete top assembly to fit a 1913 touring. Thank You

sorry..Mr. Jelf...

sorry..Mr. Jelf...

You've got to forget the "Mr." stuff....those guys will get big heads and be impossible to deal with.

You can buy bent Oak bows from the vendors like Langs and Snyders for a reasonable cost. If you want a laminated bow (more $$) contact Jonathon Anderson <jpautowood@gmail.com>. I bought a complete set of bows for my '17 Touring from Jonathan and they are top quality. You'll need to use a spoke shave and sander to taper the ends to fit the sockets. Jonathan puts a pencil mark on them showing how far they need to go into the socket.

As to getting the old wood out....whatever works. I got a few to come out by taking the socket, turning it upside down and whacking the open end on a board or the like. I had a friend drill a hole in some with a long drill bit then glue a dowel into the hole - pulling it out when it dried. Use your imagination.

One suggestion, after cleaning out the old wood you might want to consider filling the section of the socket below the bow with pourable epoxy. It seals and strengthens the socket. You can drill and tap it for a machine screw to hold the little leather straps with the T head cotter pins.

Good luck!

BTW - which state are you in?

Often the tack/rivet deforms the socket and raises a pinchpoint into the wood. If you can't budge it I have resorted to the following on some well used sockets. I used a torch to heat socket enough to well char the timber within. Once it has been burnt, it is easier to work them loose and withdraw them. the heat also liberates some of the internal rust in the socket. This is something drastic if you have a nice set of sockets, but if needs be, .....

Hope this helps,
Allan from down under.

Tim, Steven Meudt is in Dodgeville, WI.

Keith

Thanks Guys...ok i'll drop the "Mr." part HAHA ...i got the sockets cleaned out as You suggested......i plan on doing the "go over" on the bows and top late winter ...i may be getting back to You then when SHTF !! LOL

Steve

I think everyone here knows Mr Jelf as Steve or Mr Jeff. He is use to being called Mr Jeff.