MTFCA Forum

Hey all, I’m just trying to clear up perhaps a silly and simple question I’ve never really gotten an answer to. I’ve seen people put Gland rings in the manifold first, but I also I see some put them in the block first, which way do you think is the correct way? Does it matter which one they go in first? Thanks for your thoughts.

I've always put them in the block with the ring, then "wiggled" the manifolds into place... For me, this was easier than the other way (and I have to be careful as my winfield manifold is aluminum), but either way will work. Just depends on what you're used to.

Poisonnally I prefer this type...IF you can even find them. Bit pricey, but I find them to really work well.
Snyders still might.."T-3063-CR"...around $28 a set.
Couldn't find them at Langs.

Thanks for both of your input!

The manifold rings in the Ford bags are supplied by Fuel Tank and Radiator Service in Queensland, Australia. The bag is misleading, stating 'Made in USA', unless you believe they are made in USA, shipped to Australia for distribution by FTRS, and then repackaged in USA. Do you guys have laws against misleading packaging?

They are an excellent product. There is enough material in the rings to be able to hand file a lead in taper to allow slightly bent manifolds to still be able to be fitted properly. Their robust construction means they can be re-used.

Allan from down under.

Just for reference, these are what original Ford NOS units look like.

Maybe the bag is Made in USA

Ultra South Australia

I hang mine from the sleeves that are installed in the block. I also "glue" them in place with a dab of grease, just to keep them from getting displaced by the slightest bump. Yup, the grease makes some smoke on a first start, till it burns off. But, what's the fun if you don't have a little smoke?

Tighten the clamps down very gradually, alternating from one clamp to the next in repeated steps, so as to pull the manifolds down evenly.

Great info, thanks for the pictures! I will put them in the block first.

I fully agree with the method of installation, and that is the way I have always done it. But, I have always wondered while putting on the rings which side is in and which side is out. The rings have a slight opening with a asbestos type of material inside. The opening is not in the middle but on one side, and after it is compressed the opening disappears, but, which side should it be facing at time of installation, towards the block or towards the manifold, or, does it make any difference? Or, am I just getting too picky on a subject that is irrelevant? Just a nother stupid question. Frank

Hey Frank!
That's just but one of several reasons I like the "all inclusive" copper rings I posted pics of up above. Just stick 'em in the block and go! Very easy, and they seal absolutely perfectly. To me, this is a case of "you get what you pay for". Good quality and good service.

Sarikatime wrote: ↑

Tue Nov 17, 2020 8:47 am

I fully agree with the method of installation, and that is the way I have always done it. But, I have always wondered while putting on the rings which side is in and which side is out. The rings have a slight opening with a asbestos type of material inside. The opening is not in the middle but on one side, and after it is compressed the opening disappears, but, which side should it be facing at time of installation, towards the block or towards the manifold, or, does it make any difference? Or, am I just getting too picky on a subject that is irrelevant? Just a nother stupid question. Frank

I put the gap on the block side.

Another vote for the Aussie rings. They're the best I've used.

Starting with a straight exhaust manifold. I install the nuts and keepers on the studs or if using bolts install them on the bolts and tighten just enough to keep from falling off. Then install the glands into the block. Next, the copper rings with the gap toward the block. Then I place the exhaust manifold in place, and turn the two outside keepers to a position which will keep it in place but allow me to place the intake manifold. Then I rotate the two middle keepers into place and tighten enough to hold both manifolds from falling off but not completely tight. Next rotate the two outside keepers to the proper position and with all keepers straight across I start tightening a bit from the center to the ends and go back to the center to the ends. I use a 10 inch wrench and do not turn as far as I could but enough to seat everything. After the engine is warmed up, I tighten again to about 30 ft lbs or with experience tight enough to seat everything but not so tight as to twist anything off. I do this same way as I do head bolts. After driving the car I check tightness each time I drive until it stays at the desired torque. Then leave it alone until next time I need to remove it.
Norm

What Tim and Allan said!. I have never understood why the Ford style rings are made out of mild steel and not a solid stainless ring. Eventually the mild steel oxidizes, warps and burns away. The ring rolled from strip may be "original" but it simply does not hold up well in an engine that sees more than occasional use. As Allan said, chamfering the edges of the rings helps tremendously in getting the exhaust manifold on.

I highly recommend the one piece copper rings- they are a little more $$, but they will outlast the two piece ones.

My daughter and I were test fitting an exhaust manifold on a block last weekend and started measuring port to port distances as we were having difficulty getting a new exhaust manifold to fit on a block. We measured several new manifolds and 3-4 blocks and saw variations of up to +/- .030" on both the blocks and manifolds. Yes, the blocks measured differently! I'm guessing heat cycles over the years affect the blocks as well as manifolds.

Guess my point is that seeing perfect alignment between an exhaust manifold and a block is pretty much a moving target.

Dan, the new manifolds vary a bit as well. The thickness of the one piece copper glands allows them to be tweaked to accommodate these differences too.

Allan from down under.