MTFCA Forum

My clutch pedal cam is worn way too much and I need to change it. It is a cast iron hogshead with starter. The 21 touring body just doesn’t have any room to work in and I don’t do well standing on my head. I was told I will sweat blood and throw out my back guaranteed if I will pull the hogshead in the car but it would be best if I pull the motor and do everything on a motor stand. Advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you. Frank

Frank ; Do it on a motor stand .!!!
You don't have to change the cams , but weld them so the play is away

Toon

The hogs head should come off. A new cam which attaches to the hogs head can be obtained from the suppliers. If necessary, the pedal can be built up by removing the pin and taking off the pedal from the shaft and weld in and grind to fit.
Norm

Would bending the pedal back a bit be a practical option?

You can do it easily enough if you pull the motor forward enough ahead of the firewall and remove the transmission cover from there. You also can do it in place fairly easy if you go under the car and remove all the nuts and bolts from there instead of trying to do it from the top. It’s harder to do that way. Or you can remove the firewall and that will give you good access. It’s happened more than a few times that it’s forgotten about after everything is put together and then find out it should have been done before the engine goes back in the car.
I did mine in the car BUT I took my time and learned a few tricks along the way.
Everyone has their own way to do this and whatever is good for them go for it.

Sorry for the confusion. I meant to say the clutch pedal cam. In a hurry and wife yelling she is in the car ready to go. Thank you Bryan for bringing it to my attention, especially while I was already a 125 miles from home and driving on the freeway in Phoenix.
All the replies seemed correct, thank you all for that. For either pedal it is difficult in the car but the cam for the clutch pedal is inside the hogshead and even harder to replace. With my bad back it seems easier to pull the motor and do all the necessary work on an engine stand. Luckily I have all the proper equipment. Thank you, Frank

Frank, a new bolt-in cam is a great reference point for welding up and grinding back the ramps on the pedal. Use it and some prussian blue to indicate the high spots which need dressing down. It is far easier to do this out of the car with the engine on a stand. I think it is a waste of time just replacing the ramp without addressing the wear on the pedal ramps.

Allan from down under.

With the clutch pedal, you won't need to do any welding on the pedal. The notch is attached to the end of the shaft inside the hogs head and the cam attached with a bolt inside the hogs head. Replace them both and it is also a good time to replace the shaft because the shaft does tend to get worn where it goes through the hogs head. Note, you still might need to do a little grinding on either the notch or the cam because you need just a little play when you push the pedal down. You want to have the pedal go about half way down before it starts to compress the band. That will put the car in neutral. Then as you continue to push must compress the band tightly by the time the pedal gets 1 1/2 inch above the floorboard. Bending the pedal arm only works if a bent arm is the cause of the problem. That point is abut half way down. The neutral must be free without either high or low engaged. The bolt on the clutch arm must also be adjusted to hold it in neutral when the pedal is halfway down . See attached

Norman is correct. On LHD cars, the two components can be bought separately. On our RHD cars the adjustment is internal and the pedal ramp needs to be built up. Sorry for the confusion.

Allan from down under.