muffler s - revisit...

Discuss all things Model T related.
Forum rules
If you need help logging in, or have question about how something works, use the Support forum located here Support Forum
Complete set of Forum Rules Forum Rules

Topic author
dhosh
Posts: 304
Joined: Sun Mar 03, 2019 10:13 pm
First Name: Dennis
Last Name: Hoshield
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: '24 RPU (Raodster converted to Pickup)
Location: Petoskey, MI
MTFCA Number: 24305
Board Member Since: 2015
Contact:

muffler s - revisit...

Post by dhosh » Sun Nov 01, 2020 6:17 pm

I know mufflers have been kicked around here, quite a bit... At least in the past... My question is between two specific ones.... A stanless modern one (also have it's matching stainless drop pipe Frome the manifold to the muffler). I'm wondering if the cast iron ended ones, might be quieter than a my stainless one? Likely not much to know, until I purchase a cast ended one and try myself, I suspect.

For purposes if this discussion, I'm not much interested in the tractor, glass pack, or Farm and Fleet variants.

Thanks,

Dennis
'24 RPU
Petoskey, Mi


blgitn
Posts: 147
Joined: Mon Jan 21, 2019 10:36 pm
First Name: Roger
Last Name: Harmon
Location: West Point, VA
MTFCA Number: 16412
Board Member Since: 2007

Re: muffler s - revisit...

Post by blgitn » Sat Nov 07, 2020 7:21 am

Dennis,

My experience is that the style where the exhaust pipe goes through the muffler to the aft end is slightly quieter than the new style replacements, where the pipe stops at the forward end.

Both those styles, with pressed steel ends, are prone to unexpected disassembly underway if you have a backfire. Before I replaced my ignition switch I got pretty good at putting them back together.

Once I got a modern compact car muffler from my local parts store and installed it with an adapter and a short tailpipe. It was the quietest and didn't come apart with a backfire. It was still on my RPU I when I sold it. I'm sorry I didn't write down the part number.

I am about to install a dual exhaust manifold. I'm interested in the glasspack style from tractor supply mentioned here recently. I've been searching for the post, unsuccessfully.

R/ Roger.

User avatar

Humblej
Posts: 1707
Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 12:23 pm
First Name: Jeff
Last Name: Humble
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926 Canadian built coupe, 1924 TT C-cab, survivor 1924 roadster
Location: Charlevoix, Mi
MTFCA Number: 28034
Board Member Since: 2006

Re: muffler s - revisit...

Post by Humblej » Sat Nov 07, 2020 7:45 am

The repro original style steel end mufflers and exhaust pipes are fine. I welded the steel ends to the outermost muffler tube to keep from having to reassemble them after a backfire. All gets held on by the manifold nut, exhaust pipe clamp at the front of the muffler, and one bolt on the muffler ear to the frame, no additional hangers or clamps needed. The inner muffler tube can twist in the front muffler end and bolts to the rear center of the muffler, this allows for frame twisting even with the manifold packing nut and the exhaust pipe firmly fastened to the front of the muffler. This arrangement, which is as close to how it was done in the factory, has lasted me over 15 years and counting. The only difference between the modern repro stamped end steel mufflers and the original is the original exhaust pipe went all the way thru the muffler and bolted to the back center of the rear stamped steel end. But since they dont come that way now, you fasten the repro exhaust pipe to the short stub pipe sticking out of the front of the repro muffler. If you do not have a way of brazing the muffler together, bring it over and I will do it for you.

User avatar

Mark Gregush
Posts: 4962
Joined: Sat Jan 05, 2019 1:57 pm
First Name: Mark
Last Name: Gregush
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1925 cutdown PU, 1920 Dodge touring, 1948 F2 Ford flat head 6 pickup 3 speed
Location: Portland Or
MTFCA Number: 52564
Board Member Since: 1999

Re: muffler s - revisit...

Post by Mark Gregush » Sat Nov 07, 2020 12:13 pm

If not done so already on the one you have, at least tack weld along the outer shell seam as was done at the factory that was spot welded.
I know the voices aren't real but damn they have some good ideas! :shock:

1925 Cut down pickup
1920 Dodge touring
1948 Ford F2 pickup


Topic author
dhosh
Posts: 304
Joined: Sun Mar 03, 2019 10:13 pm
First Name: Dennis
Last Name: Hoshield
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: '24 RPU (Raodster converted to Pickup)
Location: Petoskey, MI
MTFCA Number: 24305
Board Member Since: 2015
Contact:

Re: muffler s - revisit...

Post by dhosh » Sat Nov 07, 2020 10:02 pm

Thanks, all!!
I just got my engine back from quick transmission run-through to fix my tight bushing tolerances. When I get it back in, I'll put my stainless repro back on, until I find another cast iron end set. The one in classifieds appears sold.

Thanks Jeff! I sold my gas torch setup, when I moved back to Petoskey. I have a map gas torch, but haven't tried brazing with it, yet!

Thanks!!
'24 RPU
Petoskey, Mi

User avatar

Tim Rogers
Posts: 387
Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 11:04 am
First Name: Tim
Last Name: Rogers
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1925 Coupe & 1923 Runabout
Location: South of the Adirondacks
Board Member Since: 2013

Re: muffler s - revisit...

Post by Tim Rogers » Sun Nov 08, 2020 7:48 am

In all the years I have owned and driven Model Ts I have never had one backfire- what am I doing wrong?
<o><o><o><o> Tim Rogers - South of the Adirondacks - Forum member since 2013 <o><o><o><o>

Post Reply Previous topicNext topic