Tubes ad Tires

[DIYer]

I am still working my way through my 1926 T Coupe and I'm finding that there are many things either I don't understand or perhaps I am only confusing myself when it comes to my T. An example of something that I may be over-thinking is what I found when I was looking into safely storing my T.

In the 1926 FORD MANUAL (found at https://www.mtfca.com/books/ford-manual/) I found a question that sounded like what I wanted to do that read "What should be done when the Car is stored?" The answer for this question (Answer No. 111) surprised me and I would be surprised if anyone does every step listed. If I am wrong, please educate me as I do wish to understand. The answer to the question reads "Drain the water from the radiator, and then put in about a quart of denatured alcohol to prevent freezing of any water that may possibly remain. Remove cylinder head and clean out any carbon deposits in combustion chamber. Draw off all the gasoline. Drain the dirty oil from the crank case and flush the crank case as directed in Answer No. 102. Refill the crank case with fresh oil and run the engine enough to cover the different parts with oil. Remove the tires and store them away. Wash the car, and if possible, cover the body with a sheet of muslin to protect the finish."
Obviously, this has little to do with my Subject heading except to show that not everythi9ng appears to be cut and dried to me. I am uncertain that anyone would (or need to) remove the head and clean carbon from the head and cylinders off the carbon every winter but obviously were it necessary it would not be that difficult.

After all that, I come to my question(s). All five tires are weather cracked with plenty of tread and need replacement. I am at a loss when it comes to tires and tubes to mount on my wire wheels. Were the car more familiar to me e.g., a 1968 Chevrolet Impala I would not be so confused. Should I use a standard tube with rubber valve stems or tubes with metal stems? Are the tubes with metal stems for wire wheels or wooden spoked wheels? Next comes a more personal consideration; shall I purchase four or five tires? Should they be the $99.00 tires? Should they be top of the line radials? Should they be more in the middle of the road? Perhaps I should wait on the more expensive tires until after I have the T painted. I am open to hear your suggestions. Perhaps someone may have a new thought to consider.

[Jeepbone1]

I’m running the “cheap” Universal brand tires, rubber stem tubes and flaps on my speedster. Probably have over 3000 miles on them and they still have their tits from the mold. Little wear showing and they run true. Wearing evenly too. That also has a lot to do with proper alignment of the front and rear end. They have a nice tread to them too. Granted I am using the 19” tire on 19” 1930’s chevy wire wheels adapted to ford hubs but it isn’t much different. The 21” is pretty much the same tire and wouldn’t hesitate buying them again or using them on my next project. Here are the links below for tires, tubes and flaps. Don’t forget the flaps! I would go ahead and get 5. Like I said before, these are the “cheap” tires but I have nothing bad to say about the quality and how they have worn. Plus the price is pretty fair considering the clincher version is almost $200 per tire. Mounting them was fairly painless too. Depending on how hard your old tires are, all five could be swapped out in an afternoon with little more than two tire irons and some baby powder. Mine took a little longer since my tires were so old and dry I had to cut them off. God luck! Just do it.

My 2¢
Brad

Tires: https://www.universaltire.com/universal ... kwall.html

Tubes: https://www.universaltire.com/a-21-bias ... -stem.html

Flaps: https://www.universaltire.com/21-x-5-flap.html

[Allan]

Glen, first, 21" wire wheels do not use flaps. There is a narrow rubber band which goes in the rim as a liner in case there are any rough spots due to rust/spoke end issues. Flaps are used in split rims.
There are some rubbish tyres around, especially in the clinchers. I would stump up the cash for the best I could find. You have seen the results of buying cheap tyres. They should not crack up if they are made with quality materials. At least look for USA made tyres, and complain like mad if they do not provide an acceptable service life.
Check out the offerings from Blockley tyres on their website. They have quality offerings for 21" wheels.

Allan from down under.

[TWrenn]

For what driving you are probably doing like most of us, and at these slow speeds, the $99 tire will be fine.
Also, you said "weather checking"...just HOW BAD is the checking? These tire casings are as tough as nails frankly,
you can get many more miles out of them with them looking "cosmetically horrible" than you think. Luckily, the
26/27s use the "balloon tires" which not only mount easier, but sure do ride a lot better! Just don't make the mistake
of putting too much air in them! They don't need the 50-60lbs. that the good ol' clinchers do! 35 lbs. is plenty.

And I disagree about the crazy idea of taking the head off every "storage"...for one thing, maybe the book is thinking
long-term storage, rather than annually. The pistons aren't gonna get carboned up that bad in one season I would think.
I'm willing to bet 75% of the currently running Ts haven't had their heads pulled for the sake of piston cleaning for years.
The alcohol in the drained system isn't too bad of an idea, unless of course you're running anti-freeze anyway, I think this
pertained to the rare few that only run pure water.

