MTFCA Forum

Had engine and trans out of 1923 touring to install new bands and hog head gasket , will it go back in with 3 pedals and starter motor fitted ? Thanks

Sure - be much easier with the steering column out of the way !

Thanks , I have the steering volume removed !

Are you going to install the engine in the frame and roll the frame under the suspended body, or install the motor onto the frame with the body already mounted on the frame? I assume the latter, in which case, disconnect the body and all fuel and steering column connections from the frame and raise the body enough to clear the pedals by putting wooden blocks on top of the frame and under the body on each side, tilting the body back until it clears the pedals and hogshead. Jim Patrick

I always remove the firewall on my 1914 and 1911...I thought it was impossible removing the engine without removing the Firewall as well. Is it possible doing this procedure without removing firewall? Maybe it is a stupid question I'm asking for myself as well. Anyone have tips to share ? I'm always ready to learn something new.

Was hoping to install it with the body still in place

I don’t think the firewall is removable. You might be able to do it with the body in place by loosening the pedals and wiring them down, but the hogshead hump will still need to be cleared. If you have a engine hoist, you may be able to tilt the rear of the engine down with the nose up and carefully inch it in place under the firewall with the pan supports sitting on the frame and sliding rearwards. I have posted a picture of a lifting eye (sold by Snyder’s) that screws into the spark plug hole for lifting and tilting the engine as I described. I’m pretty sure the radiator will need to be removed for this. I believe you said the steering column is out, which is necessary. Good luck. Jim Patrick

You can leave the bands loose enough to tie them down to gain clearance for the firewall but as Steve J. stated, you do need to tip up the engine to maneuver it under the firewall - no need to lift the body !

Hi Mark,

Apologies, the way I wrote my comments it could be interpreted you asking
stupid question. It is not the case, your question is pretty good for that
reason I said maybe I'm asking stupid question or doing something it is not
necessary when I removed all the time my firewall as well when I removing
the engine.

Sorry for any confusion I may did it was not bad intends.

Sincerely,

Mario

If you don’t have an engine hoist or eye lift, you can get a couple of strong friends to help you install the engine onto the frame. Lower the engine in place as far back as it will go against the firewall (if painted, you might want to protect the frame with strips of metal flashing). Using the swivel points of the pan supports tilt the engine nose up as much as necessary for the pedals and hogshead hump to clear the firewall while sliding the engine rearward until the pan holes line up. Jim Patrick

Thanks all for advice , will give it a go this weekend hopefully !

with an engine hoist and a helper it is easy (enough) to do without removing the body or the firewall.

A precaution to watch for is the emergency brake linkage that might get in the way as you push the engine back. If you see that the linkage will interfere with the engine as you tilt the rear up into place when it clears the firewall, you may need to remove the linkage and move it back out of the way until the engine is in. Others may want to chime in and say whether this is a problem or not. Jim Patrick

jiminbartow wrote: ↑

Wed Oct 28, 2020 2:09 pm

Are you going to install the engine in the frame and roll the frame under the suspended body, or install the motor onto the frame with the body already mounted on the frame? I assume the latter, in which case, disconnect the body and all fuel and steering column connections from the frame and raise the body enough to clear the pedals by putting wooden blocks on top of the frame and under the body on each side, tilting the body back until it clears the pedals and hogshead. Jim Patrick

Exactly! I used 2 lifting eyes in the water outlet. A little turn and a twist and it will go right in. I had to lift the body to clear the rear engine mounts
on a '15. Only took about 2 " under the front body mount's. I only removed the front two pairs of mounts and loosened the last two. I doubted but was reassured by some character in St Joseph Mn. 2 people would make it easier but I got to do it a couple times in a month
and a half! Lining up the drive shaft can be a bit of a trick but a few trips under the car can get it done! '26/27 hogs head with starter.

Model T’s from 17-25 have a removable firewall. When your pulling the engine it does make it easier when the firewall and steering column is removed. You don’t have to raise the body on the cars I have. I’ve removed and reinstalled the engines with and without the firewall in my 24 Coupe, 1919 Roadster and 21 Touring. But I do have to say removing the firewall makes it much easier when your working by yourself.

Easy one person with a good lift, and plug hole eyes positioned for max tilt. Clears firewall.


Pedals behind firewall:


Pedals now clear:

with an engine hoist and a helper it is easy (enough) to do without removing the body or the firewall.

Helper? What is that?
Note the steering wheel back against the seat.

On my 14 Touring I can remove and replace the motor without removing the steering column but I have to leave the starter off. It’s tight but I’ve done it a couple of times. I use a lifting eye in #4 for the vertical lift and then switch to one in #1 for the vertical lift.
I also helped a friend within the last month on his 15 also using this technique.
I find it easier to remove and replace the starter rather than the steering column. I suppose it’s a matter of personal preference