'23-5 top irons question

[JIvers]

Making metal repairs on a set that suffered abuse. Presently, every piece presents a different angle between top and sides. Specs. (drawings) that have been posted indicate that the angle of each of the three parts, of a side, should be 90 degrees. Yet, pictures I see of installed tops suggest the angle may be more acute on the two rearward pieces. Optical illusion in the bent eyes of a little old bent man?

[Humblej]

Optical illusion. When the top is folded down, the top irons all stack in a line, that will not happen if the irons and bows are not at the same angles. Since some irons go somewhat vertical and some go somewhat horizontal, the width of each iron must be pretty much constant and the same as all the other irons to all line up when in the folded position.

[Original Smith]

The top irons you refer to are unique to 1925's. The bolt to the striker plates for the front doors on roadsters. I can't help your for a touring, because I don't own one.

[JIvers]

Thanks Larry for all the '25 PU info I've learned from you over time--especially the wood specs for the PU bed you sent me. Tearing down to bare frame, I failed to record the placement of the tail light bracket. How far left of center did you place yours? Also distance of bed setback from the rear seat panel is unknown to me as my bed had once been removed for rail replacement and reinstalled kissing the seat panel which must be wrong.

Thanks Jeff for the added qualification of your first answer. If my side panels with top hardware were in place, a cross measurement could have provided the answer. Largely rusted out along the lower edges, they are benched, undergoing extensive metal work. Your observations seem astute--90 degrees it is! Because of added metal to the inside to strengthen mig repair of tears at the bends, it would be difficult to later readjust the angle.

[Original Smith]

I'll try to get you that information. Many original beds had the center strip removed when they were converted into trailers. Keep bugging me, and I'll get that information for you. I'm in the middle of a big project on that car now that can't wait.

[Original Smith]

The spacing for the taillight bracket in 8 1/4", and halfway down on the crosspiece. That cross piece probably isn't on your bed if it's been converted to a trailer. If it is, the two top holes for the taillight bracket are already in it. There are two rivets holding it on, on each side. The holes should be in your bed now.
I had to have mine made from an original, as it had been removed. All the bends for this piece face the rear. This piece will automatically line up the bed to the back of the body which is only 1/4". I know I have photos of a bunch of my friends helping me install the bed. I'll see if I can locate them.

[Original Smith]

I just found some photos of that brace or L bracket. I just had my computer switched from windows 8 to windows 10, so I'm not too familiar with what's going on now. As you can see the two left holes are for the taillight bracket. You can use your taillight bracket to locate the others. The two holes to the right of the taillight bracket are for holding the bed to the rear sill of the body. As I recall those bolts are all 2 1/4" carriage bolts, and aren't easy to find these days. If I can be of more help, just let me know.

[Original Smith]

I didn't read my post carefully enough. The 8 1/4" measurement I gave is from the left edge of the brace to the the center of the left upper hole for the taillight bracket.

[JIvers]

Larry, Your commentary presently posted will be printed and placed in the Original Smith folder which, after many years, is becoming quite full! Appreciate very much all you've lent to my project. At one time I faltered and offered this truck for sale. Glad no one took me up on it. Now with all things altered by covid, many things that consumed my time are diminished and every day I approach the restoration as a large part of my activity and the only thing among homestead work that I truly am enjoying, Seemingly, I'm over invested. And still facing the expense of top and upholstery. But--Gonna' get this thing finished!
Incidently, I traced this PU to another owner before John Callin. Rich Davidson, of Agoura hills, reports he purchased it in 1996 from someone who's name was not given but had bought it at auction in the San Fernando Valley, along with a 29 panel truck. Both are said to have been purchased new by the Filipino Newspaper, in LA, which explains why my bed metal is in perfect condition--soft cargo. This prompts another question. I've learned that Ford began assembling T's in Los Angeles in 1914. I have to wonder if this truck bed would have been floored with eastern yellow pine. In 1925, high quality old growth douglas fir and and ponderosa pine were cheaply available in the west. (Anyone care to opine?)

[Original Smith]

I know Blue Lake is a long ways from Los Angeles, but I'm here to help with pictures and data. I built my p/u from original parts, so I was able to become knowledgeable on just about everything. The project took seven years, and no two parts came from the same car. My pickup box was a rust free original too, but had been converted into a trailer at some point, therefore, I had to have the cross piece duplicated that is pictured above. The wood for the bed is Southern Yellow pine. Gator Gould got me mine, but I discovered recently a commercial lumber yard downtown has it, and is used for scaffolding. You have to buy 4/4 stock, as the correct thickness is 13/16"