LOOK WHAT HAPPENED!

[Jonah D'Avella]

I started up my engine after installing the freeze plugs and the radiator and apparently installed the freeze plugs wrong. Do the freeze plugs go dome in or dome out?

[Bill Dizer]

Dome out, then you use a punch just slightly smaller and a hammer and tap the center flat. This expands the plug to seal it in place. Some put them in dry, some use a sealer like ultra black Permatex in a thin film on the edge. Some use a buffalo head nickle that they form a cup in, and then set like a steel plug.

[CudaMan]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rjmVdUmKuBg

[Dan B]

Jonah - Have you bought the rainbow covered MTFCA books yet?

[Steve Jelf]

The guy in the video is using steel plugs. Don't do that. They rust. Use brass or nickel. A bit of Ultra Black behind the plug doesn't hurt.

http://dauntlessgeezer.com/DG87.html

[jiminbartow]

Using the ball end of a ball pein hammer, make your own out of buffulo nickels. Really neat to use ones with the 1927 date of your T. Jim Patrick.

[jiminbartow]

Be really careful with that open fuel funnel setup you have there which is susceptible to sloshing and spilling over from typical T vibration or to a backfire through the carb. Even with a fully functional fuel tank, fires are prevelant in this area so close to the exhaust manifold. A lawn mower gas tank with a lid and copper tube would be a lot safer. In any case, please have a full ABC fire extinguisher right next to you when you fire up your T in case of a flare up. Make sure you know how to use it prior to cranking your T. Jim Patrick

[John Codman]

I would never argue with Steve Jelf., who is a master at the model T and far more knowledgeable then I; technically he is correct, but if you run a mixture of anti-freeze and water, or add a good anti-rust chemical to your coolant and change the coolant every few years, the steel "freeze" plugs will last about as long as you will. The steel plugs rust because of electrolysis which will not occur to any significant degree if you keep the coolant clean and protected.

[DanTreace]

I'll agree with Steve Jelf, the soft steel of reproduction Welch plugs are prone to early rust out from within, after just 6 years, the soft steel plugs developed leaks around the rim of the steel core plug. Was weeping, so instead of replacing, for then, added a smear of J-B Weld.

This held for a few more years, then pulled the motor for a cracked reverse drum and installed brass plugs. Brass won't ever corrode. Oh....the radiator in my T's get flushed every 2 years, and new coolant added, distilled water and green anti freeze

Typical weeping from rusting soft steel core plug.

Brass core plug, never rust.....

Original Ford better steel plug, they last for years, but even then rust from the inside. Pin hole in center made it easy to poke out this old plug

[OilyBill]

Something to keep in mind is that if you use 2 nickels, your car is worth 10 cents more than it was before!

[Art Wilson]

I like to thread and plug the core holes as was done on the 1913 and earlier blocks.
The existing core holes sometimes do not even need to be tap drilled as the holes are nearly the correct size for a 1/2 in pipe tap.
I start by getting the tap to go in a short distance. Then I install the pipe plug carefully and count the number of threads remaining out of the side of the block. This lets me know about how much farther I need to tap the hole to have the plug sit flush with the block surface. I sneak up on it to make sure I don't go too far.
The original style flush plugs with the square holes are available from the mid 60's Chevrolet parts sellers.
I never have had any leakage from the core plugs with that modification.
As one of my friends would say "Works real good and lasts a long time"