MTFCA Forum

Last I heard, Fun Projects has still not rereleased their VRs for sale. I currently have a 6v system but would the following be an alternative, though obviously a non-stock appearance, for someone with a 6v system? A temporary alternative until Fun Project VRs are once again in stock.

https://www.steinertractor.com/ABC153-6 ... -Regulator

Electrical is not my thing so I don’t know how to judge this product as acceptable or not. If it isn’t, anyone have some alternatives?

Darin

The description says for use with two brush generators only, so I would say not for model T 3-brush generator.

You could use it, but would require rewiring the generator.
Just get the diode type that fits your ground. The suppliers all carry them and that would be my choice over the current original style.

Mark, is overcharging the battery a concern with a diode?

Darin

James, I can’t believe I missed the two brush detail... it’s only in bold. smh

Darin Hull wrote: ↑

Fri Oct 30, 2020 10:06 pm

Mark, is overcharging the battery a concern with a diode?

Yes. You still have to choose a charging level with the 3rd brush.

Can either of these be used with/without a cut-out. Located at the battery.
Caution some vintage motorcycles are positive ground - this is a negative ground no info on 3-brush but some cycles were
https://www.ebay.com/itm/SOLID-STATE-6- ... 3445642197 Can these be used either as a voltage regulator for the battery OR to provide 12volt output - headlights USB charger
https://www.banggood.com/Geekcreit-DC-6 ... rehouse=CN

The three-brush generator on the Model T (and Model A) will work fine at either 12V or 6V. In standard form you need to use a cutout (mechanical or solid state) and manually adjust the current - there is plenty of good information on this site how to do that.

Better still you can use a voltage regulator, however it's very important to note that it needs to be what's known as a shunt regulator (i.e. it works across the generator output - not in series with it). In fact if you ever want to stop your generator charging you should short it out (directly at the generator output and before the cutout) rather than disconnect it as that will also cause damage.

Most solid state or mechanical regulators designed for cars/bikes are the series type and will not work with the Model T. If you use a series regulator on you standard T, or A, then likely as not you'll damage the generator. From a brief glance, Frank, I think the ones you show are series regulators, sorry.

I'm not sure about the 'Fun Projects' regulators, I've never seen one, but if they're a shunt regulator complete with integral cutout (or utilise the existing cutout) they should be ok - as should any other shunt regulator+cutout capable of handling the current.

FWIW I did design a suitable shunt regulator using a TL494 and a handful of components, and may have some time to put that up here at the end or the year, in case anyone's interested in rolling their own. The beauty about this is that many people may have most of the necessary components already, but that's a matter for a future and different thread.

I've been looking at regulator/rectifiers as an alternative as well. Found some three wire units and a couple of two wire units. Regulator rectifiers are pretty common in some motorcycles and lots of outboards. Basically, they allow voltage to charge the battery and when that requirement has been reached, they shunt excess voltage to ground. Lots of 12 volt units out there, but I am still searching for the correct 6 volt unit for my purposes. You would still have to set the third brush for your desired output.

Anyone hear any news from Birdhaven if and when they will have the Fun Projects line of regulators back up and available?

Darin Hull wrote: ↑

Fri Oct 30, 2020 10:06 pm

Mark, is overcharging the battery a concern with a diode?

Darin

It's not concern if you set your generator output correctly. I set mine to put out about 8 amps. I have never had a battery or generator issue at that setting.

Luke wrote: ↑

Sat Oct 31, 2020 5:20 am

Most solid state or mechanical regulators designed for cars/bikes are the series type and will not work with the Model T. If you use a series regulator on you standard T, or A, then likely as not you'll damage the generator. From a brief glance, Frank, I think the ones you show are series regulators, sorry.

Question then can the exposed electronics be adapted to work properly - it costs $10 with $1. 50 shipping. There are many similar but this had voltage & amperage in the range.
Found this on the web https://1925modeltford.wordpress.com/20 ... regulator/

There is some interesting information here:

https://www.cool386.com/regulator/regulator.html

https://www.cool386.com/battery/battery.html

John E. Guitar wrote: ↑

Sat Oct 31, 2020 7:50 pm

There is some interesting information here:
https://www.cool386.com/regulator/regulator.html
https://www.cool386.com/battery/battery.html

Thanks for the links - I had saved the first but couldn't find it. The second makes as Arty Johnson on Laugh-In "Very Interesting" reading first indeed,
SG3524N $0.57 ea. https://www.digikey.com/en/products/det ... gKVmfD_BwE
So for the electronically minded - is it lieu of stuffing this to fit in the cut-out cup; could the existing cut-out be left in place and this circuitry put in a black box and connected between the cut-out and the ammeter Or even at the battery connection?
The components are inexpensive - the labor is where the cost is.

From the cited article:
"IC not SG3524. Subsequent experimentation to reconstruct the regulator on a breadboard revealed that unfortunately the IC is not an SG3524. Trying an SG3524 in the actual FP voltage regulator was not successful either"

fwiw, jb

TRDxB2 wrote: ↑

Sat Oct 31, 2020 1:32 pm

...
Question then can the exposed electronics be adapted to work properly - it costs $10 with $1. 50 shipping.
...

Frank,

I couldn't see any schematic with that link, but from what I could tell from the photograph the high-current components looked as if they may well be wired as a you would expect a shunt regulator to be.

It'd be interesting to know what the IC was* but if it were the SG3524 John E and Jim mention then the cct is probably a similar design to the one I've come up with using a TL494 (they're quite similar), so I'd expect it to work fine. At the end of the day they're just a switching regulator, which have long become a very common thing.

In terms of your other question regarding use of the existing cutout. If you were to source all components new (or were very good at removing components from old boards) then I see no reason why not - at least as far as the carapace/chassis is concerned.

You would need to remove whatever mechanical components there were inside and fit the requisite electronics. It may be possible to also utilise an existing diode from a solid-state cutout, but as I've never seen one I couldn't be certain of that (IMV you'd want to use a schottky diode). Similarly to the photograph you've shown you'd try and utilise the chassis as a heatsink for the high-current devices.

*UPDATE - I had another quick look at the link (to see if there was a schematic mentioned) and scrolled down to discover a Q&A I'd not seen previously. That seems to confirm it's the SG device, so my comments stand.