[Oldav8tor]

I have a '17 Touring with wooden spoked wheels / clincher tires.
•I run antifreeze year-around so no need to drain the radiator
•I add stabil to the fuel in the tank or drain the tank. No problem with either approach.
•I turn off the fuel and run the engine until the engine quits - no gunk in the carb
•I change the oil
•I raise the car off the floor with four floor jacks so that the tires don't take a set.
•I leave the top up & cover the car with old bed sheets to keep the dust off somewhat
•Thru the winter I periodically attach a smart charger to the battery to keep it up.
•I can't guarantee it helps but I'll also crank the engine over a few times periodically. The theory is that doing so will spread some oil around internally. Be sure the mag / battery switch is in the off position.
Following these procedures my car starts right up in the spring.

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I've put 3500 miles on Universal T-drivers and still have plenty of tread. I used rubber stemmed tubes but learned the hard way that you have to grind some relief in the tire bead to prevent damage to the stems....I suspect that would not be a problem with brass stems. Your tires should not present such a problem so I leave such advice to others.

[Steve Jelf]

Metal stem 21" tubes cost about $41. Rubber stem 21" tubes are about $25. If you're buying for four wheels and a spare that's a difference of $80. I buy rubber stem tubes, cut off the stems, and install T-era metal stems.

http://dauntlessgeezer.com/DG110.html

[Art M]

Steve, where are the metal replacement tube stems sold and how are they installed on the tube. Are any special tools required. Art Mirtes

[Allan]

Art, the metal replacement stems are old time originals saved from long gone tubes. The ones to fit T wheels are smaller in diameter than most. The rubbish rubber stemmed tubes foisted on us today has meant that those in the know are on the lookout for stems at swapmeets, flea markets etc, so there is a new demand for them. You just have to join the throng hunting them down wherever they may be.

Allan from down under.

[TWrenn]

Art: try this link. Brass stem, need bridge washer and nut also. Think they're below the stem on the same page.

https://www.modeltford.com/item/ST3-3/8.aspx

[Steve Jelf]

The ones to fit T wheels are smaller in diameter than most.

I disagree partly. Yes, the Schrader 777 used by Ford and the slightly longer 888 are smaller in diameter (about 3/8") than the more common 724 and 725 (about 1/2"), but you can use either. I use the 724 and 725 because I happened to have the dust covers to fit them. The new metal stem tubes use the larger size. I don't know why. The new metal stem in Tim's link must be vulcanized to the tube. That's not necessary with the originals. As Allan says, you have to find them at meets, auctions, or online sales. There are no repos. But many millions were made, so they are around. For how to install see my link above. No exotic tools needed.

[Steve Jelf]

I should add that the new bridge washers can only be used on new metal stem tubes or the new vulcanized stems. They are no good for original stems. For those you want original washers.

[Allan]

Steve raises an interesting point about the new metal stem replacements. If they have to be vulcanised onto the tube, who today has the tools for this? Do they vulcanise well onto today's tubes? Or are they stick-on types like the rubber stem replacements? No matter what, tho old time originals work best.

Allan from down under.

[Steve Jelf]

Yes, Lang's catalogue says vulcanize.

[dmdeaton]

Rubber stem tubes and Universal 21's for me. Oh yea, and a spare.

[Adam]

FYI... The rubber stem “Hartford” brand tubes available from Universal and some of the T vendors for the last couple years are of excellent quality. I’ve probably installed around 30 of them and haven’t had any complaints.

[Steve Jelf]

I'll agree with Adam that the Chinese Hartford tubes are fine. They have done well for me. I am avoiding the Indian Custom Classics. I had one that split seven times before I realized that was happening and quit trying to patch it. I believe it was Allan who told us there was a run of Custom Classics that were folded before they had cooled sufficiently and were prone to splitting. Just in case any of those are still in the supply chain I'm staying away from them. Now that I think about it, that may have been the reason for the blowout that cost me a tire. I searched all along both sides of the road where it happened, and never did find that tire.

[TWrenn]

I agree with Danny Deaton...rubber stem tubes all the way...clincher or even my balloon tires. I'll stir up the pot
here by asking why would anyone want to bother with those metal stems in the first place. Why do we think they
invented the rubber stem tubes....

[Allan]

Tim, I doubt the rubber valve stems are more expensive to manufacture and fit than the three piece metal stem assemblies they superseded. Many times improvements are made for manufacturing efficiency and cost reductions, not because of any failings of the previous operation.
Vulcanising/cementing replacement rubber stems is also fraught with some difficulty due to incompatibility of the various rubber compounds/synthetics/quality used in today's tubes. When a rubber valve stem cracks/perishes, usually at the base, replacing it with an old style metal stem is something anyone can do, with little in the way of equipment, and with quite satisfactory results service wise.

There is nothing quite so satisfying as rendering an older, better quality tube fit for service again by resorting to proven old technology, rather than replacing it with Chinese products.

Others may see it differently.
Allan from down under.