Roadster differences 1915-1917
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Topic author - Posts: 2
- Joined: Thu Mar 14, 2019 1:07 pm
- First Name: melvyn
- Last Name: smith
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1915 Touring, 1918 Touring
- Location: Farmville, Va
Roadster differences 1915-1917
Just starting a roadster restore which supposedly is a 1915; however, motor is a 1917 - bodies appear similar, is there a difference in the body? Satisfied either way but trying to order top and vendors list different styles for these years
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- Joined: Mon Feb 04, 2019 10:25 pm
- First Name: Erik
- Last Name: Johnson
- Location: Minneapolis, MN
Re: Roadster differences 1915-1917
I have an unrestored 1917 roadster with a known history.
They're basically the same. However, there are some differences and if you posted pictures, we could tell you what you have.
For example, 1915 Fords have low armrests.
Early in the 1917 model year, a notch was put in the cowl above the coil box to accommodate easy removal of the radiator rod, which is mounted higher than the brass radiator rod.
1917 uses the same top irons as 1915-16. The difference is the rear curtain of the top. Very early 1917's had the tombstone window like 1915-16. Otherwise, it is three rectangular windows.
The body should have a tag or stamping in the wood (depending on the manufacturer) with a serial number and a date. This will tell if your body is a 1915, 16 or 17. For 1915, the tag or tag or stamp is typically on the seat frame, forward of the gas tank. For 1916, it may be on the seat frame or on the floor riser.
For 1917, the tag or stamp is typically on the passenger side floor riser, although I recently saw a very early 1917 (body dated July 1916) with the body numbers on the seat frame.
They're basically the same. However, there are some differences and if you posted pictures, we could tell you what you have.
For example, 1915 Fords have low armrests.
Early in the 1917 model year, a notch was put in the cowl above the coil box to accommodate easy removal of the radiator rod, which is mounted higher than the brass radiator rod.
1917 uses the same top irons as 1915-16. The difference is the rear curtain of the top. Very early 1917's had the tombstone window like 1915-16. Otherwise, it is three rectangular windows.
The body should have a tag or stamping in the wood (depending on the manufacturer) with a serial number and a date. This will tell if your body is a 1915, 16 or 17. For 1915, the tag or tag or stamp is typically on the seat frame, forward of the gas tank. For 1916, it may be on the seat frame or on the floor riser.
For 1917, the tag or stamp is typically on the passenger side floor riser, although I recently saw a very early 1917 (body dated July 1916) with the body numbers on the seat frame.
Last edited by Erik Johnson on Sat Oct 10, 2020 4:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Roadster differences 1915-1917
The first 3 photos show the cowl differences I think.
http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/29/23821.html
http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/29/23821.html
When did I do that?
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- First Name: Don
- Last Name: Kirtley
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Re: Roadster differences 1915-1917
Fenders and splash aprons?? Hood former. A lot of different features between a 15 And 17
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Topic author - Posts: 2
- Joined: Thu Mar 14, 2019 1:07 pm
- First Name: melvyn
- Last Name: smith
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1915 Touring, 1918 Touring
- Location: Farmville, Va
Re: Roadster differences 1915-1917
Followed up on points in the discussion and found that I must have a 1917 with 15 fenders (definitely 15 fenders) - the notch described to be in the 1917 cowl is there!!!! (curses) and measured the height of the arm rest to that in my 1918 touring and they match (more curses) - no body id available - so sad conclusion although will make a delightful roadster and might dress it up with brass radiator, etc anyway - assume some of the purists in the group will hate me but only they will know the difference
Further note - can salvage brass and parts from my 1915 touring which is in such poor shape that I planned too make into a pickup anyway - since the touring has a 1915 motor, will save all parts so that vehicles can be restored to original by someone else in the future
Thanks to you all for the immediate and very useful attention
Mel
Further note - can salvage brass and parts from my 1915 touring which is in such poor shape that I planned too make into a pickup anyway - since the touring has a 1915 motor, will save all parts so that vehicles can be restored to original by someone else in the future
Thanks to you all for the immediate and very useful attention
Mel
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Re: Roadster differences 1915-1917
Melvyn -- I have a '15-16 cowl without the notch if you need one. I intended to take it to Chickasha to sell, but you know how that turned out.
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Re: Roadster differences 1915-1917
According to McCalley's "From here to obscurity" book, the seat frame and door covering the gas tank were wood in 1915, possibly for the whole model year. They are wood on our 15 runabout, which is an early model year version.
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Re: Roadster differences 1915-1917
Does your-supposedly- 1917 runabout have 4 rivets holding the bottom windshield to the cowl lamp brackets ? I’ve seen that on an early unmolested ‘17 touring. The only way I would hate you would be if you Brass up the radiator and have 2 screws holding that lower windshield to the Cowl brackets. BTW, I have 2 nice ‘15-‘16 Cowl lamp brackets if you need ‘em.
I don’t know why I turned out this way. My parents were decent people
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- First Name: Erik
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Re: Roadster differences 1915-1917
Although there are many clues and features that can be used to differentiate between a 1915, 1916 and 1917 roadster body,I would definitely locate the body serial number that includes the date (month and year).
If it has a metal serial number plate nailed on the seat frame or floor riser, you should already be aware of its location.
If it is stamped in the wood of the seat frame or on the wood floor riser, you may not be aware of it, especially if it is on the floor riser. Sometimes, they aren't deep and, for various reasons - wear or they are are filled with dirt or paint - you may just have never noticed them on the floor riser.
Note that the body date is not the build date of the car. It will just let you know when the body was built. For example, my dad's 1917 touring has a July 1917 serial number, but the body has a June 1917 date. My May 1917 unrestored roadster has an August 1916 date on the body tag. Why it sat so long, who knows? But it does have only a single row of buttons on the original upholstery so it sat a long time before it was actually installed on a car.
If it has a metal serial number plate nailed on the seat frame or floor riser, you should already be aware of its location.
If it is stamped in the wood of the seat frame or on the wood floor riser, you may not be aware of it, especially if it is on the floor riser. Sometimes, they aren't deep and, for various reasons - wear or they are are filled with dirt or paint - you may just have never noticed them on the floor riser.
Note that the body date is not the build date of the car. It will just let you know when the body was built. For example, my dad's 1917 touring has a July 1917 serial number, but the body has a June 1917 date. My May 1917 unrestored roadster has an August 1916 date on the body tag. Why it sat so long, who knows? But it does have only a single row of buttons on the original upholstery so it sat a long time before it was actually installed on a car.
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Re: Roadster differences 1915-1917
The half moon over the coil box lid is the first thing I check to see if a car is a true 1915. There are a whole lot of other things too. Here in So. California there are far more fake 1915's than real ones, so it's good to check.