MTFCA Forum

How are the springs on the throttle and spark rod removed, what holds them in place ? I wanted to remove the two rods so I can clean and remove the rust them, replacing the springs and cups possibly replacing the two rods. To remove the rods I think I need to remove the 2 levers by drilling out the pins ? Is it advisable to do this, the appear to work OK but are pretty grungy looking.

Better to clean them in place. Then paint, to make em look good under the hood.

Removing the column rods means removing the cluster from the upper quandrant , completely disassemble the steering column.

To remove the rods, follow instructions in Ford Service , Chapter XXV.

It is possible to drive the arm pins out with a small punch. If you drill them the holes may become enlarged. The spring cups cover some similar pins that also can be pulled out.
Rich

If you remove the round headed riveted pins, after restoration and during reassembly, you will never be able to get them to look original again. Yes you will be able to put it all back together using long round headed slotted machines screw, nutted or bradded on the bottom, but the original round headed rivets will be a thing of the past. Don’t ask me how I know. Jim Patrick

PS. It would be great if someone would develop a fastener for this purpose with round headed male and female shafts that slides into each side and secures in the center of the column. Something like the photo I am posting only without the Allen wrench hole.

Restoration Supply Co. has a decent stock of "threaded" rivets - I've used them.

"Yes you will be able to put it all back together using long round headed slotted machines screw, nutted or bradded on the bottom, but the original round headed rivets will be a thing of the past."

Jim, with all due respect, anything other than solid rivets or solid taper pins at the assembly of the column tube, quadrant, and steering case won't give the necessary strength and security to this important spot. Stay with Ford fastener design.

Using the vendor style rivets is easy, they work, and look like factory.

New rivet along side a removed original New replaced rivets, finished job View of original rivets on unrestored column for comparison/b]

Thanks for all of the great responses to my questions. Dan Treace pointed out Chapter XXV in the service manual, I should have looked there first as the
procedure there is fully explained. For some reason when I run into a problem I go to the forum before looking in the service manual.
Steve Tomaso's info about threaded rivets was helpful, I didn't know there was such a thing. Mario Brossard posted a link to Royce Peterson's Ford Fix
site. The description there is very easy to understand. I have been on Ford Fix in the past but didn't think of it this time.
All of the hints and suggestion from the guys on this forum were helpful and fully appreciated.

Note this. Very important! Depending on the year of your car, the steering box will have either a round base where it is riveted to the column or a diamond shape base. The rivets on the older round base box must be in good condition and tightly fastened, because they are all that keeps your steering working. If they should break off or fall out, you will go in the direction the wheels point and be unable to steer. The diamond shape is still important to keep tight, however the shape will keep it from turning in the column and is much safer.
Norm

Now that I have my steering column apart I found that one of the pins that the steering case gears ride on is loose. It falls out.
Can this be safely repaired or do I need to replace the steering shaft. The service manual recommends to replace the shaft.

Replace the shaft.
.

One thing you failed to mention is the year of your car. Early v/s late is different, but similar. Whatever the year, drive the rivets out from the bottom carefully. SAVE the originals, because you can't buy new rivets with the same shape head. When you obtain the new rivets, you can reshape the heads to the exact size of the originals before installation. How do I know? I've done it.

Bill, I reckon you are lucky that one of your pins was loose. They can be very tightly rusted in. It is my belief they were never a tight/drive in fit. The retaining rings are spring loaded, and the pins are held captive in the recess in the ring. At best they just pull out. At worst, they may require drilling out. None of this applies to the earlier assemblies with the pinned on, solid retaining rings.

Allan from down under.

To Allan from down under
I was a bit confused by your reply, but then decided you were talking about the pins in the throttle and spark rods. I am talking about the pins in the gear case. They are the three pins, the steering gears ride on.

Gotcha Bill. I was responding to your first post. If a planetary gear pin on the shaft is loose, the shaft is best replaced.

Allan from down under.

Thanks to all who replied with suggestions and observations. Sounds like I should replace the steering shaft, that's what I expected to hear. I think I will buy the repro from Lang,s with the kit to convert to 5:1 ratio, unless there is some reason I should not do this.

Bill,the new gears will have to get to know your existing gearcase. I would stick with the set-up you have rather than introduce unknown elements.
Others may be able to advise of any pitfalls they have encountered.
Allan from down under.

Read the section in Ford Service about 4 to 1 change to 5 to 1. Dan

I read the service manual section on steering gear ratios, it sounds to me like if you use the correct parts it will work, But then being is someone with 0 experience, I would give way to experience every time. Given that I need to replace the steering column shaft because of a loose pinion pin and the shaft for 4:1 ratio is not being reproduced, I guess I need to look for a used shaft. If I can't find a used shaft in good condition, then I might have to resort to repairing the one I have or replacing it with the 5:1 shaft and gears. Does that sound like a good plan?