MTFCA Forum

There are wood blocks that support the bolts which mount the oil pan dogears to the frame. Should the heads of the horizontal bolts that secure the blocks in the frame channel, be counter sunk into the wood? Those bolt heads give me fits, by hanging up the dog ears when pulling it replacing the engine. There simply isn't enough room between the frame rails for the dogears, with those bolt heads sticking out. I had a devil of a time getting the motor out, and worse time putting it back in. I forgot that I was going to counter sink them before putting it together, then forgot.

The bolt goes through the hole in the dog ear. I have attached a drawing to show the way it is supposed to go together. Make sure that the bolt at the top of the dog ear is as tight as possible. The one going through horizontally should be just snug, too tight will cause cracking.
I hope this helps

Hmmm... That would make sense... But I don't recall the lower hole in the dogear for the horizontal bolt to go through. That would certainly make getting the engine in easier! Although getting the nut in the inside is another matter!

I'll have to check for the holes!

Thanks!

Unless you have a late 25-27 TT truck the stock frames and all stock pan ears have a hole. Use a thin box end wrench and some tape to hold the nut and pre mark the bolt to locate split pin hole up and down. Use long nose pliers to place split pin and bend just enought to hold pin. The picture doesn't show it but the wood block has a champer edge that goes down and to the frame side. This is for the fuel line on the carb side.

Not hard to install if you do as kmatt suggests. However on an open car earlier than 26 it is hard to do the one on the left because of the starter is in the way and there is no door. You pretty much need to do it from underneath because you cannot turn the head of the bolt while holding the nut from above.
Norm

Yes in a car it can be a two person job, one on the bolt from below and one on the nut from above.

ya and don't try with a box wrench on the starter side.

I suggest that most people will think it permissible to fit a stiff nut.
That saves eye, back and temper stresses.

For the top bolts , I use this already for a long time .
Toon

Kmatts way is how I do it so I guess the trick using the piece of tape to hold things in place isn’t a new way to do it. Using thin wrench’s is a help. I do have a long straight thin headed wrench I use that also works well. And by the way I used lock washers instead of the cotter pins.
This is one of those situations that I wonder how the Ford assembly line men did the job in the T’s heyday.
Either they used certain tools or had octopus hands!

John kuehn wrote: ↑

Mon Oct 12, 2020 9:58 am

Kmatts way is how I do it ... And by the way I used lock washers instead of the cotter pins.

Given that the horizontal bolt is intended to be snug but not tight, I wonder if there will be enough clamp force to enable the lock washer to hold sufficiently.

My preference here is a self-locking nut (which I’ve Justlearned is also called a ‘stiff nut’).

Found this in the "Ford Dealer & Service" Magazine for January, 1928. Mechanics, Old or new always find a way to invent the needed tools.

It was much easier in the factory, because those bolts were installed before the body was in place. A box wrench works well unless it is an offset box wrench.
Norm

The nut is castlated so I wedged a screwdriver into one of the slots of the nut and used that to position it. For the vertical bolt, I fed a thin wire down from the top of the frame and hooked the dental floss I had earlier tied to its cotter pin hole. Pulling the wire and, subsequently, the floss pulled the bolt through the hole. Holding the floss tight, I ran the floss through the hole in the nut to align it for tightening.

Thanks for all the tips. My problem was I put the wood blocks in the same way that I took the old ones out. I assumed they were put in correctly, and they were not. There is indeed a whole for the horizontal bolt in my dog ears, and most of you probably thought I was crazy for saying there wasn't period I stand corrected. But, I'm not going to take the engine out in order to put the bolts in correctly. However, I might be able to get one of those all in one tools that cut bolts and trim off flush, with a Long blade to cut off the bolt that I have in there, and then put in a new one properly. There would be no problem on the passenger side getting a nut in between the dog ear and the hogshead. I can't say quite the same on the other side, given the starter housing is in the way. But, I think I have a plan, now!

Thanks, all!

Turns out, it wasn't all that hard to resolve . Well... Would have been easier if I was 27, an not 67... But that's another story. I removed the top bolts, and removed the nuts from the horizontals that were pit in wrong. Then took an air chisel and cut and knocked out the wood blocks, then removed the 2 bolts and clamp over the nose. I was able to hack the engine up just enough to barely get the horizontal bolts out. Set the engine back down, put the top dogear bolts and nuts in, cut new oak blocks for the frame, and bolted them in. I didn't have too much problem getting the nuts on. Cotter pins were another story! Especially the driver's side one! Yeah... I used longer bolts for the top bolts, as the short ones didn't have cotter pins.

I'm sure you are sick of stuffing with this but a spring washer would be more effective in preventing the nut from coming loose on those over long top bolts as the cotter pins are supposed to go through and lock in the castle nut.

Kerry...
Yep... I'll go through my extras... I'm sure I have a spare in mt non-T stuff.

Thanks!

Sounds like you will be running around the north woods soon Dennis? OCF will be here before we know it.

Hi Dallas .... You know it!! Lol! It's been a long summer, without the T! I sure hope I haven't done any updates and repairs that will necessitate taking it back apart!

Hope to see you soon, with that truck or RPU of yours!!!

Place the vertical bolts first and tighten. Then install the wood blocks. Horizontal bolt goes in from outside the frame, so no need to counter sink into the wood. Tape castle nut in place in wrench and have assistant turn bolt while you hold wrench. Then I wish you the best of luck getting the cotter pin in. I ended up getting a longer bolt with a washer before I inserted it into the frame and block so I could install the cotter pin.