MTFCA Forum

Yesterday 12/12, Ignacio Valdes started a post entitled "Drilling Steel?". Ignacio eventually solved his problem of difficulty in drilling steel, apparently by purchase of what was obviously a very high quality set of "Milwaukee" drill bits. Within that same post, Stan Howe posted what i consider some very valuable information concerning a brand of drill bits (Norseman) that he said are the best he's ever owned! I thought that such information was worthy of a this separate post. First of all, the Norseman brand is U.S.A. made, and I would assume that the Milwaukee brand must be U.S.A. made as well, as Ignacio indicated a huge difference in the performance with those drill bits.

The reason I thought to repeat in a separate post the information developed by Ignacio and Stan Howe is very worthy of a separate post, plus a little bit that I might add that I feel is important and appropriate here:

First of all, I brought up the web site of the Norseman Company that Stan mentioned, and it contains some very good information that talks about probably one of the most important things I actually learned (and actually RETAINED) from high school shop class in the 1950's! Mr. Murray, was extremely emphatic when he taught us how to purchase good quality drill bits. He said words to the effect that if you look at the information stamped into the shank of a drill bit, to ignore markings that might appear like, coated, or premium, magnum, tungsten, carbide, etc, etc, and if there was not an "HS" or an "HSS" stamped on the drill,,,,,"DON'T BUY IT!) That stands for "HIGH SPEED STEEL", which is the most important thing about the quality of a drill bit. And what I particularly noted on the Norseman website was that they also stressed the importance of "high speed steel", and I was particularly gratified to note that some things haven't changed in sixty plus years since my high school machine shop days! Anyway, FWIW, and thanks Ignacio & Stan for bringing this up, .....harold

Steve - YUP! Not only did I take a typing class in high school in 1958, but I think as far as education, that's the only thing I ever insisted on with my four boys. I made them all take typing, because I was pretty sure that what was originally called "the standard keyboard" was going to "survive" in the "computer age", and that's one of the few things I've ever been right about concerning education. Nowadays of course, it's called the "QWERTY" keyboard, but it did, indeed, survive. I remember the boys complaining to me that it was "all girls" in that class, but frankly, it was that way for me too in the '50's, and I never considered it a problem!

One important thing to know about using a drill chuck is to tighten all 3 of the jaws and the drill bit won't spin in the chuck, it was years of frustration before I figured that out. Just my 2 cents worth.

Dennis Prince wrote: ↑

Sun Dec 13, 2020 11:50 pm

One important thing to know about using a drill chuck is to tighten all 3 of the jaws and the drill bit won't spin in the chuck, it was years of frustration before I figured that out. Just my 2 cents worth.

I agree. Simple as it seems to us adults, I remember when I was a young man, yeah it's been a while, my late dad telling and showing me that. I, of course being smarter than he, thought he was full of it. Later I figured out he was right, about a lot of other things he told me as well.
Then again, how many still own drills with keyed chucks? Are the good drills still supplied with keyed chucks?

Mark Twain wrote words to the effect that when he was 17 he couldn't believe how ignorant his father was but that by time he was 22 it amazed him how much his old man had learned. In the late 50's/early 60's in my junior high school all the boys had to take a semester of home economics while all the girls did a semester in shop classes. We all benefitted. My handwriting was atrocious so I took typing high high school, surrounded by all the girls. What was so bad about that!!!!!! Yes, there are still many drill motors available with keyed chucks as are most drill presses. I like quick-change chucks for wood working and around the house, prefer keyed chucks when drilling steel or concrete or stone.

Tommy Coffey, where are you in WNC? I am in Brevard, drop me a line. Several active T'ers in the area.

Tom Loftfield
Brevard, NC
LOFTFJELD@GMAIL.COM

Dennis Prince wrote: ↑

Sun Dec 13, 2020 11:50 pm

One important thing to know about using a drill chuck is to tighten all 3 of the jaws and the drill bit won't spin in the chuck, it was years of frustration before I figured that out. Just my 2 cents worth.

