MTFCA Forum

Hello,

I drove the T to the barber today which was around a 8.5 mile round trip. A couple of things I noticed, I had to turn down the carb adjuster knob about a half a turn closed between when the engine was cold and when it was warm. I believe I’ve read before that’s normal. I had to do this because when I accelerated it would start to run rough as it accelerated... but it was smooth once I adjusted the mixture more lean.

Overall the trip went fine except I was surprised how two people turned left in front of me to the point I almost hit them. I thought it would be easier driving in the T with it being so different. I know I only have three trips in town so it’s hardly experience... but I feel like I’ve had people drive worse in front of me. I don’t know if that’s because I’m moving so slow or maybe I’m paranoid simply because I can’t brake like normal.

Lastly, I never had a boil over and the radiator didn’t even gurgle when I got home. But out of curiosity I checked the coolant temp when I got home. It was 217 degrees. I know I’ve heard folks say not to worry about it or even get rid of your Boyce motormeter because the car will tell you if it’s overheating or not. However, I’m a naturally curious person and will pay attention to these things. I’m guessing 217 is fine if it is chugging down the tracks not losing coolant?

The motometer I know isn’t exactly accurate and has a wide variance but it indicated at times it ran hotter than when I took the temp when I measured it when I got home. It was below the summer line and the open circle at 217. Sometimes it is in the middle of the circle when I’m working the engine harder.

Hopefully, after life returns back to normal I can get a Model T club together. For now, y’all are my club and who I ask these things.

Thank you for your time,
Darin

I think it is normal for the temp to rise when you first shut it down. No air moving and it takes several minutes for the block to cool down.

First of all...you are fine! If the coolant covers the core and doesn’t boil over...it’s even OK if it goes glub, glug, glug on shut down which you say it doesn’t.

I also agree the that open close thing on the carb even tho many say that they don’t have to HOWEVER you may be taking it too lean! Bring the car in from a run at dusk, open the hood, look at the exhaust...if it has any glow to it, too lean!! Open it a bit and the learn to use the pinkies on the throttle and spark for an accel.

One other thought. Buy a cheap meat thermometer, use a rag to take off the hot motometer, plop the meat thermometer in the hole...will still be more accurate and may give your jitters a few more degrees of comfort.

You did say coolant rather than water, yes?

FWIW, I have a son who is quesy about long trips in his WW2 jeep. I drop shipped him a bottle of red-line water wetter which at first he refused to use, then decided nothing to lose, then texted me his appreciation as to him it ran cooler on his next big run on a hot day. I usually don’t go snake oil solutions but sometimes it’s worth a try....lol

Good luck

I have a meat thermometer I’m carrying now to study the coolant temps out of curiosity. Yes, I have a 50/50 coolant/water mix. I have heard the glub glub sounds usually... and they slow... on prior trips. This one I didn’t and found the temp at 217.

I’ll look at the exhaust manifold thing to see if it’s too lean. Right now I have a Kingston L4 carb and I have to turn the adjustment knob about three full turns counter clockwise to get the engine started and keep it running. I know every carb is different but doesn’t that seem like a lot? I’m going to try and go to the swap meet in Virginia in October and look for a Holly NH carb, most likely. I’ve heard those are good solid model carbs.

Darin

I'm pretty sure that the T engine will gain at least a few degrees of coolant temperature upon shutdown. Although unlike modern thermostat controlled engines the convection in the T's cooling system will continue to operate, there is no airflow through the radiator to remove heat from the coolant. I remember reading some years back that modern engines actually gain heat for about 20 minutes after shutdown due to virtually no coolant flow. The OP either didn't say what the ambient temperature was, or I don't remember, but if it was a relatively cool day I'd be a little nervous about the 217 degree temperature. On the other hand, if it was a really hot day I wouldn't worry. Since I installed the new Berg's radiator, I have never seen the temperature in my '27 go over about 175.

Darin,

Sounds like you are fine.
If you are still curious though, be sure the kitchen thermometer is accurate.
I have a 1935 Ford V8 that uses thermostats so I've been checking them before installing for years.

Here is how I check my thermometer:
I used two NOS thermostats that are for my '35 Cabriolet, a 160 degree and 180 degree.
The thermostats opened at the proper temperature in a pan of water on the stove.
That puts me within a couple of degrees+/-.

Set the car up in your driveway with no tail wind.
Take off the radiator cap and drop the kitchen thermometer in the top tank.
Here is what I see on my '14, 4-ball Kingston, air pipe, coils on magneto, 50/50.

The fan is important when you are sitting still for an hour with the engine running
so you can't have a tailwind.

Any head wind will just drop the temperature. Almost still that day but not quite.

That’s good information.

To be clear, I treated my engine water jackets/etc with evaporust to clear out any rust and debris. Flushed it out well. And I have a brand new Brassworks flat tube radiator. I don’t know if that information matters; however, I would hope it means I have a very functional cooling system.

Darin

Re 3 turns for the Kingston L4. That is a bit much. Could just need to be cleaned or float level is to low in the bowl and needs to be reset. If the float is too low, the spray valve would need to be opened more to pull fuel up because of lower fuel level in the bowl. While there is a proper measurement, I just eye ball set mine level to the casting and seems to work fine.

Mark,

Thank you for the suggestion... I’ll check that out.

Darin