MTFCA Forum

This is very unusual crank (got it from Stan Howe). Decided I should make some progress. The cam of course is unique (320 lift and 215 degrees duration). I just realized that the rods I planned to use won’t fit so I am ordering some specials from Crower. Cylinders for bored and valves are done.
Next “tricky part” is the oil lines (pressure oiled of course)
Once I have the rods, then off to the balance guy!!

That's just so COOL!!!!!

Oh, I know how long projects like this take, I just hope it doesn't take to long to actually hear it.
Nice work Les, I wouldn't expect anything less from you.

What is that Crankshaft from???!!!!
My guess is was made by the Nev-R- Break company

Tim

Tim
My guess is it is made from a BIG chunk of round bar on a big engine lathe!! I used to have compressor crankshafts made that way (and a couple of antique car cranks too). No CNC required!

The old 1,3,2,4 firing order! Unique sound.

I sold a Winfield alum flat head years ago. One of a few recast. I forget who did them. I regret that decision.

Very cool Les! That crank and cam should solve most of the inherent Siamese port issues, but was said to shake a fella clear out of the car! If you ask me... it’s worth it!!! I’m curious to hear if it was the primitive balance techniques of the day... or the crank stiffness... or the firing order that caused the vibration issues?

Hope to see more of this build!

What does it weigh? (the crank)

Jeffery
Well it weighs a LOT!!
I’ll try to weigh it sometime (probably part of the balancing). Fortunately the balance guy I’m going to use is pretty smart!!
I wonder about the comments about the sound. Personally I don’t expect anything unusual!

I was in charge of power at the LA Auto show for a few years. I was walking some VIPs around when I stumbled onto the restored car at the show. I stared at that thing for 15 minutes taking pictures, and ignored my guests. LOL Quite the deal. I had no idea that thing made it back together.

You have quite the legend going on there, and a lot more work ahead.

Les, are you going to drill the main caps to bring oil to the crank? I have a rare set of main caps that were cast or forged for a stock T crank that have a flat boss (where the numbers are cast on your caps) and the flat bosses are drilled and tapped for 1/8" fittings for oil lines.

Les, are you going to drill the main caps to bring oil to the crank? I have a rare set of main caps that were cast or forged for a stock T crank that have a flat boss (where the numbers are cast on your caps) and the flat bosses are drilled and tapped for 1/8" fittings for oil lines.

Terry
I have always connected them to the block side of the bearing using the Ford supplied oil holes. I tap them and plug them prior to babbiting. After line boring and then grooving the babbit to line up with the crank drilled holes, I install tube fittings and run the oil lines roughly where the original T oil line was.

Les, what was the problem with the Ford rods?

The crank is T stroke but will A diameter journal that is narrower. I was planning to use a set of Townsend aluminum rod castings in conjunction with Scat stroker rod bearings , but the shells are too wide!! So at 71 years and with lots of projects on the go I will just buy a set of custom rods!!

TonyB wrote: ↑

Wed Oct 28, 2020 11:21 pm

Les, what was the problem with the Ford rods?

Oh, let me count the reasons not to use Model A rods...

Different lengths
Different weights
Stretched/stripped threads
Chisel marked in a high stress zones
Mating surfaces not flat
Need to be shortened

I used A rods in my last A crank motor (before SKAT was producing), and I must have 100 hours in the set. Mill out the webs, cut em in half, make boxing plates, mill the perimeter to remove all the stress risers, balance all the pieces, weld em all up, babbit, and finish bore to size. This is when I find out that the parting lines are not always in the center of the rod bores... melt out the babbit, remachine the parting lines to a common length, remachine the rod bores to center about the parting line, rebabbit and machine to fit!

$550 a set sounds like a great deal to me!!!

Les, did you do the ports similar to what Mr. Winfield did? I think we'd all like to see the rest of the story, if and when you have time. Thank you, Dave in Bellingham

Dave
I have not done anything to the ports yet. Still working on the “rotating group”. I anticipate opening up the intake ports to about 1”x2”. With modest valves but a fairly radical camshaft I doubt there will be much advantage in going bigger. I don’t remember ever seeing any pictures of the Winfield version.

One of the things I am working on is installing a flathead V8 oil pump on the back of the camshaft

Here ya go Les...

https://www.nwvs.org/Technical/2104EdWinfield.pdf

Very interesting story Kevin, Thanks for posting!!

Les, I have a few more. Took me hours to dig these up.

Thank you, Big2Bird, I had not seen these pictures. Where is this car now? From what I've read, it must be pretty impressive, even today. I, for one, am waiting to see the results of Mr.Shubert's work. Thank you, Dave in Bellingham

Dave Sullivan wrote: ↑

Thu Nov 05, 2020 10:50 am

Thank you, Big2Bird, I had not seen these pictures. Where is this car now?

I don't have a clue.

Some very interesting pictures!!
I guess that I’m not motivated to the same extent, so I won’t be attempting to duplicate the camshaft pictured.
The crank pictured is quite helpful though and mine will ultimately bear a resemblance. We are attempting to solve as much of the potential vibration issues as possible.
I may just create a real “sleeper”!!
And I will throw this out there, if you want to own it you can!! Currently I have 6 T engine projects and 4 other antique engines. WAY too many for me!!