MTFCA Forum

Why I use Schrader 888 valve stems instead of 777's. They are 1/4" shorter, and do the same job, with a few threads to spare. The main reason in weight. They work exactly the same with a 30X3 or 30X3 1/2.

If I had some 888 stems, I would certainly use them, especially when everybody else is passing up 888 stems to find 777 stems.

I shudder to think how many original stems were just thrown away with their used-up tubes over the years. I wonder if new tubes back then came with bridge washers and nuts, because they seem to also be in short supply. People saved the dust covers and rim nuts to use on the new tube, so now we're in a position where there are more dust covers and rim nuts around than the stems themselves.

Just in case a visual is needed.

Hmmmm..... but then it’s not “original” What’s the definition of hypocrite ?

Steve- the stem has no effect on the Cover as it threads onto the rim nut, not the stem.

Dan

...the stem has no effect on the Cover as it threads onto the rim nut, not the stem.

Depends on the year and the stem.

That's true on this nickel era stem.

But this brass era repop screws directly onto the stem. That may be due to the stems and covers sold by parts dealers today being the larger size that was used on non-Ford cars.

Steve, you must have been posting when I was weighing. The difference I found was just 4g. Then I weighed two bridge washers. One with the pressed in sealing ridge was 10g. A second one having a separate brass sealing ring affixed was 14g, so there goes the difference. Even if the two heavier components are combined the difference is a paltry .28 of one ounce. They might have worried about that on Donald Campbell's world record car at Lake Eyre in 1964, but I figure it is inconsequential on a T. It does make collecting either stems to make a set a lot easier.

Allan from down under.

Dan, I have the separate nut and screw-on dust cap on the spare rim/tyre on Henrietta. The nut has nothing to tighten against on a bare stem,and when the dust cap won't let go on the nut, I do have to wind the whole lot off to check the tyre pressure, and on a spare that means even longer trip.
That's another reason why I much prefer the Dill caps with the sliding thread and the valve tool on top.

Allan from down under.

Why don't Coker and Lucas and others have the correct hardware made for our tubes? I would think they could afford it if they wanted to? There is a company called A&L Model A parts that had duplicate valve stems made, and they did a super job too, and they aren't even in the tire business!

Why don't Coker and Lucas and others have the correct hardware made for our tubes?

Probably because the 724/725 size can be used on many makes, Ford included, even though the 777 size would be correct for Ford. One size fits all is the cheaper approach. Or maybe the folks making the hardware (or having it made) are unaware of the difference.

When I see a post titled "Schrader valve stems" I perk up.
Just need 2 more stems and not being a purest 888 valves will do just fine. Anyone willing to part with two?

The valve stems seem to be a simple item to make. I know that repops are available for antique motorcycles. These are dummys that screw onto the threaded metal valve stems on modern tubes. This shouldn't be too difficult for someone with a lathe.

Larry, you hit the nail on the head when you said, "if they wanted to". The same goes for the quality of the tyres and tubes they foist upon us. The one good thing from that is they have created a situation which has led to Blockley tyres seeking to fill the vacuum with something of merchantable quality. Good on them!

Allan from down under.

Everyone asks why someone does not make this and that part. When I made the straight knurled early rim nuts for Larry last year (more on a favor/challenge basis for us) and I added up all my time and material, programming time etc, I tried to set a reasonable price for them and struggled because I realized I would probably never even break even on them at $20 each. These were not made in my garage on a $300 75 year old bench lathe one at a time. Everyone needs to understand that it comes down to simple economics unless you happen across someone like me that does this 90% for the love of the hobby and 10% to get rich.

Not complaining at all here just making sure we don't loose sight of the fact that all of us are very fortunate to be able to get parts at all.

A "normal" business needs for parts to pencil out with a profit for it to happen, and even then, its a slow road to cover upfront costs.
Dan

Here, here Dan. You are one of our T treasures and there are a lot of your gears meshing in Ohio ! The only brand anybody I know will use.

Probably just like the poorly made and worthless needles and seats for NH carburetors made a few years ago that were form cut instead of ground.
Higher profit for the maker. No concern about what the quality was.

Just in case some crazy person wants to attempt fabricating a batch of Schrader 777 size stems, page 4 of this document has the dimensions. One issue I see is that they can't just be turned on a lathe, they require two sizes of external threads plus one size of internal threads to accept the valve core.
And, the flats on the large threaded section need to be milled so that the bridge washer can slip on. I measured an original 777 stem and the thickness across the flats varied between 0.335 and 0.337 inches.

If you are using the correct rim nut for a 777 or an 888 Steve, the number of turns to put the dust cap on is exactly the same!

What Dan M. said.