How do you not tighten all 3 jaws? They all work in unison.

Jerry VanOoteghem wrote: ↑

Mon Dec 14, 2020 8:26 am

Dennis Prince wrote: ↑

Sun Dec 13, 2020 11:50 pm

One important thing to know about using a drill chuck is to tighten all 3 of the jaws and the drill bit won't spin in the chuck, it was years of frustration before I figured that out. Just my 2 cents worth.

How do you not tighten all 3 jaws? They all work in unison.

Tighten with the key in each of the three holes in the chuck. Using just one hole can apply uneven pressure on the bit. I learned that lesson decades ago and always use that method.

2nighthawks wrote: ↑

Sun Dec 13, 2020 10:36 pm

I remember the boys complaining to me that it was "all girls" in that class, but frankly, it was that way for me too in the '50's, and I never considered it a problem!

I figured out, going into my Junior year of high school, that being in a class of all girls was a really, really good thing.

Having had that epiphany, I took typing and home economics and absolutely loved the doting that I received from the pretiest girls in school.

Three things about drill bits.
1) in general steel cutting drill bits will have more turns per inch than wood.
2) I bought a grind wheel with the only purpose to keep drill bits sharp.
3) Change the tip of the bit, the harder the material, the bigger the angle (flatter tip).
Vern

I bought a Drill Doctor second hand at an estate sale.

It's one of the most useful tools in my shop.

I got a drill Doctor the same way. The only issue with mine is, I think it has the wrong stone. Don't like the finish on the tips. As it wears some is getting better, but need to find one with finer grit.
Took typing also. I think at the time it was a required class for some clusters, like drafting. Went from a D in high school typing to A in collage typing. That one I think WAS the instructor teaching methods not the class. Also took a cooking class (I was not lone guy in the class, most of us could cook already), if the girls want to impress the guys with their cooking skills, boy did they loose out on that one! LOL Made you wonder if they had ever seen the inside of a kitchen.
I started out in AG/FFA classes but switched to Drafting for my sophomore year. The one thing that I also remember from the shop class, was to use all 3 holes when chucking up a drill and to check the hoses on your torch before using it (but that is another story).

I've been using all three holes in a drill chuck for 60 years after I was shown that trick by a local weldor/blacksmith. If you notice, the key can be tightened just a bit more in each hole. Try it Jerry, you'll like it. Dave

D Stroud wrote: ↑

Mon Dec 14, 2020 4:23 pm

I've been using all three holes in a drill chuck for 60 years after I was shown that trick by a local weldor/blacksmith. If you notice, the key can be tightened just a bit more in each hole. Try it Jerry, you'll like it. Dave

I will try it, but I've got to admit, I don't really have much trouble with drills slipping in the chuck. Can't say it never happens though, so I'll keep it in mind.

(Actually happens a bunch with my cheapskate Black & Decker cordless drill with the keyless chuck. You know, the one that's too small for a lomax like me to get my fat hands around. I solved that by buying an equally cheapskate set of hex shank drill bits. I use them mostly for wood, and while they're not well made/sharpened, I can resharpen them to make them work.)

I just finished reworking my tandem axle car hauler.I had to drill over 150 1/4 holes. I went to the local hardware and bought a Dewalt bit. It broke after the first use,the tip broke off.I didn't even get any of the hole drilled,it just broke.Store replaced it.Second bit made it to the second hole and just flew all to heck. I took it back and said look,apparently I did something wrong or these things are a joke.At almost 8 bucks,it shoulda worked better.They refunded the money and I bought a Irwin cobalt bit. It drilled at least 150 holes thru 1 inch deck board and 3/16 angle iron floor crossmembers.And it is STILL sharp1

I have to agree, the Cobalt bits that have come on the market in recent years are the cat's pyamas, they stay much sharper for longer than other materials.
Of course you get what you pay for, some really cheap "cobalt" bits are the same crap as the so called Titanium bits, just cheap a** metal with a fancy color coating...
But a good quality Cobalt bit will outlast all others