1926-27 Engine Color

[ModelTWoods]

In both of the books the late, great Bruce McCalley had a hand in writing, when talking about 1926-27 engine block color, he stated "that the generally accepted "pitch" has been that the engines on the 1926 and 1927 cars were painted green. In our research at the Ford Archives, and after examining a good many original cars, we have yet to prove this is true The only reference to engine paint that we have found was in the engine number record books where on July 27,1926, a note was entered which read, "Began painting engines in Pyroxlin." Drake green was specified. Whether all engines were black, unpainted, or green cannot be determined with certainty. We have all seen engines in black, and also unpainted but have yet to see a green one that seemed "original". Yet it is quite possible that Drake green was used on at least some engines after mid-1926."

Also, the books state that some, but not all 1926 production engines, got the nickle plated head bolts, but all 1927 production engines got them.

I have two 26-27 engines. One is a 1926 serial number that I am going to paint the block, head, generator mount, timing cover, and manifolds, green, but the water inlet, water outlet, coil box, valve cover, generator and starter, will be black. I will use the nickle plated appropriate hardware. The other engine, a late 1927 vaporizer block engine (without the throttle rod hole punched between cylinders 2 and 3), I plan to paint all green (except for the normal coil box, generator and starter) and using the appropriate nickle plated hardware.

My question to those interested owners, especially 1926-27 owners, What is your belief and preference? Green, Black, or unpainted (maybe sprayed with a clear sealer to preserve the natural cast iron surface?

[Joe Bell]

I figured the green was from one factory of Ford, I have seen a lot of 26-7 engines black and they where originals, there has only been a few green ones that where originals and one was a 24 Canadian engine I know was original from bolt patterns, shims, gaskets. So I do not know if Canada painted them first? Just my thought on tearing down many engines.

[Humblej]

My preference is green cast iron and black stamped steel. Dont go unpainted, if you like the bare cast iron look there is a grey cast iron engine paint available at the usual auto parts stores.

[Steve Jelf]

There's green, and there's green. I would go by this original engine at The Henry Ford.

Before July 27, 1926, I go with black. I know, there's a lot of debate over whether all engines were painted in the black era, but I believe some or most were. I say some or most being painted gives me permission to do the same. The "paint" was a thin Gilsonite wash that didn't last long. That's probably why so many believe that the engines were unpainted. While mixing up a batch of that stuff would be authentic, I want the paint on my engines to last. So I use Rustoleum satin black, as I do for the rest of the chassis. I once made the mistake of using glossy paint on an engine, and it looked terrible, so I covered it with satin finish. Somewhere I have an assembly line photo from about 1925 in which you can clearly see the wash that's been slopped on the engine and run down the sides, and a bare spot that's been missed. I'll post it if I can find it.

[Norman Kling]

That green in Jeff's post looks very much like the original color. Unfortunately, you need heat resistant paint. The green stuff in the spray can looks good, but someone who is very particular might not like it. To get the original color one should go to a paint store with a color sample and have it made in the original color, or do like I did and settle for what the auto parts store sells.
Norm

engine1.jpg (27.82 KiB) Viewed 3488 times

[Chris Barker]

Does the above mean that my car is Drake Green?

[Steve Jelf]

That green...looks very much like the original color.

Probably because it is the original color.

As for heat resistant paint, I've always used ordinary rattle can Rustoleum, and it's fine. The exhaust manifold gets hot enough to damage ordinary paint, but the engine doesn't.

[Norman Kling]

Sorry about the name, Steve. I saw Jelf and took too quick a glance and thought your name was Jeff! I should have been more careful. I have met you before either on a tour or at Bakersfield Swap meet.
Norm

[Steve Jelf]

I'd like to meet Jeff. He must look a lot like me. People have been getting us mixed up for as long as I can remember.

I haven't been to any tours out that way yet, but I have been to the Bakersfield meet, so that was probably it.

[jab35]

Chris: Beautiful Coupe. Coupe color for '26-'27 in the States was 'Channel Green' and yours appears to me to be that color. Drake Green is slightly different, perhaps the engine color is Drake, but I've also heard 'Moleskin" as an engine color for the improved T engines. There have been numerous postings on these and other Model T colors, including images showing some original color chips on this forum. Its difficult to gauge the actual color from a picture of any original paint chip, tho many modern paints claim to be formulated to match the originals. jb

[ModelTWoods]

What do ya' think about this Olive Green high temperature engine paint? Looks more Olive than the regular Model A Ford green. I just ordered 4 rattle cans of it.

[Steve Jelf]

I think it's quite different from what Ford used on 1927 engines.

[Susanne]

I've always gone with the green on the Henry Ford Ford cutaway motor... the olive above is close, so I might go with that, but it would be cool to find a modern color code for the one on the cutaway.

The other thing to remember is Pyroxylin paint (at least the surviving examples I've been fortunate enough to see) was NOT high gloss like Japanned Black Enamel, but somewhat satiny. I think you'd almost have to experiment with small amounts of a deglosser in your paint to get it. IMO it's a really pretty finish.

[Steve Jelf]

Rustoleum's Army Green looks like a good match to the correct 1927 engine color.

Unfortunately I can't get Rustoleum's unhelpful website to tell me if it's available in the proper satin finish. I've sent an email inquiry. We'll see.

[ModelTWoods]

That green...looks very much like the original color.

Probably because it is the original color.

As for heat resistant paint, I've always used ordinary rattle can Rustoleum, and it's fine. The exhaust manifold gets hot enough to damage ordinary paint, but the engine doesn't.

Steve, My Dad and I used Rustoleum rattle can paint on the engine in my Grandfather's 27 coupe and the paint on the head cracked and blistered, unmercifully. Looked like crap.

[BLB27]

I have a question for Norm Kling. What would you call the color shown in your Nov.3 (9:17 pm) post? I have a Jan. 1927 couple which has a engine color that looks like what you are showing. I purchased it in 1954 so of course it could have been repainted.

[Steve Jelf]

Terry, I'm very surprised by that. Both my engines are painted with satin black Rustoleum, and it's fine. The runabout has been to Detroit and back a couple of times, and the engine paint has survived intact.

A little rust around the bolts from rain getting in, but the paint is fine.

[Steve Jelf]

It occurs to me that rather than finding a paint of the right color it might be easier to find a chip that matches that original engine above and have a paint store mix a quart of the right color for you.

[Mark Osterman]

I also use satin black. When gloss is used it shows every single little pit in the metal. Satin gives a nice sheen.

[Susanne]

What Steve said. If I lived closer to THF, Betcha that's what I'd do. And then I'd post the formula so everyone had it.

[Susanne]

I was playing with this for a while as well - a pint can of rustoleum black, mix in a SMALL amount of brown (like a dribble), cut it with reducer, mixing them to make a thin coat of "fake" gilsonite for the early engines - since Gilsonite (eg Asphalt) has a brownish tinge, straight black wouldn't look quite right, and "normal" paint is too thick. Once I had it, I was going to use clear enamel to "seal" it (as it, like the original, would be thin). Someday I'll figure it out... I hope!

[StevenIngham]

We used a product called "Stove Black" to repaint old pot belled stoves. It has a nice satin finish and can be touched up easily. It even covered minor rust. If it is still available, I wonder if it would work on a T engine?

[BLB27]

Is the color shown in Norm Kling's Nov. 3 post Drake Green or is blue? My 1927 coupe engine has a color that looks similar to Norm's. I have been considering it to be blue.

[Steve Jelf]

I'd call the engine color in Norm's photos blue-green, or aqua. Not close to the 1927 engine at THF.

[hah]

July 7, 1926- drake green v. July 27, 1926- faunskin v. Moleskin v. Olive green v serial number...I'm soooooo confused... wtf ...lololol

[John Warren]

On Dad's engine, I just used Gray, looks ok.